TheSamba.com :: View topic - E-brake for '58 with big nut rear end? I searched.

Tue Mar 16, 2010 5:49 pm

ok so i have a big nut in my 58 what ebrake cables do i need yes i did a search with no luck

Tue Mar 16, 2010 6:09 pm

IRC you need 64-67 E cables so they will fit the backing plate hardware of the big nut trans, HOWEVER you will need to modify (shorten) the cables to fit the fronf E brake handle.

Tue Mar 16, 2010 6:21 pm

and how is that done

Tue Mar 16, 2010 6:27 pm

With a pair of cable cutters and some cable u-clamps from the hardware store, I think would do the trick.

Tue Mar 16, 2010 6:32 pm

sounds kinda chincy

Tue Mar 16, 2010 6:35 pm

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search..._chars=200

Tue Mar 16, 2010 11:20 pm

Do a search for "emergency brake cables" in the forum: I have a thread in there on how to modify the later model rear brake plate so you can use the earlier emergency brake cable. It is easy to do. Put the old brake plate next to a newer one and you will see what you have to do.

Wed Mar 17, 2010 5:09 am

I modified the 58 ebrake cable to fit the later backing plates.

Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:44 am

^^^ That looks like the best/easiest way to get this done. I like Cameron's idea, too. I will be doing this soon and have already bought new later cables since that was the only way I knew. Guess they will just go into the spare parts box now.

Going back to the idea of shortening the cable, does anyone know how much has to be cut off? I just figured that, for future reference, an actual length in inches (cm ?) should be posted. It would come in handy for a future search if someone is in a pinch for time/lack of proper parts.

Wed Mar 17, 2010 12:09 pm

I have done this three times, I did my cables 11 5/8" shorter, at least thats what my notes say. I also do my adapters in the backing plates
2 1/2"

Wed Mar 17, 2010 12:46 pm

Since it is easy to do, I think that fixing the brake plate so it looks like the older one is the way to go. The four spot welds holding the platform on the outside of the brake plate (the stop for the cable's housing) have to be ground down so it can be removed, the hole in the plate lengthened (look at the hole in the older brake plate), the axle end of the hole bent to the outside, then a hole drilled in the brake plate where a small bolt and nut will hold the cable stop that you use from the old brake plate in place. This method allows you to use the old style (shorter) emergency brake cables and it keeps the stock look.
Don't splice the cables.

Wed Mar 17, 2010 12:50 pm

thanks guys this is the must usefull info yet

if it came down to splicing the cables id stay with my tire chock method

Wed Mar 17, 2010 2:23 pm

sub-hatchtim wrote: thanks guys this is the must usefull info yet

if it came down to splicing the cables id stay with my tire chock method

Tire chocks dont help when you are driving and you blow a wheel cylinder going down a hill, and you have no ebrake to pull on and you almost flip your 23 window, not that i am talking from my past expierence.

Wed Mar 17, 2010 2:27 pm

I like to approach these adaptations with an eye toward future repairs. If I am on the road and have to fix something, what can I do now to make that repair easier in the future?

I would think that Cameron's setup is tops for that issue. It just uses some extra hardware that will already be on the old cables so it's a simple (ish) swap if a cable breaks.

Jeremy's setup would be pretty simple to replicate on the roadside, too. Just need something to cut the steel housing with.

Modifying the backing plates is nice because it allows use of the later, and more readily availabe, e-brake cables.

The cable shortening kit would work in a pinch, but if I have the time, I would rather not use them. Maybe they could be handy in the emergency repair parts box under the seat, just in case.

Lastly, having the cables shortened and having the ends swedged on (or swaged) works great, but I would want to do a couple of sets so that if I break one on the road, I don't have to search out a wire rope supplier.

Great info in this thread.

Wed Mar 17, 2010 3:08 pm

dam mikee cant say ive ever had that problem

id love to have my cables swedged but cant find any one in the area to do so

and sorry but cable splicing seems dangerous these are buses not farm implaments

Wed Mar 17, 2010 4:27 pm

My method works great but I am beginning to think that I am the invisible man. :?

Wed Mar 17, 2010 5:55 pm

sub-hatchtim wrote:
id love to have my cables swedged but cant find any one in the area to do so

Have heard that some motorcycle shops can do that for you.

Wed Mar 17, 2010 6:56 pm

Campy wrote: My method works great but I am beginning to think that I am the invisible man. :?

Maybe because your method would ruin a perfectly good late backing plate. I suppose if you could weld,you could put it back.
I am still on the fence with this topic,don't know which method is best.

Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:08 pm

i havnt decided either

Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:14 pm

Campy wrote: My method works great but I am beginning to think that I am the invisible man. :?

I mentioned your method, but not your name. Sorry.