| ctroutma |
Sat Mar 05, 2011 11:57 am |
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I am currently in the process of painting my 1965 Bus. I stripped it to bare metal and applied two coats of etching metal primer. Then I applied one coat of high build K-36 primer, but unfortunately don't have enough in the budget for a second coat.
My concern is how flat and how much coverage I need on the high build before I can apply the base coat. The primer has some texture to it, and I have wet sanded twice with 400 grit.
I'm trying to determine if I can apply the base coat as is, or if I should use the money to put a second primer coat and leave it that way till I have more money for base coat. Does the primer have to be flat and shiny? What are the surface requirements for applying the base coat? |
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| dawerks |
Sat Mar 05, 2011 1:27 pm |
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Put some water on the primer. The way it looks wet is how the paint will look AT it's best. If you are happy with it, you can go ahead and paint it. 400 grit is the surface requirement for basecoat unless it has metallic (then it's 600?)
But, that is the absolute best it will look. Paint is not going to hide anything, it will probably make things look worse :)
Buses are huge, props for taking it down to metal! And all that sanding, not so fun. |
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| ctroutma |
Sat Mar 05, 2011 1:30 pm |
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| Definitely not fun, especially since I had to chemically strip and scrape off the mobile home roofing paint that had been painted on there. Looks pretty good, but still not sure yet. Thanks! |
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| schell '59 |
Sat Mar 05, 2011 1:42 pm |
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so true,it does suck!!! but the real shops earn their money and what your experiencing is what it takes and then some...
it ain't easy,though some shops pretend to be hero's it really separates the men from the boys for sure!
to get that old girl straight you have to fill and poly surfacer(the thick sprayable stuff) primer won't cut it.
buses and american muscle cars look like "wash" boards as the panels are relieved behind wit glues and bracing,sucking in the panel over the years...iwouldn't stress out to much as it'll come back later on in life if it just primed and colored...the poly and fillers will keep this look down for years,depends if your doing a shower or a driver...
get tid of all the "peel" in your primer coat,just before it shows burn through...you really should reprime but it's your call. ans yep 600 will be good for the adhesion on your base,put a tad slower reducer to if your temp is warm as it will help "bite" into the catalized primer...
good luck and toss in some pics of her!! |
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| buguy |
Sat Mar 05, 2011 4:57 pm |
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| Man that would suck for you to have done all the work, just to skip an important step over $80 worth of primer. I think that even if the primer is smooth, and I doubt it is, you will be happy with the low spots that are left. I would say even if you have to wait a couple weeks to save for more primer, save for it and do it right and you will be much happier in the end. I agree, if you are painting a solid color, 400 grit wet will be perfect to spray paint over. Before you spray the next round of primer, get your obvious low spots filled with some poly filler. Save for primer, put a couple more coats on, then spray a guide coat with some spray bomb and sand til its gone. |
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| spook |
Sat Mar 05, 2011 6:16 pm |
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spend the extra $$ |
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| buguy |
Sat Mar 05, 2011 7:44 pm |
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| Man those look like they suck to get straight! |
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| TonysGarage |
Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:04 pm |
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Buguy---you've never done a bus?
I have two at my house right now---they do suck to get straight. Especially since on one of them--the previous owner had 300 small dents--which he decided to put about 4" of bond across the whole side to fix---It took me forever to take down to metal! |
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| dawerks |
Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:31 pm |
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sob sob. :)
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| spook |
Sun Mar 06, 2011 5:19 am |
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buguy wrote: Man those look like they suck to get straight!
more billable than was charged
I had fun with that one tho,
the longblock was 5' long |
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| buguy |
Sun Mar 06, 2011 9:42 am |
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| No I havent ever done one. When I first moved to Florida I was here 4 days and got a job doing limos.....Im sure they are just as bad....maybe worse. Yeah those 5' longboards are hell on your arms huh??!! |
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| TonysGarage |
Sun Mar 06, 2011 11:01 am |
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| im sure! although most limos that 'ive seen aren't dead on straight....but im sure if you made them straight that would suck! |
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| buguy |
Sun Mar 06, 2011 11:16 am |
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| I was amazed and sickened at how the made those limos!! Unreal! But yeah i got em straight...not fun!!! But I got to work right across the street from the beach. Worked totally alone, and set my own hours! Pretty good gig. Plus he paid me a good hourly wage...in cash! |
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| dawerks |
Sun Mar 06, 2011 11:21 am |
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Mike Spadafora kicking it on his 56!! This photo is the only thing that keeps me going. I have not even laid the mud yet!!
But it turned out saweeeet!
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| TonysGarage |
Sun Mar 06, 2011 12:12 pm |
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damn hes really putting his shoulder into it!
yeah--its a lot of work--but done right...looks killer! |
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| buguy |
Sun Mar 06, 2011 3:16 pm |
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| Looks like a good candidate for sprayable poly right there!! |
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| Matt K. |
Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:19 am |
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| Definatly alot of work and patience........i think the hardest one i have worked on was a 60 Cad 2 door.......it feels like the quarters are 40 feet long and with the compound curves it make for a true challenge.....Props to anyone will to takle a large project like a bus. |
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| Matt K. |
Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:20 am |
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spook wrote:
spend the extra $$
Damn Spook, that is probably the straightest Bay i have seen !! |
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| TonysGarage |
Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:26 am |
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| He can thank/curse that 5 footer for help with that. |
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| buguy |
Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:54 am |
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| Ugh! I dont miss that shit at all. 10 swipes and your arms and shoulders are toast!! |
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