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  View original topic: If stock pumps are soo good..
hemifalcon Mon May 24, 2010 9:18 pm

Why hasn't someone started making them with threaded fittings so you could...install AN lines directly to a pump?? This is silly, but one of the reasons I went electric is because you have to use clamps to the old pumps--when you want to switch to AN lines, you are also screwed.. Someone have an idea out there?? I'm running Dellorto 40 DRLA's on my car, and I don't like the fact that my newly installed Facet pump and Holley pressure regulator don't want to allow low enough pressure to NOT flood my carbs badly...

fastinradford Mon May 24, 2010 11:54 pm

lol, because on a carb engine AN lines/fittings are excessive. Stock pumps are a balance and reliability and economical. Not cool looking.

modok Tue May 25, 2010 12:30 am

Dude, you don't need AN fittings for 3 psi. I believe the CB(carter) rotary fuel pump may be what you want.
Also the good fuel line costs like 30cents an inch, but the stuff hardly needs clamps and lasts ten years at least.
You just like the AN fittings cause they are pretty, admit it!

jl_1303 Tue May 25, 2010 1:27 am

I have always thought that one could weld the threaded bits to the mechanical pump for the AN fitting to fit. Just wonder if anyone has done that.

Yes, I think that the AN fitting looks good and tidy.

hemifalcon Tue May 25, 2010 5:29 am

Yes.. the AN fittings look cool. You can't deny that. Let's look at it this way. When you remove those rubber lines from barbed fittings repeatedly, they tend to become more brittle and crack. 10 years, hardly think that is true when you are driving the car regularly. And yes--I've spent the money on all these lines, because they do look cool. On my next A/C VW, I'll keep it much more mundane-- but not this time around. :-)
With regards to the idea of 'welding' the threaded fittings to a stock pump, I was thinking that was the only idea..


bmr11969 Tue May 25, 2010 5:54 am

[/quote]

I am digging your Oil filler.

B-

Glenn Tue May 25, 2010 6:05 am

hemifalcon wrote: Let's look at it this way. When you remove those rubber lines from barbed fittings repeatedly, they tend to become more brittle and crack. 10 years.

Other than to change the fuel filter, why would you need to remove the fuel lines so often?

You have a nice looking engine and looks do count. Removing the fuel pump and hoses do cleanup things, but there are ways to make it look tidy with the mechanical pump.

I remember watching one of the old "Biker Build Off" shows with Indian Larry. He explained that he didn't like the ultra smooth bikes where all the wires and controls were hidden. He felt that they were machines and he wanted them to look like machines.

On my engine I used 1/4" hardline and only short lengths of hose to connect between the hardline and the fuel pump. The only time I would ever remove the hose is if I was disassembling the engine or changing the fuel pump. And the cost to replace 3" of hose is cheaper than steel braid hose.

What i'm saying is build it the way you like it. I've seen people modify the mechanical pump by cutting off the nipple in the in/out and using a compression fitting to convert to AN-6.

candymustang65 Tue May 25, 2010 7:14 am

Im not much on Dell knowledge .
But Faccett make's a Pump Reccomended for Webbers that Pump's like 2 PSI and it's my understanding that no Reg is needed .
Bunch of Crappola to go wrong is my personal opinion ?
But sure you have the right Pump ?
How many PSI is reccomended on the Dell's ?
I use Stock Pump's and then Reduce the stock Fuel pump pressure with stock line and fuel filter .
Im not Much on Bling but see no reason why Fitting cant be pressed intoo a stock Pump.
But stock Pump's Putt out 4-6 PSI << too much for Webbers and has to be reduced .
Addin a Gasket + Betwen pump and Carb's I use the 1.99 Plastic fuel filter to go from 1/4 inch on pump side to 5/16th's on carb side of filter .
Between the 2 method's of reduceing Pump out Put you can get her perfect .
Very Reliable as Ive been doin it this way fer Year's !
Sean

Frodge Mon Nov 07, 2016 6:45 am

Glenn wrote: hemifalcon wrote: Let's look at it this way. When you remove those rubber lines from barbed fittings repeatedly, they tend to become more brittle and crack. 10 years. . The only time I would ever remove the hose is if I was disassembling the engine or changing the fuel pump. And the cost to replace 3" of hose is cheaper than steel braid hose.
.

I'm waiting for the top of my carb to come back. I was planning in changing that little fuel line. Now that I read this, I wonder if I should just leave that 3" piece from the hard line to pump alone.....

mark tucker Mon Nov 07, 2016 7:20 am

my oil system is braded steel with fancy russell an fittens... not sure you should be welding on your fool pump. they do make some slip on braded lines that use a hose clamp thats covered up wif a anodized aluminum nut looking thingy...probably just as fast as the an stuff. i use it because... well Ive got a big hp v8 drag car and lots of that stuff new in boxes. but I doubt my 356 will have any braded stainless lines on it if it ever gets done.

ps2375 Mon Nov 07, 2016 10:18 am

I use AN fittings, but not the braided line for fuel. I have Webers which have screw in AN fittings and a low pressure electric fuel pump that doesn't need a regulator and a compression fitting on the end of the hardline coming out of the frame horn.
I suppose to get it to work with a stock pump, you will need to come up with a way to attach the AN fitting to the pump, and maybe some sort of fuel recirc/return off the regulator to allow it to function properly.

I have been contemplating adding a fuel return line with some sort or regulator to allow for possibly cooler fuel to be fed to carbs at all times, but then I may also need to change the pump to increase it's flow and pressure. Not sure if it's worth the effort.

A pic from 2 yrs ago before the ends were cut to length and the push-lock fittings installed.

FreeBug Mon Nov 07, 2016 11:56 am

Frodge wrote: Glenn wrote: hemifalcon wrote: Let's look at it this way. When you remove those rubber lines from barbed fittings repeatedly, they tend to become more brittle and crack. 10 years. . The only time I would ever remove the hose is if I was disassembling the engine or changing the fuel pump. And the cost to replace 3" of hose is cheaper than steel braid hose.
.

I'm waiting for the top of my carb to come back. I was planning in changing that little fuel line. Now that I read this, I wonder if I should just leave that 3" piece from the hard line to pump alone.....


Recipe for disaster: that flexible fuel line is the fusible link in your setup, and could squirt or drip right next to the distributor spark.

How much does fuel line cost? How much is a car worth? Alcohol fuels can ruin it overnight...

Beetles burn real nice, and quick, too!

Frodge Mon Nov 07, 2016 12:03 pm

I'll swap a new hose in this week. How often should it be changed?

FreeBug Mon Nov 07, 2016 12:11 pm

The secret is to learn how to inspect it, bend it, see how it reacts, listen for cracking, look for leaks, etc.

I am appalled at the short active lifespan of some of the Gates stuff, lately. YMMV, literally.

UK Luke 72 Mon Nov 07, 2016 2:44 pm

I don't like the braided stuff... Makes checking the integrity of the rubber impossible. Not sure what it's like over there but in the UK the ethanol in the fuel is eating the hoses... Need to change them every year.

Casting Timmy Mon Nov 07, 2016 5:28 pm

There are two springs for the common holley regulator....you need the low pressure spring.

Casting Timmy Mon Nov 07, 2016 5:31 pm

A positive I've read about putting on larger fuel line is that you can get more power out of the motor. It will be interesting to see if he responds, but I know one guy that has posted a few times of 1/4 mile time improvements with simply changing to larger feeds on the fuel lines.

ps2375 Mon Nov 07, 2016 5:58 pm

Casting Timmy wrote: A positive I've read about putting on larger fuel line is that you can get more power out of the motor. It will be interesting to see if he responds, but I know one guy that has posted a few times of 1/4 mile time improvements with simply changing to larger feeds on the fuel lines.

That is only if you are running the carbs out of fuel during the run. Not sure how that applies to this thread.

KTPhil Mon Nov 07, 2016 6:08 pm

Frodge wrote:


I would make three changes here. First, I'd use FI hose that is more resistant to fuel additives, and the smooth jacket makes identifying cracks or leaks easier. Next, I'd use FI clamps instead of worm clamps; they are easier on the hose jacket. Lastly, I'd align the two metal tubes a little better, and make sure the metal line cannot vibrate much. A short hose section sees tighter bend radii, which flexes the hose more and can loosen it up, or speed cracking.



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