| SGKent |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:51 pm |
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Q:
Quote: at the time I did the same job on my 1971 bus I was building race cars, working as a machinist and as a mechanic.
But what does this ^^have to do with anything?
A:
Amskeptic wrote:
I am not answering that.
Respectfully,
GoBuyABentley |
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| Desertbusman |
Fri Mar 19, 2010 11:27 pm |
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busdaddy wrote: Last one I did was with the engine in the bus,
So why did you do it that way?
Actually the nut has never been a difficulty. Before raising the shroud my breaker bar extends beyond the shroud. So I've given it a sharp whack with a piece of 2X4 while using a long handled screwdriver in the pulley/generator. The whack just to break loose the nut. And not to remove the fan, just to loosen it. And always have removed the intake manifold as the boots were due for replacement anyway. So yes, gotta' reconnect the cable and fuel line but not the oil lines or have to fight that front tin seal. Or wish I had jacks and stands more suited for engine removal. Plus not paying myself labor by the hour. :wink: |
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| brexcavator |
Sat Mar 20, 2010 8:54 am |
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| Did you ever run across a guy in Arizona/ Nevada who drove a short school bus and worked on cars? He came and pulled my engine and replaced it in about 45 minutes... Just wondering if he is still around since you are in Arizona, desertbusman?? |
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| busdaddy |
Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:08 am |
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Desertbusman wrote: busdaddy wrote: Last one I did was with the engine in the bus,
So why did you do it that way?
Wanted to try it for comparisons sake. I discovered that it works well and is the fastest if you have the tools and the 2 lower fasteners on the generator disc have hex heads and are short (at least when it has a DP manifold), if it has stuck slotted screws or you don't have a means to get the nut loose it'd be a major ordeal.
The Bentley shroud lift method is OK too if all the fasteners are in good shape and the shroud and tin aren't tweaked in any way as to make reassembly a challenge and the engine is clean enough that you can find dropped screws and clips. But you still have the added time of dismantling the thermostat system.
For a dirty mystery engine with bent up tin and stuck screws with damaged heads the drop method is still my weapon of choice. Likely also the best choice for a novice with limited tool resources who really should look at the rest of the engine from some different angles. |
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| SGKent |
Sat Mar 20, 2010 11:27 am |
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Quote: but not the oil lines or have to fight that front tin seal
funny - my bus didn't have those weird oil lines nor did I have a fight with any seals. Mermaids yes, but no seals in my bus that gave me trouble. |
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| Desertbusman |
Sat Mar 20, 2010 5:02 pm |
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When reconsidering the situation it probably would be best to pull the engine. Many of the negatives you have mentioned involved with leaving the engine in are real life difficulties. Mainly the lack of familiarity with the shroud and what's involved. So if it's on the ground there is the great opportunity to learn what it's all about and get familiar with it. That's a real valuable. There are the tricks to learn such as not using the cheese head screws but rather hex hd. screws. And long screws on the shroud ends so that they can be loosened without falling out.
No, havn't run into anyone in a short school bus. There are a lot of folks that do the R and R real quick. It's always a days job for me. The concern is there is a lot of crap work done on many of the 15 minute jobs. A while back we were discussing the top left main mounting bolt and how it was missing on many engines. That's an example.
Anyway it will be good to hear how the OP did. |
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