TheSamba.com :: View topic - emu's engine rebuild

Mon May 02, 2011 1:45 am

This is what I mean, when the pressure plate is not tight, even with the tool inserted there is some movement in all directions of the clutch disk, so I am unsure where exactly it should be when I tighten the pressure plate. Does it have to be exact or rough?

Mon May 02, 2011 2:41 am

center it the best you can. it will work itself where it needs to be

Mon May 02, 2011 3:57 am

Agreed ^^
I don't even own the tool and been doing this since the 60's. I just eyeball it and tighten the Pressure Plate when it looks centered. Don't over think this one.

Dave

Mon May 02, 2011 8:48 am

Dkjeev Eye of an eagle and ?
Center it best you can Emu tighten it down evenly 1/2 turn on bolt's at a time .
I usually use this time to run 10.8 bolt's < but have to be torqued as a harder bolt can raise thread's on the flywheel for an uneven matte surface if over tightend .
Now as to silicone ?
Has to be used with a brain in certain place's applied properly .
The oil screen is not one of these place's except for a fine line on the plate itself .
As an example ?
Or under Cylinder's !
Especially when building a 90.5 motor the useage of Hi Temp orange silicone is the only sealant to be used .
Maybe Hi temp black ultra Im just a stickler for the Orange stuff that shouldnt be confused with sensor safe red .
The reason that silicone use under the cylinders on 90.5 bore motor's is neccessary are simple .
When you bore the case the raised up cylinder casting where the cylinder matte's can and will become thinner between the bore hole and case saver .
So thin in fact that it can become razor sharp between the case bore hole and case saver .
The fix here is any time you have a case bored to accept the larger 90.5 cylinders is to remove the Cylinder stud's and have the case center lined deck'ed .
This tend's to thicken or widen the case area between the larger bore hole and case saver .
Yett it is still some what thin in this area .
This is why Gene Berge swore by the useage of High Temp silicone under the cylinders .
You need the flexibility of silicone as the cylinder will often matte to the case saver itself .
2 different metal's and expansion , xtra heat , larger bore more reciprocate-ing mass , and usually translate's in too more crank vibration under #1 cylinder where 1776cc or 90.5 bore motor's are prone to leak oil .
Per the urbann legend that all 1776cc motor's leak oil ? :twisted:
steel backed bearing , Shuffle pinning case's , counter weighted crank's, spinn balancing are all more or less attempt's to tame crank vibration in the large center main bearing of the cover side of the case .
Make sense ?
Just because you find a motor ruined with silicone or teflon tape doesnt mean you shouldnt use it .
Just mean's it was used wrongly and or for the wrong application as inccorrect useage of silicone or teflon tape can and will wreck your motor .
But correct useage of teflon tape and High temp silicone will build a better mouse trapp .
Sean

Mon May 02, 2011 12:28 pm

Okay, thanks people! All done.

I test fitted the fan shroud with all the thermostat linkage, and the bar doesn't clear the oil cooler studs at all with the hoover bit installed. I need to remove the hoover bit, install the shround most way down, then install the bit again. Hope I don't have the wrong bar!

Mon May 02, 2011 2:50 pm

emu88 wrote: Okay, thanks people! All done.

I test fitted the fan shroud with all the thermostat linkage, and the bar doesn't clear the oil cooler studs at all with the hoover bit installed. I need to remove the hoover bit, install the shround most way down, then install the bit again. Hope I don't have the wrong bar!

You have to install the bar after the shroud is in place. The clips are easy to remove and replace.

Mon May 02, 2011 11:35 pm

VeedubPastor wrote: emu88 wrote: Okay, thanks people! All done.

I test fitted the fan shroud with all the thermostat linkage, and the bar doesn't clear the oil cooler studs at all with the hoover bit installed. I need to remove the hoover bit, install the shround most way down, then install the bit again. Hope I don't have the wrong bar!

You have to install the bar after the shroud is in place. The clips are easy to remove and replace.
Aha! Thank you.

Does the hook on the metal line that screws into the thermostat have to hook onto the underside of the flaps facing the flywheel or the other way?

Tue May 03, 2011 1:19 am

Can anyone tell me how to or if I can/should remove the copper wire shown here? The paper is REALLY flaky but I believe it serves a purpose, how can I clean the inside of the body and re-wrap the wire?

How can I get those two big screws off, it says they are polar screws so I dunno if they should be removed, but it seems they are holding the wire to the body.

Advice appreciated!

Tue May 03, 2011 3:35 am

Leave the generator well enough alone. You've got precision wound fields, coated and baked. Don't go messing with them without knowledge of them and the ability to repair any damage that happens. The wires are small and fragile as are the connections.
If you must clean it, use a soft brush and compressed air.

Now, put it carefully back together, make sure no wires are displaced and get caught in the armature as it spins.

Dave

Sent from my iPad

Tue May 03, 2011 3:53 am

djkeev wrote: Leave the generator well enough alone. You've got precision wound fields, coated and baked. Don't go messing with them without knowledge of them and the ability to repair any damage that happens. The wires are small and fragile as are the connections.
If you must clean it, use a soft brush and compressed air.

Now, put it carefully back together, make sure no wires are displaced and get caught in the armature as it spins.

Dave

Sent from my iPad
Hmm I see. One of the connections has come off, I suppose I should just pull a bit more of the wire and reattach it under the screw? Also, is it fine to leave the exposed wire?

Tue May 03, 2011 5:03 am

emu88 wrote: djkeev wrote: Leave the generator well enough alone. You've got precision wound fields, coated and baked. Don't go messing with them without knowledge of them and the ability to repair any damage that happens. The wires are small and fragile as are the connections.
If you must clean it, use a soft brush and compressed air.

Now, put it carefully back together, make sure no wires are displaced and get caught in the armature as it spins.

Dave

Sent from my iPad
Hmm I see. One of the connections has come off, I suppose I should just pull a bit more of the wire and reattach it under the screw? Also, is it fine to leave the exposed wire?

Yes it is ok that they are exposed Just make sure it is all clear of moving parts. Be very very careful about "pulling" more wire. You can easily end up purchasing a generator here if you aren't careful.

Dave

Tue May 03, 2011 5:51 am

emu88 wrote: VeedubPastor wrote: emu88 wrote: Okay, thanks people! All done.

I test fitted the fan shroud with all the thermostat linkage, and the bar doesn't clear the oil cooler studs at all with the hoover bit installed. I need to remove the hoover bit, install the shround most way down, then install the bit again. Hope I don't have the wrong bar!

You have to install the bar after the shroud is in place. The clips are easy to remove and replace.
Aha! Thank you.

Does the hook on the metal line that screws into the thermostat have to hook onto the underside of the flaps facing the flywheel or the other way?

I can't remember right off hand which way I installed it, but I remember thinking that there was something that made it self-explanatory. Maybe the clip would only go on with it installed correctly or something like that... It has a bend in it that should make it line up with the hole in the cylinder head through which it passes. If you have it backwards, it won't go through without binding. I had to grind some of the casting slop off the head passage to get mine to operate without rubbing. Pic borrowed from the gallery:

It should move freely or you risk it binding shut and cooking your newly rebuilt beauty.

Tue May 03, 2011 6:03 am

Another pic borrowed from the gallery:
(searching the gallery is a helpful skill. Hint, hint...)
:)

Tue May 03, 2011 6:22 am

Thanks Vdubpastor that was very helpful, have done it now. There was a notch in the shroud that as you said, made it self explanatory.

djkeev wrote: emu88 wrote: djkeev wrote: Leave the generator well enough alone. You've got precision wound fields, coated and baked. Don't go messing with them without knowledge of them and the ability to repair any damage that happens. The wires are small and fragile as are the connections.
If you must clean it, use a soft brush and compressed air.

Now, put it carefully back together, make sure no wires are displaced and get caught in the armature as it spins.

Dave

Sent from my iPad
Hmm I see. One of the connections has come off, I suppose I should just pull a bit more of the wire and reattach it under the screw? Also, is it fine to leave the exposed wire?

Yes it is ok that they are exposed Just make sure it is all clear of moving parts. Be very very careful about "pulling" more wire. You can easily end up purchasing a generator here if you aren't careful.

Dave
Well, one of the soldered connections on the underside of the DF pole has broken off. I pulled very carefully on the bit of wire to get a bit more lnegth to it and am going to solder it back on, or just wrap it tightly. Why is 'pulling' bad?

Tue May 03, 2011 6:36 am

I took the below photo to show what I intend to do to avoid pulling more of the packed wire. I used some twisted together copper strands from a regular wire and threaded them through the hole in the solder which is still strong. Would it be fine if I just twisted tis to the old copper wire that broke off?

Tue May 03, 2011 7:05 am

Hmmmm... That may hold for a while. It would be better to use the proper gauge solid wire and solder everything back together. I would worry that the stranded wire would flex with normal engine vibration and eventually break. You need a beefy gun to solder to a bolt head. A torch would probably be better. If you don't have solid wire, double or triple up the stranded wire and tin it all together to make a solid wire of suitable gauge. That should be ok for such a short piece. Definely solder - don't just twist them together. Twist them together first to make a good mechanical connection and then comepletely saturate it with the solder.

Tue May 03, 2011 7:11 am

VeedubPastor wrote: Hmmmm... That may hold for a while. It would be better to use the proper gauge solid wire and solder everything back together. I would worry that the stranded wire would flex with normal engine vibration and eventually break. You need a beefy gun to solder to a bolt head. A torch would probably be better. If you don't have solid wire, double or triple up the stranded wire and tin it all together to make a solid wire of suitable gauge. That should be ok for such a short piece. Definely solder - don't just twist them together. Twist them together first to make a good mechanical connection and then comepletely saturate it with the solder.
OK! I shall do this and post photos.

Tue May 03, 2011 7:31 am

VeedubPastor wrote: Hmmmm... That may hold for a while. It would be better to use the proper gauge solid wire and solder everything back together. I would worry that the stranded wire would flex with normal engine vibration and eventually break. You need a beefy gun to solder to a bolt head. A torch would probably be better. If you don't have solid wire, double or triple up the stranded wire and tin it all together to make a solid wire of suitable gauge. That should be ok for such a short piece. Definely solder - don't just twist them together. Twist them together first to make a good mechanical connection and then comepletely saturate it with the solder.

Actually to muddy the waters for you, stranded copper wire withstands vibration much better than a solid wire does. This is why auto's have stranded wire and in any application that involves flex has stranded wires, for example the cord feeding electricity to your table lamp or computer.

Stranded wire gauge will be a tad larger in diameter than solid wire for there is air space around each strand taking up space.

Dave

Tue May 03, 2011 7:43 am

That's good!

Well I have done the twisting together, The part passing through the old solder is as thick as the original wire, but I wrapped round it with much more stranded wire and overlapped it all. What do you think? Fine to solder that all together?

Tue May 03, 2011 9:14 am

Give it a go! Everything to gain, little to lose!!

Dave