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Fri Jul 16, 2010 5:19 pm

Can we replace the window rubber on my son's '69 Squareback popout windows with out removing the whole window? It seems like the glass rubber/glass will come out easily. Not as sure about the outer rubber. It looks like it should be a snap. Is it?

Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:28 am

No. If you're replacing the seals (2 per window), then they have to come completely out, and out of the frame. There are 4 screws (per window) that have to be removed to seperate the frame halfs. The screws can be a bugger to get out though, especially if rust has taken hold. However, that's the easy part of the job. Getting the inner seal on is pretty easy too, but getting the frame halfs back on will teach you new swear words, and likely give you a headache, as they are a real PIA to re-install. I've found using tie down straps (for ATV's) works great for closing up that last inch that really doesn't want to close. For the outer seal, you have to figure out which side is out, then stretch the seal to fit it in the groove, and work it around the frame. The last 4 inches of that seal are a PIA too, but with some persistance, it'll go on just fine. Use lots of soapy water for a lubricant. Plan on spending a full day doing both windows, as it's just that kind of job, meaning work slowly, so you don't damage anything.
Then you'll need 2 people to re-install the windows into the car. Use some 2 inch wide masking tape to hold the front seal lip/edge back, so you can hook the hooks into the window post. After it's in, and all bolted up, remove the 2 inch tape carefully, and you should be done. I hope this helps.

Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:49 am

Bobnotch, thanks for the info. We just walked in from replacing the rubber and you are spot on about the screws. One on each window won't come out so the inner rubber on both sides remains. It is actually OK. We replaced the outer rubber and the tape idea is a good one, I'll remember it next time. I was thinking of drilling out the little screws in the frame but they seem to be 3.5mm, not 3 or 4 mm like the nice replacement screws they have at ACE hardware. I'll have some on hand when we go to do the inner seals. Yea we were wisihng these were just stationary windows, not pop outs at one point!
Thanks.

Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:51 am

Yuck this sounds like a nasty job. I've replaced seals on early beetle popouts before and it wasn't the easiest job, I think it was a bit similar from memory but that was a few years ago now.

I need to do this on my 69 square as well, its the middle of winter here and the popouts are one of the many sources of leaks into the car at the moment. At least after reading this I'll know not to start on a Sunday afternoon like I tend to most jobs, thanks for the write up.

Sat Jul 17, 2010 11:34 am

SVW-054 wrote: Yuck this sounds like a nasty job. I've replaced seals on early beetle popouts before and it wasn't the easiest job, I think it was a bit similar from memory but that was a few years ago now.

I need to do this on my 69 square as well, its the middle of winter here and the popouts are one of the many sources of leaks into the car at the moment. At least after reading this I'll know not to start on a Sunday afternoon like I tend to most jobs, thanks for the write up.

Yeah, it's basically the same job. The difference is that a Squareback's side windows are more squared off than a bugs. At least we can still get the seals.

On another note, I've got to redo my 65 Notch's rear quarter windows, as the inner seal is toast, and leaking water inside. I'll probably do it one of these days though.

Sat Jul 17, 2010 12:32 pm

mywifesghia wrote: Bobnotch, thanks for the info. We just walked in from replacing the rubber and you are spot on about the screws. One on each window won't come out so the inner rubber on both sides remains. It is actually OK. We replaced the outer rubber and the tape idea is a good one, I'll remember it next time. I was thinking of drilling out the little screws in the frame but they seem to be 3.5mm, not 3 or 4 mm like the nice replacement screws they have at ACE hardware. I'll have some on hand when we go to do the inner seals. Yea we were wisihng these were just stationary windows, not pop outs at one point!
Thanks.

They usually have to be drilled out. ISP sells new screws. I'm gonna have to re-do mine (again) at some point, but I'm putting it off as long as possible. IT WAS A PAIN.

Sat Dec 04, 2010 10:39 pm

hey i was going to replace one of my outer seals tomorrow and this so far is helpful but i was curious about how to get the whole window and all out to put the outer seal in.

Sun Dec 05, 2010 6:45 am

If you remove the 3 screws holding the latch the window will swing out until it falls out of the 2 front hinge plates. Better to have a helper on the inside or outside if one is available your first time.

Sun Dec 05, 2010 4:12 pm

alright i put the new seal in which was pretty easy with some soapy water. the hard part was putting the window back in, i think i have it back in now. it closes easy and opens without falling out so im pretty sure i did it right.

Sun Dec 05, 2010 4:17 pm

The trick for re-installing, is to hold the front of the new seal out with masking tape. After it is in, cut the tape away.

Sun Dec 05, 2010 9:43 pm

yeah i didn't have masking tape but i used some duct tape to hold it back to install the window but it was still quite the pain in the butt. but it seems to be in like i said i guess time will tell.

Tue Sep 13, 2011 4:05 pm

I'm going to look at replacing mine soon. I have the rubbers (they came with the car) It's the outer rubber I'm looking at replacing, the part within the chrome trim, if you know what I mean?

The rubber that seals aginst the body is fine.
Is really that hard?

Tue Sep 13, 2011 5:28 pm

my drivers side window is so excited to have its seals replace it fell out all by itself the outher day while driving down the street...

Tue Sep 13, 2011 6:40 pm

Having just looked (i've been at work tonight) It's the bit between the glass and the trim. Doesn't look that difficult, ha, famous last words :lol:

Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:41 pm

I started to do mine a while back but ran out of beer halfway through and havnt gotten around to attempting again.

Wed Sep 14, 2011 7:44 am

ballbag wrote: Having just looked (i've been at work tonight) It's the bit between the glass and the trim. Doesn't look that difficult, ha, famous last words :lol:

See my post/write up above. You have to completely disassemble the window (frame included) to replace the inner seal. I hope you bought a pair of new outers too, otherwise you'll be SOL if you rip 1.

Wed Sep 14, 2011 11:32 am

I have pop outs that need redoing badly... I also have a set of non pop out windows that I might install temporarily. Is this OK?

Wed Sep 14, 2011 12:32 pm

The non pop outs are easy to put in. We replaced the pop outs with non poppers.

Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:15 pm

I'm in the process of replacing the inner and outer of both pop-outs. Bobnotch's early write up in this thread was extremely helpful (as was the entire conversation)! Thanks. As is par for the course I encountered two rusty screws. One came out relatively easily. The other, well, not so much. I had to drill it and now that I have everything a part, cleaned, and ready to go back together with new rubber I'm wondering what to do about this drilled out hole....?

I see that I can order new screws from ISP but as I look at the hole I'm wondering what good a new screw is going to do me if there are no threads for it to screw into.

Any thoughts?

Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:47 pm

I just did my notch popouts. All the screws came out except the last two of course. I had to drill them out. I then took a donor squareback frame and removed the nut plate. The rivets that hold the nut plate together are the same rivets that hold early bug vent window latches in and can be bought new from wolfsburg west for next to nothing. I then drilled out the nut plate on the notch frames and reinstalled the rivets. They have to be held in place on one side and pounded flat on the other. I spent three nights restoring them. It very tideous and will make you cuss. As for the outer seals I used spray white lithum grease and did not have to stretch seal just pushed it right in the track.