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Fri Jun 15, 2012 3:56 pm

sounds like the air pressure leaking down after the piston creates compression....pretty normal if it is.

Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:20 pm

Is there anything directly below the parcel shelf tin over on the right side in the fuel tank area? I'm considering using a couple of L brackets and some short (1.5cm?) tek screws to help secure the cabinetry. Would this be a bad idea?
I just started mounting the cabinets. No I don't have a floor yet. Minor detail. There is only one part ie the long face which actually sits on the floor. I have that spaced with a bit of wood for now. I found a wider bit the same thickness which I may use as a spacer for an L bracket with bolts through the floor. That way when the floor goes in it can use the same holes.

or where it comes to the parcel shelf area should I just stick to screwing the brackets to the wall?

Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:53 pm

RatCamper wrote: Is there anything directly below the parcel shelf tin over on the right side in the fuel tank area? I'm considering using a couple of L brackets and some short (1.5cm?) tek screws to help secure the cabinetry. Would this be a bad idea?
I just started mounting the cabinets. No I don't have a floor yet. Minor detail. There is only one part ie the long face which actually sits on the floor. I have that spaced with a bit of wood for now. I found a wider bit the same thickness which I may use as a spacer for an L bracket with bolts through the floor. That way when the floor goes in it can use the same holes.

or where it comes to the parcel shelf area should I just stick to screwing the brackets to the wall?
There's nothing you'll hit at the extreme right, the tank is ~ 300mm+ from the right wall and even then it's almost 100mm below the hat shelf floor, search engine out or fuel tank in the gallery if you want a look.

Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:38 am

Do the spark plug threads in the 041 heads on my engine have a 1/2 or 3/4 inch reach. I have W8As in there and am 99% sure they are 1/2 inch reach plugs. Do I have an extra "combustion chamber" of my own (moronic) design and is this fixable after a 2000 mile 'expirement'.
Thanks all,
Lois

Mon Jun 18, 2012 7:50 am

fool me, don't get fooled again".
OK, I made a little depth guage out of bent wire and EITHER Brasillian 041 heads are 1/2 inch deep threads, (and stock head wise, in my catalogs only the FI heads SAY they are 3/4 inch deep) my invoice is wrong and I don't have 041 heads. The guy at the machine shop (where we got a pair of s/p heads for another engine blasted with walnut shells) tried (sucessfully for a while) to convince me I had INVENTED the 1837cc. This is why I love to buy stuff ONLINE.
Lois

Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:31 pm

here's a tough one:

im converting to Ljet in my 72 bus. i picked up a later accelerator cable, jumping to the conclusion that it would be all i needed.

but since i assume the gas pedal linkage arrangement is different from 72 to 79, i figure this cable will be the wrong length,

can anyone confirm this dimension - how far out, toward the rear of the bus, does the cable extend through the firewall? (or/also, how far out from the sheath?) when the gas pedal is all the way up?

I'd like to have this set up before i install the engine....

thanks :D

Tue Jun 19, 2012 11:06 pm

72 transporter 2L engine, lost the muffler last week ,replaced it yesterday with a stock muffler and now it idles slower? My husband says he will help me adjust it . I just wonder why it changed ?
It had a muffler but a different kind that had like some pipes then the muffler - this new one is a long muffler?

But the sound is so sweet now ,Just wanted to add that :D

Amy

Tue Jun 19, 2012 11:13 pm

La.2Ak. wrote: 72 transporter 2L engine, lost the muffler last week ,replaced it yesterday with a stock muffler and now it idles slower? My husband says he will help me adjust it . I just wonder why it changed ?
It had a muffler but a different kind that had like some pipes then the muffler - this new one is a long muffler?

But the sound is so sweet now ,Just wanted to add that :D

Amy

if the back pressure created by the muffler is greater, the engine could have a slightly harder time idling. what did you buy, and what did you have before? pictures?

Tue Jun 19, 2012 11:45 pm

old pipes left over from muffler that fell off.

this is the tail pipe of the new muffler

it's really long . I don't know the name of the muffler ,just that it's a stock muffler? I can try to take better pictures ?

Amy

Stuartzickefoose wrote: La.2Ak. wrote: 72 transporter 2L engine, lost the muffler last week ,replaced it yesterday with a stock muffler and now it idles slower? My husband says he will help me adjust it . I just wonder why it changed ?
It had a muffler but a different kind that had like some pipes then the muffler - this new one is a long muffler?

But the sound is so sweet now ,Just wanted to add that :D

Amy

if the back pressure created by the muffler is greater, the engine could have a slightly harder time idling. what did you buy, and what did you have before? pictures?

Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:06 am

rustbus wrote: here's a tough one:

im converting to Ljet in my 72 bus. i picked up a later accelerator cable, jumping to the conclusion that it would be all i needed.

but since i assume the gas pedal linkage arrangement is different from 72 to 79, i figure this cable will be the wrong length,

can anyone confirm this dimension - how far out, toward the rear of the bus, does the cable extend through the firewall? (or/also, how far out from the sheath?) when the gas pedal is all the way up?

I'd like to have this set up before i install the engine....

thanks :D
The gas pedal location and bottom of the lever are in essentially the same place on all models, the L-jet throttle lever is further forward than the carb lever so it uses a shorter cable with a different end for clamping in the lever. I suspect a late throttle cable would bolt right in but a worst case scenario would be to shorten a 72 cable to a custom length with something like they use on universal buggy cables.

La.2Ak. wrote: 72 transporter 2L engine, lost the muffler last week ,replaced it yesterday with a stock muffler and now it idles slower? My husband says he will help me adjust it . I just wonder why it changed ?
It had a muffler but a different kind that had like some pipes then the muffler - this new one is a long muffler?

But the sound is so sweet now ,Just wanted to add that

As Stu mentions the stock mufff likely has a little more back pressure, turn the idle up a little and enjoy the peace and quiet.

Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:28 am

It is easy to shorten a too long cable. I just make a loop in the cable and use a small cable clamp to hold it there. I do this between the bellcrank at the pedal and where the cable enters the tube so it is hidden and protected.

Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:56 am

thanks Busdaddy, Wildthings, for the help!

since i have both cables i'll make it work.

Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:58 am

Couldn't find a topic of transmission types and gear ratios for the various years.... Could someone shed some light on the subject on the pros and cons of each?

Found what I needed... http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Transaxle.html

Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:05 pm

Hello, My S.Q.: What is the proper bolt size/dimensions for the front belly pan bolt bores? I just picked up a belly pan, and need some enlightenment. Thanks

Fri Jun 22, 2012 1:28 am

timo78 wrote: Hello, My S.Q.: What is the proper bolt size/dimensions for the front belly pan bolt bores? I just picked up a belly pan, and need some enlightenment. Thanks
I think you mean a splash pan. Belly pans are welded on and between the front and rear wheels.
Someone just asked your same question and got the answers a couple days ago. Look back thru all the topics and you will see it. :wink:

Fri Jun 22, 2012 6:14 pm

^Thanks DBM^, with the proper naming criteria I found this from Karl [rip kind sir]

Karl wrote: On a 68-71 and maybe later, my 68-71 parts book shows two fasteners for the pan:

N 13 890 2, M6.3 13 sheet metal screw, takes 6

N 10 210 7, M6 x 1.0 x 10, hex bolt, takes 4

I'll give it a whirl once this 60degree June downpour lets up. :(

edit: fyi evidently later years are not the same, or maybe it just this bus. The four hanger bolts were 4-10mm course thread sheet metal screws, not machined threads. And look like this

Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:09 pm

Stupid question: The pilot bearing for my '76 2.0L FI motor should be in the end of the crank shaft and the felt ring on the rear of the flywheel facing the crank, correct? Just a little confused because the Bentley and Wilson books both talk about the bearing being pressed into the flywheel and the Bentley shows the felt ring on the front of the flywheel facing the gearbox. This is more of a clarification than anything else.

Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:50 pm

Gearbox end, no dirt comes from the closed crank recess but alot of crap can come from the somewhat open bellhousing area with that gritty clutch making friction dust, the felt stops that from getting in the bearing.

Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:26 am

busdaddy wrote: Gearbox end, no dirt comes from the closed crank recess but alot of crap can come from the somewhat open bellhousing area with that gritty clutch making friction dust, the felt stops that from getting in the bearing.

Hmm. I tried the felt on the gearbox side but it's nowhere close to fitting. It seats perfectly on the crank side though.

Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:39 am

AB westy nut wrote: busdaddy wrote: Gearbox end, no dirt comes from the closed crank recess but alot of crap can come from the somewhat open bellhousing area with that gritty clutch making friction dust, the felt stops that from getting in the bearing.

Hmm. I tried the felt on the gearbox side but it's nowhere close to fitting. It seats perfectly on the crank side though.
How about some reading?: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search..._chars=200