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geoffwg Tue Sep 27, 2011 10:04 pm

got a little bit done today.






i still have too go back and straighten every thing up


i hate too say this but my cage is not exactly centered, its about an inch off. :roll:
this wasn't really a problem till now since im running tubing to the beam.
and now its throwing off my measurements.



passenger side



driver side

:oops:



so remember kids measure twice cut once :wink:

kx125str99 Sat Oct 01, 2011 9:38 pm

what are you gonna do for spindles?

motorbreath53 Mon Oct 03, 2011 12:13 pm

Quote: i hate too say this but my cage is not exactly centered, its about an inch off.

Thats why I measure with lenghts of twine. It doesn't seem as bad when you find things a bit "off" :lol:

As long as the beam and torsion housing are square and level, life is good.

Car looks awesome man.

geoffwg Mon Oct 03, 2011 5:38 pm

thanks very much and i defiantly plan on using twine, i have a feeling thats going to help a whole bunch in these next weeks. :D

as for spindles i might be purchasing some combo spindles but i would rather not shell out the cash :?
or i might go with the latest rage "HD" spindles and knuckles
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/AC412025.html

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/AC412020.html

update

i tied my A pillar into my body










i also did some bracing to on my beam support nothing too significant i will put up pics on the next posting.

perhaps the best news i that a good buddy of mine found a old Toyota truck in his back yard.

which conveniently has a 22RE engine that i may purchase if i can get it to fire :D :D :D :twisted:

he says the truck has been sitting for a few years, but before it sat the engine was gone through and ran so we will see :D

geoffwg Mon Oct 03, 2011 5:42 pm

oh yeah! here is the bender i am a quarter owner of.


pcoedirt Mon Oct 03, 2011 6:33 pm

man that thing is badass i want one so bad youre so freaking awesome i literally wanna be like you one day please teach me the way of the warrior. :o :o :o

motorbreath53 Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:52 am

looks like your friends are as relentless as mine are. :lol:

geoffwg Tue Oct 04, 2011 4:16 pm

naa i just get that some times :wink:


hahaha but thats my future employer/ sponsor/ bestie/ project funder :lol:
im just glad he hasn't seen your car yet :shock:

some day young grass hoppaa you will learn the ways

today i did a wee bit




geoffwg Sun Oct 09, 2011 8:45 am

ran some more tubing



i mocked up a temporary bumper just so i could see where every thing was going too be.



looks like i can fit a spare in there :D



the fiberglass will come down a few inches when i notch it..
with all that room up front i think i will be trying to mount a radiator up there... but we will see

geoffwg Sat Oct 22, 2011 6:18 pm

i got away from the front of the car and decided to pull my engine and trans to clean them and prep for selling.



i guess i have a bad seal on my trans, she was leaking from the passenger side drive flange.



this is my rear set up i don't think i`ve posted pics yet.






i have been thinking about my options for my motor situation.....
and with all the stuff i will need too do too my bug to adapt to the 22re, i was thinking that i would just bump up my 1600 to a 1776 or bigger. :roll:

maybe go that rout, then later on do a conversion

just thought these were some cool pics :wink:






pcoedirt Tue Oct 25, 2011 1:17 pm

man i cant wait to get back and see this thing looks like its coming along pretty quick at least than this summer hahah only 3-5 more years until i can start funding. :wink: haha

The Phil Tue Oct 25, 2011 7:36 pm

I say if you're going to spend the money on a new VWAC motor, go with a 1915. Great motor.
enough to get you around with your massive arms and whatnot.

geoffwg Wed Oct 26, 2011 11:01 am

do you think it would be less costly to just build up my 1600 too a 1835 or 1915?

i haven't torn to far into my block yet. i do like the idea of building up my own engine though but i am not too sure exactly how to do this. im guessing i would need new sleeves, pistons, rods, heads, etc...


on the other end of the car i did a little more tube work.










"3-5 more years until i can start funding"
thanks philip and ill be waitin for ya :lol:

The Phil Wed Oct 26, 2011 11:39 am

from what i understand, if your 4 head studs are 10mm, you can only build up to a 1776. If they are 8mm then you can go up to any size.

If you do use your block, you will change the piston jugs, pistons. maybe new rods, and new bearings, and new heads. Also, depending on your current size carb, a new carb.

O, another thing, it also depends on how many times your block has been line bored. But, that's up to your mechanics digression.

for parts alone, a 1915 will cost you around the $7-900 mark.
I built my 1641 for about $550 about a year ago.

geoffwg Wed Oct 26, 2011 3:01 pm

thanks for the info :)

i believe my engine was actually built to a 1641 right before i bought it

as for my carb its one of those empi progressive carbs. it was running pretty rich before i parked it. i had too clean my plugs every few days, so it definitely needed adjusting.

i will have too check the size of my head studs when i get home.
do the sizes depend on the year of engine?

The Phil Thu Oct 27, 2011 11:06 am

Quote: do the sizes depend on the year of engine?

You know, I'm not actually sure. I don't even know the year of my case. All I did was look through my buggy's shop case collection and picked out a good one :D and went from there.

if you go with a 1915 you will probably need a single 44, or dual 40s.
But, i'm not positive on that.

Bashr52 Fri Oct 28, 2011 10:02 am

The Phil wrote: from what i understand, if your 4 head studs are 10mm, you can only build up to a 1776. If they are 8mm then you can go up to any size.

If you do use your block, you will change the piston jugs, pistons. maybe new rods, and new bearings, and new heads. Also, depending on your current size carb, a new carb.

O, another thing, it also depends on how many times your block has been line bored. But, that's up to your mechanics digression.

for parts alone, a 1915 will cost you around the $7-900 mark.
I built my 1641 for about $550 about a year ago.

I had my old 2017 on a 10mm stud case. Its not really the studs that are the limiting factor, but rather the cases (dual vs single relief). If you are thinking about pulling your block apart and staying vw, a stroker motor is the way to go. Even a mild build will give you way more torque than a 1600, which you will want for off roading and turning bigger tires. The ideal block you want is a later dual relief with the deep studded #3. I just built a 2085 on one, and am in the process of doing a 2232 on another for my Thing project.

Whats the engine code on your current engine? You may have a good block to start with already.

The Phil Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:36 pm

Bashr52 wrote: The Phil wrote: from what i understand, if your 4 head studs are 10mm, you can only build up to a 1776. If they are 8mm then you can go up to any size.

If you do use your block, you will change the piston jugs, pistons. maybe new rods, and new bearings, and new heads. Also, depending on your current size carb, a new carb.

O, another thing, it also depends on how many times your block has been line bored. But, that's up to your mechanics digression.

for parts alone, a 1915 will cost you around the $7-900 mark.
I built my 1641 for about $550 about a year ago.

I had my old 2017 on a 10mm stud case. Its not really the studs that are the limiting factor, but rather the cases (dual vs single relief). If you are thinking about pulling your block apart and staying vw, a stroker motor is the way to go. Even a mild build will give you way more torque than a 1600, which you will want for off roading and turning bigger tires. The ideal block you want is a later dual relief with the deep studded #3. I just built a 2085 on one, and am in the process of doing a 2232 on another for my Thing project.

Whats the engine code on your current engine? You may have a good block to start with already.

Ahh, Okay. That's what i was told from one of the guys from my buggy shop. I shoulda asked the main guy. Thanks for clarifying.

geoffwg Mon Oct 31, 2011 8:47 am



is this it?

the code on the bottom of the case was 10 vw 111.101.101 B then the other side was 10 vw 111.101.102 B

is there a point when building the engine up that the engine might not be piratical to be a every day driver, or might loose its dependability?

and thanks for the help guys

thext94 Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:35 am

From what I've heard you would want to go with a full-flow oil cooling system once you go over 1776 to prevent overheating. Not sure if you were planning one anyway, but just a thought



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