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Sat Oct 22, 2011 7:43 pm

Valves adjusted, carburetor cleaned adjusted, points and timing. I am scratching my head at this point and any help is appreciated. Link below for my engine running and stalling on acceleration.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjBlmZ14C-4&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Sat Oct 22, 2011 10:06 pm

Sounds like it's running out of fuel once you take it off idle. You pulled the jets and emulsion tube and checked them? Another suspect is the passage to the venturi; plugged or leaking air will kill or reduce fuel supply.

Paul

Sun Oct 23, 2011 4:23 pm

^x2 plus double check of float level.

Fri Jan 13, 2012 2:56 pm

Thanks for the info and pics on the roof job! You give me hope that it can be done. I have a 59 lowlight with a crushed roof beyond repair. Not sure if I would tackle it myself though as I know nothing about welding.

Fri Jan 13, 2012 4:29 pm

Go for it Shawn, it is not as difficult as it looks. I never touched a welder in my life before I did this, just follow the instructions that comes with the welder, measure twice and cut once and you will be fine.

send me a message if you have any questions about it.

On another note the problem I was having with engine stalling on acceleration was due to intake manifold air leak from the rubber boots.

Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:32 am

Oh I got questions! How did you line up the windows? Did you use templates?

Sat Jan 14, 2012 9:18 am

Shawn wrote: Oh I got questions! How did you line up the windows? Did you use templates?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/1960_k...l_Body.pdf

Section A-72

Sat Jan 14, 2012 11:14 am

I did the pillars cut exactly as in the manual that John posted. I used the windshield as a template, did a lot of reference marks and measurement before cutting the pillars to compare and adjust before welding the replacement roof.

If you are working alone get you bunch of C clamps and at least 4 ratchet straps to pull the 4 pillars outward and in the correct position before you start welding.

take your time and try to have fun,

Sat Jan 14, 2012 5:28 pm

Thanks karghia74! You make it sound easy! Maybe I'm worrying too much. Right now, I'm just gathering as much info as I can, basically, everything from the roof on down is in really good shape. I'll keep in touch.

Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:15 pm

One more thing, close the doors before you start cutting and keep them closed until you are done welding and adjusting the pillars from outside. good luck.

Fri Jan 20, 2012 2:29 pm

Hey karghia74! Just curious, what type of welder did you use? I'm doing some research on welders and welding. Seems like there's a lot to know about MIG's and TIG's and FIG's and JIG's.....

Fri Jan 20, 2012 3:38 pm

lol fig and jig!!
I used a $120 welder from Harbour Freight item #68887 flux wire welder and bought a Lincoln. .035 flux wire from Lowes, it is a better wire than the one that comes with the welder and less spatter.
you can go the MIG route for a better looking and cleaner weld and HF has one for $200 or you can save the money for something else and use an angle grinder to do the cleaning.

the HF welder comes with the mask, just get a good pair of gloves and a heavy hat.

Fri Jan 20, 2012 4:00 pm

I was able to buy a nice near new Hobart Handler MIG on Craigs list, then a bottle for with the gas mix on Craigs list and the Harbor freight cart. I got about $425 into my set up.

Fri Jan 20, 2012 8:01 pm

awsome job there fellow Buckeye!

Tue Jan 24, 2012 1:23 pm

Well after two days of using propane torch, kroil oil and ¾” breaker bar I was able to replace the crank pulley and take the castle nuts out.

I almost gave up on the mother of all nuts, so if you ever find yourself in the same situation just heat the area where the nut meets the drum for 20 min, Kroil oil the heck out of it and repeat. Also locking the wheel with a jimmy bar and using ¾” breaker bar with a long cheater will help as I broke my ½” breaker on the first nut.

Both rear drums were soaked in oil from the transmission and the passenger side was a mix of brake and transmission fluid, wheel bearings are in a very good shape so only seals, calipers and shoes for me for now.

]

Tue Jan 24, 2012 3:00 pm

Wow. Deja Vu. Those castle nuts were a total b!tch to get off! Even with one of those Torque Tools...

Wed Jan 25, 2012 3:27 pm

Shawn wrote: Wow. Deja Vu. Those castle nuts were a total b!tch to get off! Even with one of those Torque Tools...
I used a 3 foot breaker bar with the car on the ground, parking brake on, trans in gear, and the wheel still turned. I was at a friend's shop and they used a 3/4 to 1/1 adapter for their impact socket, and the adapter twisted off as expected. Ended up working at it with an impact wrench for 15 minutes to get the nut free.

Paul

Wed Jan 25, 2012 4:18 pm

l had as much fun getting the crank pulley off my road runner a few years ago.

Thu Jan 26, 2012 4:47 pm

Not completely surprising when we are dealing with 40+ years old hardware, I wonder how many breaker bars, fingers and knuckles met their fate on the shores of the legendary castle nut!!

Got a question, after fixing the intake air leak, replacing the 009 with an SVDA and tuning the 34 PICT 3 the engine is running like a champ however as human I am greedy.

So my question how much improvement will I get from swapping the 34 PICT with dual 40 Weber carbs on my stock 1600? And $ to value is it worth it or should I save my money for something else. All opinions are welcome

Thu Jan 26, 2012 6:47 pm

Dual Webers will wake up even a stock motor, good chance you will get better MPG too...10% improvement?? it will be seat of the pants noticable. You should at the same time (if you dont already have) an extractor exhaust. You can keep the same carbs for different builds...if in the future you build a bigger motor. If I had a choice I would shop for 36 dells, sweet carbs. Have you read this??
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/t1hpeng.htm