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  View original topic: Need a stop plate for my 411
sbritt Mon Apr 18, 2011 9:30 pm

I'm looking for a stop plate for the shifter in my manual 411. The one I currently have is pretty worn out and it has too much play in it. You don't even have to pop the shift knob down to get it in reverse! Does anyone happen to have one to sell or could possibly recommend a good work-around (beside cutting out the center of one from a Beetle and welding it in)?

Thanks so much for all your help and advice!
Stephan

PS. Here's what I need (#11 in the diagram):


hazetguy Tue Apr 19, 2011 10:55 am

do you know/can you provide the VW part number?

Lahti411 Tue Apr 19, 2011 11:08 am

Sbrit, are you sure the front bushing is in good condition? If it's still the original rubbery/worn/cracked part it will make the shifter adjusting really difficult.
Part number for the stop plate is 411 711 149B

sbritt Tue Apr 19, 2011 1:04 pm

The bushing seems okay, but the stop plate is really worn out, specifically on the left side (the rail for 1st & 2nd gear). There's not much of a lip left, so it easily goes into reverse without having to push the shifter down.

Mike Fisher Wed Apr 20, 2011 6:02 am

If it's worn out you can't hurt it by welding/grinding/filing it back to a good working order.

Lahti411 Wed Apr 20, 2011 7:14 am

If i remember correctly, there shouldn't be any lip on the left side of the stop plate. I think it's supposed to be asymmetrical. You need that lip on the right side as it acts as a lock for the reverse gear. The pivot point for the stick is where the number 7 points. The small bulge underneath it is the "lock" for the reverse. When you push the gear lever down the bulge passes that locking lip in the stop plate and you are able to turn the gear lever to the left (at the same time the lover part of the gear stick turns to right).

sbritt Wed Apr 20, 2011 3:24 pm

Not having another Type 4 stop plate on hand, I can only compare it to one from a Beetle. The lip on the left/driver's side (for reverse/first/second) is about half the height of the stop plate on a Beetle. This is why I thought it might be worn down, which is why it's so easy to put it in reverse (without even having to pop the shifter down) and possibly why it has so much slop. There also appears to be lip on the right/passenger side (for third/fourth) that's been chewed-up and worn down quite a bit. And finally, I noticed that bottom of the plate is actually bent and cracking near the top.

Does anyone have photos of a Type 4 stop plate in good condition for me to compare mine to?








Lahti411 Thu Apr 21, 2011 2:26 am

Well, that stop plate really is worn out :shock:
But still, i'd say it's not the left side of the plate that's causing the problems but the right side which is obvioulsy cracked. I hope you can source a new stop plate somewhere. I have one extra, but i have to save it form my own project.

sbritt Thu Apr 21, 2011 2:45 am

Let me make sure I'm getting this correct. The way I have taken the photos is the way the stop plate came out of my 411. With the cracked rail on the left and the raised lip (with the worn-out side) on the right. When you said the "right side is cracked," this makes me wonder. Is it in backwards?

Lahti411 Thu Apr 21, 2011 3:03 am

I've marked the right side on these photos:


As you can see from the black and white pic taken from some manual, the lip on the right should be thicker. Yours is obviuosly missing some material. If i have understood the shifetrs function correctly, the lip on the right is the lock for the reverse gear. My opinion is that the stop plate was installed the right way into your car, but it's in such a terrible shape, it's not doing it's job.

sbritt Fri Apr 29, 2011 7:53 pm

Daniel from Volkswagen Classic Parts in Wolfsburg:

http://www.vw-classicparts.de

was able to track down a stop plate for me. Now I know just how damaged mine was! I can't wait to put this in my 411 and see what type of difference it makes.


raygreenwood Sat Apr 30, 2011 12:21 pm

Before you put in the new plate.....go through the driveline adjustment procedures I have laid out. The cracks in the forward corners are common from poor adjustment which requires harder shifting force. Ray

sbritt Sat Apr 30, 2011 4:49 pm

Thanks for the tip, Ray. Do you have a link to the driveline adjustment procedures or can you re-post? I appreciate all your help and advice!



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