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Mon Mar 31, 2003 11:07 pm

My 1600 dp starts right up when cold but after I run it for a while then shut it down for about 10min it is hard to start back up again sounds like it is flooded also notice a noise in the fuel pump when shut down sounds like fuel or oil driping down inside the engine.
And do oil baths leak mine seems to leak a little outside the carb and down the manifold

Wed Apr 02, 2003 10:57 pm

Any ideas on what it could be??

Thu Apr 03, 2003 1:39 am

it sounds like ur engine is over heating, i think u should check for the timing,If oil where to get inside the combustion chamber, there would be blue smoke coming out the muffler>and if the carbs are flooding, check ur gas tank cap,Its supose to let out pressure.If no pressure is goin out the gas tank through the cap,the it will go to the carbs, cus pressure has to go some where and it pushes gas to the carbs,(hard to understand?)but first check timing or check ur fan to see if theres anything stuck in there like a rag.paper, or a bag,

Thu Apr 03, 2003 5:14 am

Volkbug, how is a non-vented gas cap going to create positive pressure in a gas tank, pushing the gas out to the carbs? It's the other way around, creates a vacuum.

Also, what does burning oil have to do with not starting? And 'check for the timing'? huh?

Thruster, the first thing to check, obviously, is your choke. Since you didn't say what carb(s) you're running, we'll assume that you're running a stock 34pict. Go here to adjust your choke.
http://type2.com/bartnik/choke.htm
Then here, to adjust your carb:
http://www.type2.com/library/fuel/34pict.htm

This is all assuming that your engine is in a good state of tune.

Lastly, no, oil baths arent supposed to leak.

Thu Apr 03, 2003 5:32 pm

the same thing happen to me., The cap has to let out the pressure.if it doesnt go out throught the cap, it has to go some where right? whats the other whole in the gas tank? where ur fuel line goes right? then the pressure will go out where its easrier to escape,so it goes to the fuel line to the electric or manuel gas pump.and whats conected to ur pump? the carb or carbs which will over flow them duh and can also cause hyberlock if the intake valve where to stay open.It use to happen to me after i ran it for a while, i shut it down and wouldnt start up cus my carbs where flooded. and it can also be cus its over heating.

Thu Apr 03, 2003 5:35 pm

clay, i want u to cover ur gas cap real good, with tape.make it seal real good and tell me what happens the next day, try it

Thu Apr 03, 2003 5:53 pm

I would, but I'm afraid it will 'hyberlock' my intake valve.

Thu Apr 03, 2003 6:00 pm

I will agree that some positive pressures accumulate in a gas tank from fuel sloshing around (like in your gas can for your mini-bike) and vented caps help there, too.

Thu Apr 03, 2003 6:39 pm

it is a 30pict with only about 3000 miles on engine and carb could be the choke the gas tank is a 63 original bug so I am not sure if it has to be vented probly so.

Thu Apr 03, 2003 6:46 pm

Thruster,
If your car was having fuel ventilation problems, it would cause symptoms differently than what you described, like fuel starvation on the highway, etc.

Did you check the choke and adjust your carb? Does you starter spin freely when it's nice and hot?

Thu Apr 03, 2003 7:12 pm

Sounds like the choke to me.

Thu Apr 03, 2003 8:34 pm

I will check out the choke the starter spins freely when I start warm I don,t push on the gas because it seems to flood it more I just keep turning it over until it fires up. When it does start and I push on the gas right away it seems to flood it out. It could be that the choke is still engaged.

Thu Apr 03, 2003 9:17 pm

volkbug32hotmail.com said... (4/3/2003 at 4:32PM PST)

>the same thing happen to me., The cap has to let out the pressure.if it doesnt go out throught the cap, it has to go some where right?

VWs have NEVER used vented gas caps - they have proper ventilation lines attached to the tank. If these get blocked, then you get a reduction in pressure insidethe tank as the fuel is used and it is not replaced with air. If you remove a (proper non-vented) gas cap and here a ffttt of air getting in, the venting system is the problem.

THIS can cause a car to stall after running a short distance, but it isn't a "hot start" problem.

If you use a vented gas cap you will probably be getting fuel smellls every time you corner left (especially with a full tank) as the fuel sloshes up the filler and out the cap vent holes (that's why VW don't use vented caps).

>whats the other whole in the gas tank? where ur fuel line goes right? then the pressure will go out where its easrier to escape,so it goes to the fuel line to the electric or manuel gas pump.

And just where did you think this pressure in the tank comes from???

Perhaps you are looking at the later bugs with the charcoal canister connected to the fan shroud? Well, thats so that fresh air is blown through the canister and forces any unburned HCs up the other pipe to the air cleaner. It's true that the third line on the charcoal canister is the actual tank vent with these cars (it runs forwards to the tank via the expansion box in the luggage area near the tank), but since this line has no valves in it, as soon as you turn the engine off (the cooling fan stops turning) the vent line stabilises at atmospheric pressure.

Thruster - one possibility comes to mind. If you engine is getting a little hotter than it should, and if the bakelite spacer your pump sits on is fairly new, you CAN get a problem which is very hard to diagnose but has symptoms like yours.

If that spacer (which has a plastic push-rod guide under it) is new and tight, then as the engine heats it can heat that pushrod guide section enough to cause it to grab the pushrod, stopping the pump from working and starving the engine. When you stop for a few minutes, the engine temp drops a little and the rod frees-up again, so you can crank the engine, fill the carb and start it up. Pull the pump, and the spacer. If the spacer is a tight fit in the case, sand the outside of it until it's a slip-in fit - this will allow it to expand OUTWARDS a few thou, rather than grabbing the push rod.

It's probably not this since your description is more about flooding, in waich case yes - the choke should be chekced out - it should JUST close on a cold morning, and when the engine is warm it should stand straight up (or almost so).

Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.geocities.com/aussiebug1970/

Thu Apr 03, 2003 11:06 pm

I think you are on to something I have notice noise coming from the fuel pump sort of light a hissing bubbling like an expresso machine. Will pull the fuel pump and do as told above what type of seal (organe) at thre base is used and when I pull the two fuel lines off do I need to plug then with something?
Thanks for you help everyone.

Fri Apr 04, 2003 12:43 am

The pump seals are just gasket paper.

Check the pump whilst it's out - repack the area under the pump (around the operating arm) with grease before you put it back in. If there's no grease of it's all wet and gooey, the pump diaphragm has probably sprung a leak - which will drip fuel into the sump (a BAD thing), and could also make it hard to start (less fuel flowing to the carby.)

Re - plugging the lines.

If the car is facing up hill then you might get fuel running out of the line from the tank, but on level ground there should be no problems. The line up to the carby might drip a few drops - that's all.

Take note of which line goes where on the pump before pulling them off - some of the newer pumps work "upside down" with the outlet to the carby being the bottom pipe.

Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.geocities.com/aussiebug1970/

Fri Apr 04, 2003 6:31 am

Hey what are the signs of fuel starvation? I think I may have them, or possibally that in conjunction with over heating, if you guys could checvk out my post on the general form or super titled "Tempermental Tranny"