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Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:26 pm

Hit return before I posted the pics. Full post below.

Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:34 pm

The OTT is great for a stocker but you need more. A1 makes a badass t3 exhaust, at least that will flow enough for your motor.

I got lucky and found a private sale of a NIB AEM UEGO wideband shipped for $180, just have to shop around.

Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:50 pm

supaninja wrote: Nice save on the pan, looks awesome dude. This whole build looks awesome. Thats going to be a very healthy motor. What are you doing for carbs and exhaust?

Thanks. That pan is a later model that I welded some early seat rails into.

For the exhaust I have an OTT from ISP. I want to weld in a bung for a wideband. Whether or not I ever buy one is another story, they're pricey. Since I have the raw (non-ceramic coated) exhaust, I've been looking at coating it myself. There's a coating from Techline called Cilgen that air cures and is rated to about 2000 degrees.

Here's a couple shots of my carbs. They're NOS Italian 36 DCNF's I picked up on ebay awhile back. The guy that sold them to me was really cool, and a couple weeks later sent me some vintage Truehaft short manifolds (which Chico match ported to the heads).

So, I've contacted a bunch of DCNF gurus to work out the jetting and here's I'm going to start with. If anyone else has experience with these please let me know!

31mm choke tubes
4.5 aux venturis
52 idles
125 mains
200 airs
F24 emulsion tubes

I also modified the bowl vent. Since the bowl is sideways, I guess they tend to flood in corners. Someone else here had done a writeup of this same method of soldering brass tubing and raising the vents up above the bowl.

Tue Jun 07, 2011 11:02 pm

I'm going to keep my heater boxes, and the A1 muffler is in the way if I remember right. I don't know of any other non-stock exhaust than the OTT that will work with the heater boxes.

I talked to Chico about it and left it to him to work out the details of the build with still keeping the heat. The valves are stock size.

Tue Jun 07, 2011 11:31 pm

Nice find on the DCNF's and the shorty manifolds, those are tough to find. I have those same air-cleaners as well, but I couldn't find a base that would allow me to use the hex-style accelerator bar setup. Where'd you find those bases and are you using the hext accelerator assembly with it?

Tue Jun 07, 2011 11:50 pm

TommyBoyGomes wrote: Nice find on the DCNF's and the shorty manifolds, those are tough to find. I have those same air-cleaners as well, but I couldn't find a base that would allow me to use the hex-style accelerator bar setup. Where'd you find those bases and are you using the hext accelerator assembly with it?

The crossbar for the linkage is round and the bases came with it. It's made by Bugpack/Tayco (part 1551-15) and the only one I could find for a Type 3. There's a few places that sell it, I don't remember where I bought it from though. I also modified my left carb base by cutting and re-welding the mount tab so the crossbar would be straight across the engine instead of at an angle. I also had to get shorter spacers for the left side to keep the same geometry for the heim fittings and rod that pulls up on the shaft. Hopefully I can start building up my longblock soon and get some pictures up of how I'm going to do it.

Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:03 pm

Finished painting the pan today. It's still wet here, so it won't be this shiny. Only took pics of the bottom, but the top is done and looks nice.

Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:12 pm

your fasty is comming along , all the cleaning and body repair was easy to get done.... that hard part is Body work and getting it back together with a nothing what so ever budget ... i hope your build isnt pluaqed with that problem ... keep it commin!

Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:19 pm

Ya this build is moving right along. My notch has been nickel and diming me death ever since I bought it...so many little things missing or broken, that ish adds up quick.

Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:48 pm

I had no idea what I was getting into here. And already WAY over what I thought this would cost me. Fortunately almost all the body work is done, I had a local shop do all the body panels. I've just never learned body work, and am too busy right now. So I found a local guy who rents the booth at the same shop I had do the body work on the fenders, frunk, and decklid. He's coming out on Thurs to straighten out all the dents in the body. Then in early July I'll get it primed and painted (family vacation). The picklex20 seems to work well, no rust yet.

I've been collecting parts all along and have already cleaned up and painted many of them, so my goal here is to get the pan rolling and painted body back on in July. Then I can really start putting this back together.

Question: I'm going to disassemble the rear subframe starting tomorrow and get it ready to paint. Once I take the shocks off, am I not going to be able to get them back on until the engine is in? I'm a bit concerned taking it apart as it's all under tension. Any tips?

Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:12 pm

What type of sand blaster are you using?

Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:50 pm

Eastwood Dual Blaster. It has two tanks, one for regular media and another for soda. If I were to do it again I'd just get a single tank from Harbor Freight and use Black Diamond media. I've used the fine grit for just about everything I've blasted. The soda is too expensive and I haven't used it that much. The soda is better for cleaning stuff than stripping paint and grime.

And you need a big air compressor, mine puts out 10 cfm and can't keep up with the blaster. Wish I would have spent the extra couple hundred and gotten an Ingersoll Rand dual stage compressor instead of the Campbell Hausfeld.

Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:35 pm

did you notice any panel warp after blasting?

Thu Jun 16, 2011 2:30 pm

eguti66 wrote: did you notice any panel warp after blasting?

No warping at all. I don't think those little blasters are powerful enough. Maybe it's just the big industrial types that will cause a panel to warp.

Thu Jun 16, 2011 7:22 pm

I've been cleaning and plating a bunch of fasteners with the tin-zinc setup from Eastwood. It's turning out nice. Tomorrow they'll get tumbled with some corn cob chunks from the pet store and turn out nice and shiny. The pieces on the right are done.

Thu Jun 16, 2011 11:38 pm

Fyi... the OTT exhaust will be fine with the valves in those heads. The 120 cam is a bit much for stock sized valves.

Wed Jul 13, 2011 8:36 pm

Back from vacation and time for an update. I've been working on getting the subframe ready to paint so I can get this rolling. Had a bit of trouble getting the pivot bolts out. In the end I drilled a little hole in the factory dent that fits into the groove of the pivot bolt. I'll weld it shut and sandblast everything this weekend.

I've also been putting some sound proofing on the pan. I'm using Fatmat 80mil, much cheaper than some of the others and seems to be pretty good quality.

A couple before and after shots of the longblock with the full flow setup. Reused the same case and heads. It's set up the same as the picture Russ Wolfe posted of Jim Adney's engine. 010 rebuilt by Glenn. The badge was pretty tore up so I replaced it with a repop one. BTW, the rivets don't fit right and I had to get a little creative with some JB Weld.

I need to take the engine hanger to a machine shop and get the hole enlarged for the pump cover. I broke so many drill bits already, I'm just going to take it to a local shop with a mill. I did mount up the fan shroud and it just clears without having to grind any of the fins in back. Also had to grind the bottom corner of the fuel pump block off a little as it hit the bar for the thermostat flaps.

Transaxle was rebuilt by AA Transaxle (Daryl) with a 3.88 R/P. I painted it myself when I got it back with SEM Hot Rod Black. Also used that paint for all the tins.

I also noticed my hubs are different thicknesses. One has a fairly stripped hole anyway so just going to get some new ones. One rear wheel did stick out a little bit more than the other. Not sure if that would make much of a difference, maybe it was the excessive bondo.

Wed Jul 13, 2011 8:52 pm

Lookin good :shock:

Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:29 am

wow this car is coming along great. can't wait to see it all back together!

Thu Jul 14, 2011 7:47 pm

Suggest using F25 emulsion tubes with DCNF carburetors, there are more suited to used on aircooled VW engines.

There avaliable from Pierce Manifold. part number 61450.225

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/SearchResults.asp?s...amp;page=2