TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sun Aug 14, 2011 6:58 pm

I love how we sit here for years trying to figure out stuff and guys that know how just do it in an afternoon. Amazing........

beautiful work man...beautiful =D> =D> =D>

Sun Aug 14, 2011 7:44 pm

Nice work - looks great!

Question - have you reinforced the back of the removable panel so that it won't warp out of shape?

bryan

Mon Aug 15, 2011 2:25 pm

Yes I added several new layers of mat and glass before I even cut out the section. I then reinforced with metal brackets the holes where the head lights go threw. I made sure I removed any wobble or fender that would move with new bracing. The previous owner removed some structure braces on the side for his under body lighting. The guy was an idiot I spent more time re-bracing then I did painting.
So now the headlights bolt threw the fiberglass and a metal bracket attached to the front beam.

Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:37 pm

What does the underside of the removable hood panel look like? One thing that could be added if additional strength is needed to prevent hood panel warpage is to make an x-brace on underside of hood - you could epoxy either foam or balsawood strips (say 1" wide by 1/4" thick) to underside of panel (I prefer urethane foam and epoxy resin for this; the foam can be bowed to shape easier than wood) - then glass over it to maintain the panel curvature.

And I'm familiar with the body butchery of previous owners... going through my own fiberglass fun now!

Your work looks great - keep it up!

bryan

Mon Aug 15, 2011 6:09 pm

I just used two very different fabrics of fiberglass mat and laid them in different directions over a a few days of re-glassing. I did this to make sure when I cut the section out things stayed in the same shape. I made the cut in November and just finished with the body work. I really did nothing for a long time and the price was not having it ready for this season. I had a heated garage but I just got lazy and let it sit.
I understand what your suggesting and I can see it would be much stronger. I figured since the opening was not really all that large the extra stuff I did was enough. I hope lol need to get it on the road and find out. I wished I had painted to pan bolts to match the body but I plan on newer bolts and washers something SS or just paint them black or a white. If my plans come true you never will see them if I get the inside trimmed out with custom made panels with blue and white. The back lid will be made the same striped pattern. My neighbor has a industrial sewing machine and re-done her jet boat. It was very nice. Hope she come threw for me.
I am kissing her ass on a regular basis lol.

Mon Aug 15, 2011 6:27 pm

Baltek Mat is used to make GRP panels more stiff. I know they used it on the inside of the hood of the Classic Manx. I'm not sure about on the Manxter or Kickout.

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=93

Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:48 am

Damn sun is bright and the camera just barely can see the pearl
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Maybe I should use my Canon for a better pic[/img]

Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:57 am

Looks fantastic ! I just need to get my ass in gear and work on mine some more.

Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:09 am

Lets see if this looks better.
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Tue Aug 16, 2011 2:45 pm

... wait a sec... thought I caught a glimpse of pearl!

Nice!

bnc

Tue Aug 16, 2011 8:48 pm

LOL
The pearl is super easy to see out in the sun I just can't catch it on film. Go Figure.
I mixed a 1 gram of Royal Blue to the Clear kit which is a quart with an 8 oz activator plus a squirt of reducer just for flow better. When it comes down to it there not much area to cover. It took a gallon of White Base Coat and 40oz of Clear & Blue Pearl and then cover with plain Clear again another 40oz. I tried HVLP but I am old school and used my suction feed gun. It seemed to work better for me.

Wed Aug 17, 2011 4:20 am

zcliff wrote: Thank you what a crazy way to spell a word LOL,
Maybe later to day I can photobucket my pics and link them up later. I can't find my post where it showed the just cut out look and received many comments about not rounding the corners. Which I did and like it much better. I understand about the stress of the corners.

That' was the inverntor's last name, William Dzus :wink:

Wed Aug 17, 2011 6:05 am

Thank you, I was looking to powder coat them but a guy showed me how easy the buff up and now the plain aluminum looking Dzus looks like they are chrome.
Next I will take apart the pop rivets and buff them. :D

Thu Aug 18, 2011 3:29 pm

It's going together pretty good here's an update;
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Now my next decision is do I get by buffing and changing the glass in the windshield or do I buy a new one $$$$$???????
The frame is OK just the past owner like drilling holes and it is in serious need of polishing.

Thu Aug 18, 2011 4:39 pm

Wow! You do work fast...

Looks good, but your fan belt is on backwards... :lol:

bnc

Thu Aug 18, 2011 4:49 pm

LOL Every day is Friday 4pm ((Retired))
Medically retired from Norfolk Southern Rail Road since "(98)"

Thu Aug 25, 2011 5:48 pm

UPDATES:

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Pretty much getting close waiting for my other mirror to be shipped and then wire the buggy.
I am so happy I took the time to buff out my windshield frame, it looks like brand new. Only thing was the holes on top so I decided to put on the huge panoramic mirror back on to cover the holes.

Thu Mar 22, 2012 10:03 am

I'm a little confused (ok maybe just stupid)
where does the water go that drains into the drip shield.
it appears the drip shield is all the way around the opening and
I don't see any kind of drain at the bottom.

what am I not seeing here?

James

Thu Mar 22, 2012 10:14 am

Your missing where it opens at each clip bracket at the very front down low, all water drops on the front end linkage. There is no fuel tank in the front. and the water ran right around and dropped perfectly. I traded this off for another project so no more pics. It was to small for me I am pretty tall so I got a sweet car in trade.
if you go back to the first page you can see in the painted white pics the brackets went past the drain rail so the water just dropped at that point.