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Sat Mar 19, 2011 5:27 pm

So Kelly was taking the fasty for a quick cruise and I was following, when I noticed that she slowed down and I noticed liquid spewing from hte right side. She pulled over and the metal tube came out of the carb. What do you guys use to get to stay in? I was thinking about useing JB weld, just make sure that I don't clog the line up with it. Is this a good way?

Thanks
Steve

Sat Mar 19, 2011 7:18 pm

I guess I should be a little more specific. The metal tube that came out was where the fuel line attaches to the carb. Any ideas what to put on this to keep it from coming out again? Anybody go through this before?

Sat Mar 19, 2011 7:41 pm

This one on the top left :lol:

Sat Mar 19, 2011 7:47 pm

I was looking for a photo of the stuff have used and didn't find one but here's a thread where several techniques are discussed:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43739

In that thread I said I used Loctite Sleeve Retainer #64000.
From looking at Google, I think this might be #640 now.

I have also knurled the fitting before tapping it back in with success.

Make sure when you install the fuel line, leave a tiny gap between the end and the carb. If it's pushed all the way on and clamped in place, expansion of the joint can eventually pull it out.

Sat Mar 19, 2011 8:47 pm

EverettB wrote: I was looking for a photo of the stuff have used and didn't find one but here's a thread where several techniques are discussed:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43739

In that thread I said I used Loctite Sleeve Retainer #64000.
From looking at Google, I think this might be #640 now.

I have also knurled the fitting before tapping it back in with success.

Make sure when you install the fuel line, leave a tiny gap between the end and the carb. If it's pushed all the way on and clamped in place, expansion of the joint can eventually pull it out.

Yup, I've had good results doing either of the 2 things Ev mentioned. I've even done both to a bug carb once, as the sleeve retainer stuff just didn't work on it. My son called me 1 night, as his left carb did the same thing. I met him at the gas station (where he pulled in), and knurled the fitting (after I found the problem), and tapped it back in (leaving the gaplike Ev mentioned). It's still holding up after 3 years. 8)

Sat Mar 19, 2011 8:48 pm

EverettB wrote: I was looking for a photo of the stuff have used and didn't find one but here's a thread where several techniques are discussed:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43739

In that thread I said I used Loctite Sleeve Retainer #64000.
From looking at Google, I think this might be #640 now.

I have also knurled the fitting before tapping it back in with success.

Make sure when you install the fuel line, leave a tiny gap between the end and the carb. If it's pushed all the way on and clamped in place, expansion of the joint can eventually pull it out.

Thanks Everett, this is what probably happened ^^^. I might try the loctite you mentioned in combination with knurled the fitting before putting back in. How did the loctite work out for you? I see that you had it on for a day or so when you wrote in the other thread, long run results?

Sat Mar 19, 2011 11:34 pm

Slow Steve wrote: EverettB wrote: I was looking for a photo of the stuff have used and didn't find one but here's a thread where several techniques are discussed:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43739

In that thread I said I used Loctite Sleeve Retainer #64000.
From looking at Google, I think this might be #640 now.

I have also knurled the fitting before tapping it back in with success.

Make sure when you install the fuel line, leave a tiny gap between the end and the carb. If it's pushed all the way on and clamped in place, expansion of the joint can eventually pull it out.

Thanks Everett, this is what probably happened ^^^. I might try the loctite you mentioned in combination with knurled the fitting before putting back in. How did the loctite work out for you? I see that you had it on for a day or so when you wrote in the other thread, long run results?
Unfortunately when I fixed that I sold the car soon afterward. I can't remember how long but I think it was only a couple months. It never popped out again though.

I have knurled a few fuel pumps too and I'm pretty sure I did the one that is on my Bus right now at least a year ago. I check it from time to time and it's solid.

When I tap them in I tap them with something soft like a plastic screwdriver handle.

Sun Mar 20, 2011 2:07 am

The old brass tube comes loose all too often. All my carbs have new tubes machined from 5/16" A.F brass. The end is threaded M7 x 1. The original tube, regardless of tightness in the carb top, is pulled and the hole tapped M7 x 1 (original tube is 6mm which is tapping size for M7 x 1 ). The same can be done with fuel pumps but lock wiring is usually a good prevention even on new pumps. Sure is great insurance against fuel fires in the engine bay.

Sun Mar 20, 2011 6:47 am

Ive had a couple do this as well. I used JBWeld to hold it back in. Just a litlle will do. I didnt have any problems down the road.

The above fix is better but will increase the diameter of fuel line needed to fit over the end.

Sun Mar 20, 2011 11:47 am

Thanks for the info everybody. I didn't realize until I saw the bug that had caught on fire that we dodged a bullet. Thanks again and safety wire here we come!

Sun Mar 20, 2011 2:15 pm

notchboy wrote: Ive had a couple do this as well. I used JBWeld to hold it back in. Just a litlle will do. I didnt have any problems down the road.

The above fix is better but will increase the diameter of fuel line needed to fit over the end.

Jason, the diameter where the fuel line is remains at the 6mm. The slight bump on the end ensures that the clamp has a positive lock and can't slip off as it could with a parallel tube. Most other manufacturers used this method to prevent fuel lines coming off.

Sun Mar 20, 2011 3:27 pm

DHanna wrote: The old brass tube comes loose all too often. All my carbs have new tubes machined from 5/16" A.F brass. The end is threaded M7 x 1. The original tube, regardless of tightness in the carb top, is pulled and the hole tapped M7 x 1 (original tube is 6mm which is tapping size for M7 x 1 ). The same can be done with fuel pumps but lock wiring is usually a good prevention even on new pumps. Sure is great insurance against fuel fires in the engine bay.

Where do you get these?

Sun Mar 20, 2011 4:22 pm

Bobnotch wrote: DHanna wrote: The old brass tube comes loose all too often. All my carbs have new tubes machined from 5/16" A.F brass. The end is threaded M7 x 1. The original tube, regardless of tightness in the carb top, is pulled and the hole tapped M7 x 1 (original tube is 6mm which is tapping size for M7 x 1 ). The same can be done with fuel pumps but lock wiring is usually a good prevention even on new pumps. Sure is great insurance against fuel fires in the engine bay.

Where do you get these?

Sorry Bob but these are turned as required in my own workshop so not a commercial item. The brass rod is readily available so maybe one of the resident machinists in the USA could turn a batch.

As this has been a problem with carbs for many years, maybe ISP could have a supply manufactured. That way the owner only has to tap the carb with no extra drilling and then screw the fitting in.