| totally_tweaked@hotmail.c |
Sun Feb 23, 2003 2:20 pm |
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Anyone know of a 1300 rebuild kit or a good source of parts? The engine in my 66' died a few weeks ago and I want to rebuild it stock. Any help would be great, I'm sick of driving a Nissan.
Thanks,
Tad |
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| Aussiebug |
Sun Feb 23, 2003 11:43 pm |
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Where are you - Florida or Finland?
And it's no good telling what VW shops are here in Australia if you live in either place.
In other words - more info required!
I agree about the Nissan - I'd much rather drive a bug :-)
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.geocities.com/aussiebug1970/ |
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| totally_tweaked@hotmail.c |
Mon Feb 24, 2003 10:39 pm |
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| I live up in Washington state but so far I havn't found any shop offering 1300 rebuild parts. |
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| speirsn@telusplanet.net |
Tue Feb 25, 2003 8:40 pm |
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| I live just across the border from you (in Canada) and have ordered from most of the major VW parts suppliers in North America over the last 30+ years. 1300 cc piston kits (77 mm pistons) are still available or you can switch to 1600 cc pistons (85.5 mm) but you'll need to switch to new heads or have yours bored out for the 85.5's(the case should be okay as I recall). Try CIP1.com for parts, as they are located in Blaine, WA and are very reputable...22 years or so in business and great prices. Good luck! Neil. |
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| Aussiebug |
Tue Feb 25, 2003 11:36 pm |
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Yes Tad as Neil says - you can rebuild with 1600 P&Cs (and from the outside you'll never see the difference).
If you leave the 1300 heads on, you'll have about 8.8:1 compression ratio which is a little high, even for premium fuel.
Better to get a set of 1600sp heads and then you get a normal 7.5:1 compression ratio (works with normal unleaded gasoline).
The case does not need touching with this conversion - the 1600cylinders slip straight into the case holes. Of course this assumes that the case internals are still sound - rebuilding the 1300 case is exactly the same as rebuilding a 1600 case - they use the same crankshaft etc.
If you convert it to a 1600sp you can continue to use the 30PICT/1 or 30PICT/2 carby you probably have on it now, but the main jet needs to increase to a 125 and the air correction jet should be a 125 or 130.
That's about it for a 1300sp to 1600sp conversion. You get a heap more power of course - around 56-58 for the 1600sp.
If you really want to keep it as a 1300 and have trouble getting 1300P&Cs, try the UK (Buy a Volksworld mag for addresses), or Australia; where the 1300 engines continued as an option well into the 70s.
Parts from
www.aircooled.net
www.cip1.com
www.motorworks.com
www.wolfsburgwest.com
www.mickmotors.com.au (Australia)
Lots more but that will do for now.
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.geocities.com/aussiebug1970/ |
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| jmcgill89@hotmail.com |
Fri Feb 28, 2003 11:12 am |
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CIP's 1300 P&C set is good, not German, but good. I rebuilt my 1300 with them. Crankshafts and rods are easy to come by, but make sure that they're balanced when (if) rebuilding the case. It may even be worth it to purchase a counterweighted crank to reduce vibration, etc.
Concerning what Rob said about carbs, if you had a 30 PICT 1 carb to start with, chances are, it was jetted with a 125 main jet anyway about it (mine was), so you should be fine if you decide to "upgrade" to a 1600.
One further piece of advice would be, if you keep your 1300 heads, have a valve job done. If you're rebuilding the rest of the beauty, you don't want to take a chance at breaking an exhaust valve. |
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