TheSamba.com :: View topic - What is a good replacement for sound deadening material?

Sun Mar 21, 2010 9:36 am

I just refurbished my 67 pan and all the tarboard and everything is gone now and the entire thing has a good coating o POR15. Now I want to replace all the sound deadening stuf I scraped off. Like the tunnel and pan areas etc..
What is a good replacement to get?

Sun Mar 21, 2010 4:00 pm

This is what I purchased:

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113863740

Sun Mar 21, 2010 4:01 pm

fatmat

Sun Mar 21, 2010 4:47 pm

I used edead. No asphault was cheap and worked great. It was like $100 for 100sqft. Dot waste ur money on dynomat.

Sun Mar 21, 2010 5:31 pm

ThorpS18 wrote: This is what I purchased:

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113863740

i bought this too. can't beat wolfsburg west.

Sun Mar 21, 2010 7:26 pm

Quick Roof if you're ghetto like me.

Sun Mar 21, 2010 7:27 pm

Culito wrote: Quick Roof if you're ghetto like me.

Yepp.
:wink:

Works great!

Sun Mar 21, 2010 7:51 pm

66 Bugman wrote: Culito wrote: Quick Roof if you're ghetto like me.

Yepp.
:wink:

Works great!

Furreal? If so, I'm on that like a cheap suit.

Is it stinky?

Sun Mar 21, 2010 8:08 pm

Reflectix (roof insulation) also for the cheap crowd.

Mon Mar 22, 2010 8:51 am

Thx guys. I was gonna get te wolfsberg stuff but I don't see a replacement for the tunnel tarboard.

Mon Mar 22, 2010 8:54 am

DPicasso wrote: 66 Bugman wrote: Culito wrote: Quick Roof if you're ghetto like me.

Yepp.
:wink:

Works great!

Furreal? If so, I'm on that like a cheap suit.

Is it stinky?

Not at all.

I don't get it... people always say that it is, but I have it in my doors, my floors quarter panels, and interior and exterior firewall and it doesn't smell at ALL. Nothing.

And, I mean no smell after it's been sitting out in the sun all day...
I have a friend who's customer's use dynomat because they are very wealthy... and it seems to be just about the same to be honest. Quick roof just doesn't say "Dynomat" on the outside, hah. But thats just my opinion, someone who is more knowledgeable than I will probably say this and that, but I'm happy with it.

Mon Mar 22, 2010 1:59 pm

i want to use the quick roof in my car too. did you dive your car before the installation? did it make a big difference? less road noise?

Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:48 pm

I used Quick roof too. Worked great! easy to put on the sound is better. have not even done the most important area (the lugauge area) yet but am excited to see how that turns out.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:57 am

I drove my VW to work for about 4 months, before tearing it apart. It had a single port engine and was it loud. I actually used ear plugs when i drove it.

Then I read about quick roof and all the good and bad comments about it. I decided to give it a try. I used it on the luggage shelve and wheel wells, using just one layer. What an improvement !!! I could actually hear my radio at normal volume. I also did this during the summer and did not notice any odor's.

When it came time to rebuild the car, removing the quick roof was one tuff job. They must use a very good adhesive :) But, I will probably give it another try, when the time comes.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 5:18 am

Ok here's a dumb question...
Can you buy quickroof in Home Depot?

Tue Mar 23, 2010 5:41 am

Schwing wrote: Ok here's a dumb question...
Can you buy quickroof in Home Depot?

I wanted something cheap just to put inside my doors and rear quarters. I looked all over at my local HD and lowes and never found anything called quickroof.

But, at Lowes, I found "peel & seal", which I think is the equivalent of this quickroof stuff I never could find. I drove it in the heat all last summer and never smelled any funky odors. Here is what it looks like (always nice to know what it looks like when searching around aimlessly in the store :wink: )

Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:21 am

fluxcap wrote: Schwing wrote: Ok here's a dumb question...
Can you buy quickroof in Home Depot?

I wanted something cheap just to put inside my doors and rear quarters. I looked all over at my local HD and lowes and never found anything called quickroof.

But, at Lowes, I found "peel & seal", which I think is the equivalent of this quickroof stuff I never could find. I drove it in the heat all last summer and never smelled any funky odors. Here is what it looks like (always nice to know what it looks like when searching around aimlessly in the store :wink: )

Yeah, thats the same stuff as quickroof. Probably just different marketing... hah. But yes, you can find quick roof at most (I think all...) home depots. In their roofing sections. It looks like the peel and seal above, but it's yellow. Thats the only difference.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:29 am

After reading the many, many debates on the "cheap" versions, I went to the local builder place to look at the peel and stick versions. It ran about $12 a roll. A lot of people will say "it's asphalt based!" but I found that the one I bought is rubber butyl, with NO asphalt at all.

Here is a great, super informative post from the Bay forum regarding this topic:
manikmike wrote: Here's a bunch of info I've been compiling... some are quotes of others, some are my random thoughts as I was grabbing info - apologies for not editing all those out. I'm not endorsing or associated with any vendors mentioned.

----

Sound Proofing and Insulation http://www.sciplus.com/index.cfm

What I have:

Reflectix: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=13353-56291-ST16025&lpage=none

Its R4 and R8 if you double it

* butyl based product while the latter two are asphalt based (asphalt may be smelly, often used in peel & stick roofing products, could be bad for lungs- not used INSIDE homes)?

* Butyl rubber sheeting is not the same as a constraint layer viscoelastic damper

* open-cell latex foams are bad and can absorb water- closed cell OK. the same properties that allow you to wash latex foam off your hands with water also mean that the cured foam can absorb water

*You need to be able to keep the drain holes open at the bottom of the body panels.

*R-value is a measure of thermal resistance- the bigger the number, the better the insulation's effectiveness

Just a couple of BASIC* things to remember:
1. If you want to reduce noise as well as thermally insulate your vehicle, you need to bond the insulation to the metal for maximum effectiveness. This is why EVERY acoustic insulator is adhered to the body panel in one way or another.

2. Any additional insulation (thermal and/or acoustic) beyond the stock application will help. "Crumpling up newspaper and stuffing it in the empty spaces will thermally insulate the vehicle better than nothing at all. I am dead serious. This is actually a survival technique; you crumple up paper and stuff it in your clothing. The air pockets created are what make the insulation Partially dried maple leaves do the same thing (it was a Boy Scout thing, that's how I know)."

3. Be very, very careful about spray-in foams. If they expand and have no where to expand to then they can possibly cause damage. They have a great potential to be messy. Some can contain components that are acidic to metal...not good. They have a VERY good potential to trap moisture. "Not recommended. The damage it can cause isn't measured in days or months but in years down the road"...

4. Foam padding has pretty much the negative of holding moisture as well. Over time it can rot and disintegrate and thus become ineffective. Neoprene isn't bad because of its dense, closed-cell nature.

5. Use quality materials so they'll last! This is something you want to do once. Of course, if you go the crumpled up newspaper route then it's just costing you time...

“Glue”: http://www.peel-n-stick.com/p-26-affix-it-strips.aspx

Ebay Item number: 140335907905 ; 330338935980; 330344531005
Look for FatMat here too

JC Whitney
Insulating Sheeting, 32" x 54" Sheet; # ZX125514A
http://www.jcwhitney.com/HEAT-SOUND-INSULATION/GP_2010475_N_111+10201+600002669_10101.jcw

Lizard Skin
http://www.lizardskin.com/
(ceramic type)

RAAMAudio
http://www.raamaudio.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=27&vmcchk=1&Itemid=60

Second Skin
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
Damplifier Pro

FatMat
MegaMat product
http://www.fatmat.com/bulk/megamat/100.html

Line-X product?

Other links:
http://www.type2.com/library/heat/intrir1.html

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=277038&start=80

“I happened across helpful home depot employee who fixes old cars on a budget. He said the asphalt stuff is messy/ gooey- and steered me to "Protecto Wrap butyl hybrid window and door sealing tape". I haven't installed it yet, but I like that it has NO odor- and inexpensive too” -
naynay on samba http://savingirene.blogspot.com/

“125 square feet to do roof, walls, and nose. roof is 65 sq. ft. alone, walls are 55 sq. ft. (including front doors), 5 sq. ft. for the nose center. adds 48 pounds of butyl and foil to the bus if you buy RAMM mat- 80 sq.ft. of peel and seal will cover the floor and wheel wells, adding another 25 pounds”

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/conclusion/ looks like Damplifier outperforms Dynamat and its way cheaper to boot! especially desirable for front door cavities as you can reposition it easily, then as time goes by it adheres stronger and stronger. RAMM audio's RAMMmat is a slightly better value in the same non-asphalt category, but lighter per square foot. still, expensive stuff. $218 (shipped) for 125 square feet. Seems to me that Peel & Seal is fine for floor and over the engine, but on walls and ceiling Damplifier or RAMMmat is apparently necessary for long term adhesion. As for insulation, reflectix is great stuff and i thought i read that its R-value is 11 with a 3/4" airspace? i would not use foam in a can. even though its closed cell, it can still trap water in a corner.

https://fa.misumiusa.com/gwos/catalog/catalog_view...T_ID=12824

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/conclusion/

http://www.mcmaster.com/ for butyl rubber sheeting
http://www.rubbersheetroll.com/neoprene-rubber-medium-strength.html

http://www.bquiet.com/

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=115058&highlight=sound+proof (read)

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=309327&highlight=sound+proof (second skin thread)

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=230667&highlight=sound+proof

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=218357&highlight=sound+proof

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=64626&highlight=sound+proof

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=72783&highlight=sound+proof

http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/corporate/about_us/technology/review/e/pdf/2007/19e_24.pdf

http://www.proguardcoatings.com/rubber-liquid-coating-intro.htm

http://www.automotiveinteriors.com/HEAT_SHIELD.htm
1 Roll = 48" x 72" $32.00 per Roll + $ 14.00 S & H

http://www.sciplus.com/singleItem.cfm/terms/13806

For floor soundproofing?
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet...401+503220

How To Do It: http://www.ajquick.com/cars/tutorials/sound_deadener.php

Interesting MSDS: http://www.mfmbp.com/pdf/msds/MSDS-SA.pdf

?DEMILEC (USA) non-toxic spray foam insulations such as SEALECTION® 500? Probably won't be cheap but it supposedly is able to expand and contract with the surface it is adhering to.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:01 am

I used dynamat along with dynoliner. More then happy with the results.

Tue Mar 23, 2010 2:42 pm

I am also replacing the sound deadening on my '70 convertible. I looked at many different products. There is a company called Sound Tec that has various products for this purpose. They have a product that is very similar to Dynamat, but much less expensive. It works great and the people there were really good to work with. Their website is soundtecnw.com.