TheSamba.com :: View topic - 3000-3500 rpm? timing trouble....

Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:01 am

I have a 1600 dp on my 74 super with a 009 distributor....

I know Im supposed to time it at max advance (28-32 BTC at 3000 rpm)

Heres the problem... How do I know when Im at 3000 rpm? is there an easy way to know without putting out a lot of money for a meter?

Also timing light: when I actually do get to 3000 rpm, what am I looking for with the timing light? I have the simple kind that just blinks.

so far it blinks rapidly and TDC appears to be 2-3 inches BTC.

What should I be looking for? A certain distance with the timing marks?

Thanks

Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:05 am

What you are looking for is all of the centrifical advance the distributor has to offer at speed and make that point to be 28-30º BTDC. These 009s are so crappy there is no exact RPM to go by.

If you do not have a degree pulley, just do it this way....

http://www.type2.com/library/electrip/bosch009.htm

Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:33 am

74restore wrote: I know Im supposed to time it at max advance (28-32 BTC at 3000 rpm)

Heres the problem... How do I know when Im at 3000 rpm?

The exact rpm doesn't matter. You need to set the dizzy to never have in more than 28 or or maybe 30 degrees of advance at any rpm. So keep increasing the rpms until it stops advancing, and set the distributor body (AFTER setting the dwell) so that the max advance is at 28-30 degrees on the crank pulley.

Quote: is there an easy way to know without putting out a lot of money for a meter?

You should really have one anyway to tune the carb correctly. I think I got a really nice digital tach/dwell meter on ebay for less than $50.

Quote: Also timing light: when I actually do get to 3000 rpm, what am I looking for with the timing light? I have the simple kind that just blinks.

That's the only kind there is. You mark your target advance point (28-30 degrees BTDC) with a light-colored mark so that it shows up nicely with the timing gun. Adjust the distributor body so that mark (illuminated by the timing gun) never goes to the right of the case parting line no matter how fast the engine runs.

Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:54 pm

ok so im a tad bit confused...

I got the whole timing light figured out, but:

Am I revving the engine with the clamp on the dizzy loose?

What do I do once I have the engine reved and it gets to a point where it stops advancing?

I know it involves the distributer and turning it...
Can anyone give me a step y step so I dont mess up my car?

Thanks

Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:58 pm

I like to leave the clamp a little loose as I rev the engine to the point of no more advance. The I let it loaf back to idle and tighten the clamp with my 10mm socket.

Then I rev it up again since the timing light is still attached and see if it remains about the same.

You would do yourself a favor if you found a more appropriate distributor.

Fri Mar 19, 2010 8:34 pm

I dont understand.... maybe Im thinking about it too hard..

You rev the engine with the distributor slightly loose:

where does the actual timing come into play? once you are revving, what do you do with the dizzy? turn it or something?

thanks

Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:12 pm

74restore wrote: I dont understand.... maybe Im thinking about it too hard..

You rev the engine with the distributor slightly loose:

where does the actual timing come into play? once you are revving, what do you do with the dizzy? turn it or something?

Yes.

Before starting the engine, make your target mark on the crank pulley in a contrasting color that will show up under the timing light. White paint or something like that. Loosen the clamp on the bottom of the distributor so that the body turns if you twist it with a little force, but that it just doesn't slide around. Clamp the timing light probe on the #1 cylinder spark wire, and connect the timing light to power.

Start the engine. Shine the timing light at the crank pulley. In the light of the timing gun, the target time "dot" should be way over on the right at idle. The "TDC" mark, or notch, if there is one, will appear near the top of the pulley. Now with one hand holding the gun at the pulley, rev the engine up with the throttle lever with your other hand. As the engine speeds up, the dot will appear to "walk" to the left toward the case parting line. At some point it will stop walking, even if you increase the engine speed more. That's because the centrifugal advance weights have hit the end of their travel and all the advance is in. When the dot stops moving, you want it to be right lined up with the center case seam, or perhaps just a hair to the right.

If you only have two hands, you'll have to let the engine slow down again. Watch the dot as you turn the distributor body. Turn it one way, the dot moves to the right, the other, it moves to the left. Moveit the way it needed to go. The perform the high rpm test again. Keep adjusting, checking, adjusting, checking, until the dot lands at the right spot at high rpm. Then turn the engine off, tighten the distributor clamp, and start the engine and TEST IT ONE MORE TIME to make sure it didn't drift while you were tightening the clamp.

Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:29 pm

Thanks for dumbing it down. Makes a lot of sense.

Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:10 am

ok i got it figured out. Thanks for the help!!