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Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:37 pm

in a 68 van. Difficult procedure or fairly self explanitory and simple? If any of you have any tips, pictures, or suggestions to make this process easier for me I would greatly appreciate it as im just sort of jumping right into this without much knowledge of what it takes to install one. Much thanks in advance.

Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:48 pm

spencer, no it's not that hard, but you need the right tools,and a Bentley manual. You need to reach behind the shroud and remove the bolt holding on the fan.Be careful not to drop the shims. That would be the hard part. The rest you can see.

Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:53 pm

Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:53 pm

Thank you sir. However as a rookie I apologize but I must ask you what a Bently manuel is.

Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:57 pm

http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Station-Wagon-Bus-Official/dp/0837600944

Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:09 pm

Wow, those videos are just what I needed. Thank you so much. Im gonna study up on the process a bit more and tackle it in the morning. I'll let ya know how I make out.

Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:21 pm

Seeing as how I have to be on the road tomorrow, I don't believe that I will have an opportunity to look at a bently manuel between now and then. Is it necessary for the successful completion of this project? I'd like to think that I can figure it out without one but perhaps I am wrong. Thoughts?

Thu Mar 18, 2010 7:29 pm

I just changed my generator. I dropped the engine to do it. I had to go drop some money, mid project, at Sears for the 36mm socket. It took me two days, I got a chance to give my engine a tune up out of the bus, clean some grease and goo out of random places, got familiar with my bus's engine, which I think is an important part of owning an aircooled rig. That is why I chose a VW for my current ride. First off, I think they are cool looking, second I can sleep in it, beat that, third, I can work on it if I just spend the time reading the two books I have ( Bentley, Muir ) and researching ( search ). The engine is pretty easy to drop and put back in. I put an ad on Craigs list in my area for someone who knows about VW engines to help me. They all said " go for it, you can do it, call me if you need..".. I was ready to pay someone 100 bucks to help me, and had a few hundred for parts I might need. But yeah, get the books, get the tools, do it yourself..

Thu Mar 18, 2010 7:56 pm

I just watched those videos and that guy makes it seem pretty self explanitory so im thinkin I can tackle this. Those videos are an amazing resource by the way. thanks again

Thu Mar 18, 2010 8:29 pm

Without watching the vids and knowing what info they give I don't want to throw out any 2 cents. Except one thing. It totally makes a different type of job by having your engine and engine compartment clean. Even a simple job while working in oily slime and dirt is miserable. Maybe an aerosol can of degreaser and a coin opp. car wash is something to consider. But then, maybe not if your engine is already clean. This will be a good opportunity to learn a lot about your engine. Which is all good.

Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:27 am

^agreeded

Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:01 pm

Well I tried and failed miserably. There isn't an above engine access door in my 68 like there is in later model bays. The back nut of the generator is on too tight and it's too cramped in there to get the leverage needed to break it loose. Any suggestions. I think I may have to pull the engine.

Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:26 pm

I was wondering when that would come. Been there and done that, by the time it was fixed it would have been easier to remove the engine and replace it. It looks like it would be easy but it is a real pain in a bus when the engine is still in.

Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:28 pm

Sounds like engine drop time, luckily it's no biggie on an early bus.

If you can get the wrench wedged in on the front nut securely turning the generator pulley with an oil filter wrench or giant channel locks can sometimes get you the leverage you need to crack it loose. Remember to turn the pulley CCW.

Fri Mar 19, 2010 2:15 pm

When I did my alternator I spent a few hours on the two lower screws where it bolts up to the dog house. There is not much room between the dog house and intake pipe. I had to call my girl over and have her start the screws for me. My hands just couldn't get down there.

Fri Mar 19, 2010 4:59 pm

If all else fails you can just refer to the manual and try it that way. Raise the shroud as far as it will go and put some wood spacers under it to hold it up. Spencer, '68 - '71's with their upright engines don't have the hatch. No need for a big hole in the roof although it would be handy.
The reason you would want to loosen the nut on the fan is that it is so munh easier when it is still on the engine. Just use the big socket and a breaker bar while you hold the generator from turning with a screwdriver like it is intended. Basic and simple. There are quite a few reasons why you want to get the gen out with the fan still on it. Just so the nut is loosened.
No way would I pull my engine and disturb all the good installation and hookups.

Fri Mar 19, 2010 6:28 pm

Desertbusman wrote: If all else fails you can just refer to the manual and try it that way. Raise the shroud as far as it will go and put some wood spacers under it to hold it up. Spencer, '68 - '71's with their upright engines don't have the hatch. No need for a big hole in the roof although it would be handy.
The reason you would want to loosen the nut on the fan is that it is so munh easier when it is still on the engine. Just use the big socket and a breaker bar while you hold the generator from turning with a screwdriver like it is intended. Basic and simple. There are quite a few reasons why you want to get the gen out with the fan still on it. Just so the nut is loosened.
No way would I pull my engine and disturb all the good installation and hookups.

And I'd drop the engine if the nut wouldn't come off. I hate doing the bent over, dark, greasy, sore back, dropped bolt, eyes on the end of your finger, bashed my head again, scratched paint, forgot something crap, and getting the shroud tucked back in and all the screws in right is a major PITA. Dropping a type 1 is easy and quick, besides there's always something else that needs tickling while it's out and the only adjustment after is the throttle cable.

You decide Spencer, I've done all 3 methods quite a few times but if you can't get the nut loose you may have to improvise.

Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:03 pm

I can see Desertbusman's point but at the time I did the same job on my 1971 bus I was building race cars, working as a machinist and as a mechanic. It was such a pain to get it off that I swore next time I would just take the engine out. You can get to both sides, see both sides, lift things straight off without having the clearance issue at the top etc. Your bus has a removable apron so it is easy. While it is out you can pull the top tins too and retorque the heads if you want.

Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:07 pm

Yes, it is so much easier to get the generator out if the engine is sitting on the ground. It's a cake walk, doesn't even compare.

Quote: at the time I did the same job on my 1971 bus I was building race cars, working as a machinist and as a mechanic. But what does this ^^have to do with anything?

Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:48 pm

Last one I did was with the engine in the bus, but I have a shop full of tools and a little experience so the nut was no issue. It all depends on your skill level, tolerance for difficult access jobs and time to spare.

Flip a coin and pick one, at least you'll have something to compare it to if you do it different the next time, once you've done them all decide for yourself :wink: As they say YMMV.
BTW you still have to pull the carb if you do it in place so the throttle adjustment applies either way.