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Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:05 am

HI,
Like your project to date, looks good.
Also busy with 68 Fastback, will be Meronella red, with slight pearl clear coat.
Have also fitted 2000cc type 4 motor, still need Weber twins to go on.
Not sure which would be best, as I have a hight problem, ....with the type 4 engine that is....
My project post here http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=20281
You fastback is looking GOOOOD
Keep up the nice work.

Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:49 pm

Thanks for the comments and tip on the emulsion tubes for the DCNF's.

Not a big update here, but I sandblasted, primed, and painted the subframe with Masterseries. I started putting it back together yesterday. The trailing arms are laid out on the wrong sides in the picture, but it went together correct.

Installed NOS trailing arm rubber/cups and new rubber for the torsion assembly.

I had measured, marked, and written down the original stock dimensions for the spring plates. I went down 1 outer, which is probably all I can with 205/60's, I also had to do some 'tuning' moves on the passenger side to get the angles to match up. Checking, double checking and leveling all along. When I was done the bottom of the spring plate on both sides was just even with the bottom of the shelf on the subframe. Sound right? Would like to confirm.

I had my wife standing and bouncing on the spring plate to get it in place, but then she suggested the motorcycle strap. It worked really well to compress it about the 1/2" or so it needed and pound it in place using a wood block on the end of the torsion arm part of the spring plate.

It got a little scratched up from moving it around so much while starting to put it back together. I touched up the paint tonight and it's residing in the living room for a day or two to avoid all the body filler dust in the garage. I'll tighten up the spring plates, and do the axles and brakes next.

More pictures coming soon, probably this weekend, just about done with bodywork and putting the engine back together. Been taking pictures all along. Hopefully primer for the body on Saturday.

Sat Aug 06, 2011 8:22 pm

Still working on getting the subframe together. Here's a few shots of putting the rear brakes together, my first time doing this. I put in new bearings because on one side there was some serious damage to the inside of the bearing retainer and spacer that goes between the bearings. Those parts have been replaced. Don't want to do this again later. I used Mystic NGLI 2 grease. I got one of those torquemeister tools for the axle nut, what a cool tool.

I hope to get it done tomorrow and maybe get it bolted back up to the pan.

Lot's of bodywork getting done too. Pretty much all that's left is the rear apron and then epoxy prime (hopefully towards the end of next week).

*edit - forgot pics.

Sat Aug 06, 2011 10:23 pm

Attention to deal! I love it. 8)

Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:05 pm

Thanks Vlad.

Ok, I put the other side back together and the push bar for the ebrake cable does not look right to me. See how the spring is pushed up by the bar on the passenger side, and on the driver side the spring fits into the dent.

I'm getting some mixed info regarding these bars. Found a thread that says they're all the same, but also found online stores that sell R and L sides (for bug) and ISP has 'spec. side' on their parts list which leads me to think I have 2 driver side spreader bars.

What's going on with with these? Thanks.

Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:15 pm

:shock: man thats a beautiful job you did on cleaning up all the bits and pieces.

It's been so long since I have gone through rear brakes I just can't remember.

I'm sure Tram or Bob will chime in and let us know.

Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:52 pm

Found my answer, it came up in 2004. Thanks Bob!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60546

I sent an email to Adney to see if he had one of the passenger side spreaders (that doesn't exist, :shock:). He confirmed it's on there right, concave up on the passenger side.

Seems weird how VW made it like that. I guess the hump is probably just for strength. Relieved I don't have to take it apart though!

Sun Aug 14, 2011 11:04 am

I took a bunch of pics bolting everything to the longblock. Here's a few notes and LOT of pictures:

The hole for the timing plug was ripped up pretty back, so I welded in a patch and used the clear plastic plug. It's easy to pop out from the inside.

I had to grind a little off the fuel block off plate for flaps bar. Also replaced that rubber grommet for the bar support. I don't remember where I saw it, but I liked the idea of the notch in the side of the air flaps bar.

That's probably the last of the DDB alternators, been saving it for awhile.

The tin was painted with MS silver then SEM Hot Rod Black. The silver stuff is just MS silver. I had to trim both pieces around the manifolds just a little.

The Exhaust was ceramic coated black with Cilgen, heater boxes are ceramic too.

I didn't use the nylock nuts for the oil cooler as in the picture, just used regular nuts with blue loctite.

I like how Berg puts nuts on the needle valves so I did it too. Much easier to get at.

Spark plug wires are too short. I used the Bosch 09004 kit. I ordered some copper core wire and will just use the boots and ends from the Bosch wires. Also, I thought I ordered a blue coil, it's not blue though. Still a 12v Bosch and checks out with a meter so I guess it's ok.

Still need to add the orange ducting for the fresh air to heaterboxes, but need to get some clamps first.

Maybe do the break in next weekend. :)

Sun Aug 14, 2011 11:34 am

Very nice !
one thing I am going to change when I pull my motor this winter is that coil location.
I have been tweaking on the carbs lately and that coil gets in the way of getting in beside the carb on the drivers side, and it gets warm too.

I am going to move mine to the bolt beside the breather tower.

Sun Aug 14, 2011 12:40 pm

Wow, that motor is way to pretty to install into a car, needs to in a showcase :wink:

Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:45 pm

^^^^^
Yeah, what he said. That is a sweet engine dude! 8)

Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:58 pm

WOW. I'd wish my engine looked like that!!

what sealer did you use between the case halves? looks pretty nice!

Sun Aug 14, 2011 5:20 pm

looks like Kuril, real good stuff.

Sun Aug 14, 2011 5:28 pm

That is amazing attention to detail. Awesome!

Sun Aug 14, 2011 8:38 pm

Thanks for all the comments! I'm pretty happy with how the engine has turned out. Getting excited to run it.

As for the case sealer, I don't know. The longblock was built by CPR. I do have some Permatex white sealer that I used on the full flow fittings that is almost identical if not the same. It comes in a small bottle with a built in brush. Got it at the local FLAPS.

So here's what got done today. First, a big thanks to my friend Lester for helping with all the bodywork and primer. We finally got the body in epoxy primer this evening and used SPI epoxy primer. I shot a lot of the underside and Lester did the rest; he uses Iwata paint guns, Wow! what a difference! The primer is still wet in the pics.

I also finished up the rear brakes, put on the rear 205's and bolted it up to the pan. The hard lines are a little longer than the original ones so I had to bend them in kind of an S shape. Now time to start on the front end.

Sun Aug 14, 2011 8:42 pm

W1K1 wrote: Very nice !
one thing I am going to change when I pull my motor this winter is that coil location.
I have been tweaking on the carbs lately and that coil gets in the way of getting in beside the carb on the drivers side, and it gets warm too.

I am going to move mine to the bolt beside the breather tower.

That's a good idea, when I get my new copper wire I'll have enough to move the coil to the other side.

Sun Aug 14, 2011 9:42 pm

:D super nice body and pan work.

Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:56 am

Very nice choice on the Ram-FLo air cleaners. Also like how you set up the linkage on the back (or front) side of the carbs. There's plenty of room for it back there. Makes for a nice clean set up!

Maybe I missed it... Is this a type-4 oil cooler? It looks nice & fat! Or maybe its been a while since I looked at my type-3 cooler. :? A type-4 cooler would definitely make for a nice mod..

Mon Aug 15, 2011 9:09 am

thats way too small to be a t4 cooler, but it would be a sweet mod, just need to modify the tin and tap it for a oil pressure sender.

Mon Aug 15, 2011 11:52 am

supaninja wrote: thats way too small to be a t4 cooler, but it would be a sweet mod, just need to modify the tin and tap it for a oil pressure sender.

Thats what I was thinking. Plenty of room for one too.