TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sat Jul 30, 2011 9:31 pm

I didn't buy these yet and I am sure they come with instructions but how would one wire one of these up to work with both the tail light and the braking light? I am planning on ordering 2 pairs, 2 for turn signals, and 2 for brake light/tail light.

Sat Jul 30, 2011 11:12 pm

i used a trailer light converter so one dual filament light can work for all 3 functions brake turn and tail.

Sat Jul 30, 2011 11:30 pm

JonF wrote: i used a trailer light converter so one dual filament light can work for all 3 functions brake turn and tail.

Thats a good idea Jon.. where can I find on of those? :)

Sun Jul 31, 2011 1:31 am

i got mine from auto zone, but all your local part houses should have it. i have even seen them at walmart before. look around where all of the trailer wiring, lights and plugs are and you will find it.

Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:20 am

If you are going to use two sets its quite simple.... IF these lamp have dual filament bulbs (or should have)...One set of filaments is dim and one bright.... For the tail/marker lamps you can simply wire dim filaments to together and to tail/marker light circuit. The brighter filament go to stop and turn circuits... Use one (of the two) lamp holder for stop and one for turn on each side....

Dale

Sun Jul 31, 2011 10:09 am

JonF wrote: i got mine from auto zone, but all your local part houses should have it. i have even seen them at walmart before. look around where all of the trailer wiring, lights and plugs are and you will find it.

Next time I'm there I'll have to look for one. What do they look like just so I know? I googled them but came up with a ton of different things..

Sun Jul 31, 2011 10:16 am

Dale M. wrote: If you are going to use two sets its quite simple.... IF these lamp have dual filament bulbs (or should have)...One set of filaments is dim and one bright.... For the tail/marker lamps you can simply wire dim filaments to together and to tail/marker light circuit. The brighter filament go to stop and turn circuits... Use one (of the two) lamp holder for stop and one for turn on each side....

Dale

So you're saying that I can have 1 set of lights for STOP and TURN SIGNAL and one for just running/tail lights?

Sun Jul 31, 2011 12:28 pm

yes thats what dale is saying. you can use both dim light filaments as tail, and then one bright one for stop and one for turn. i thought about doing it like that for a long time but decided i like the way the lights worked with the converter.

btw this is the converter i used
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Hopki...43546_0_0_

Sun Jul 31, 2011 9:07 pm

alexvw wrote: Dale M. wrote: If you are going to use two sets its quite simple.... IF these lamp have dual filament bulbs (or should have)...One set of filaments is dim and one bright.... For the tail/marker lamps you can simply wire dim filaments to together and to tail/marker light circuit. The brighter filament go to stop and turn circuits... Use one (of the two) lamp holder for stop and one for turn on each side....

Dale

So you're saying that I can have 1 set of lights for STOP and TURN SIGNAL and one for just running/tail lights?

You have to be careful here as how you describe "One set of lights".... Some lamps like ones pictured have a single filament bulb and and some take a dual filament bulb.... Most desirable is lamp unit that takes dual filament bulb.... As I described and you phrase would be one set of lamps (one on each side ) can be a tail /marker lamp and STOP lamp... Second set of lamps can be tail/marker (yes they can double up) and be TURN SIGNAL lamps....

OR you can run one set of RED lens dual filament bulb as tail/marker and STOP lamp... And get second set of lamps with single filament bulb and run them as turn signal (just like standard vw beetle wiring)... Might also consider if you use single filament bulb as turn signal only, to get unit with amber lenses...

Also don't get "locked" in to only using lamps that are found in offload and VW sites.... There is a whole world of lighting out there, truck and trailer lighting offer hundreds of options for size and type of lighting and also LEDS which are becoming very popular and very cheap...

Dale

Sun Aug 28, 2011 2:25 pm

I got the taillights, now they only have a positive (red) and a ground (black) wire that came with them. How would I give a light two tasks, for example turn signal and tail light on one..?

Sun Aug 28, 2011 2:56 pm

If they are like the ones above each wire goes to a separate filament and they are grounded by the housing mount. In other words, ground the housing and if you put power to the red you get one filament, black the other filament.

Sun Aug 28, 2011 4:14 pm

That makes sense.. Yes they are the exact same ones above. Thank you :)

Mon Aug 29, 2011 10:08 am

Im not positive how a conventional hazard switch works, but I had to add some extra stuff for my hazards when I used that (exact) Trailer converter in my rail.

The person at Hoppy couldn't explain the how or why, just that it isn't designed for rail buggys. I ended up finding an explanation on a Suzuki Samaurai forum. Because it's an 'unpowered' converter, it needs an additional brake signal to operate the rear hazards.

I'm sure Dale could tell you how to avoid this, or if it's even a problem with a conventional hazard switch.

Mine has a switch for the hazards, and I have to flip another switch that sends a 'brake' signal to the converter for the rear hazards to function.

Mon Aug 29, 2011 10:11 am

Also +1 on Dale's advice to explore your lighting options. I have the exact same tail lights you pictured. They're nice enough and function well. But if I had did a bit more research I could have gotten some awesome LEDs instead for the same cost or less.

Mon Aug 29, 2011 10:48 am

tdonaldson wrote: Im not positive how a conventional hazard switch works, but I had to add some extra stuff for my hazards when I used that (exact) Trailer converter in my rail.

The person at Hoppy couldn't explain the how or why, just that it isn't designed for rail buggys. I ended up finding an explanation on a Suzuki Samaurai forum. Because it's an 'unpowered' converter, it needs an additional brake signal to operate the rear hazards.

I'm sure Dale could tell you how to avoid this, or if it's even a problem with a conventional hazard switch.

Mine has a switch for the hazards, and I have to flip another switch that sends a 'brake' signal to the converter for the rear hazards to function.

Do not use "trailer converters"....

Dale

Mon Aug 29, 2011 1:04 pm

Is there another simple cheap solution to run one set of dual filament rear lights? Remembering that not everyone is as good with electric theory as you, lol

Mon Aug 29, 2011 3:09 pm

There is a simple Chinese turn-signal switch ($20)...

There is simple excellent quality turn signal switch ($50) which the Chinese copied.. (Peterson V500)

THe Peterson V500 and Chinese copy wire like this....

Use standard VW turn-signal switch and add second "bulb"...

Get Signal Dynamics "Tri Star" turn signal switch ($99) of simpler version for $60..

http://signaldynamics.com/index.php?page=shop.prod...;Itemid=77

http://signaldynamics.com/index.php?page=shop.prod...;Itemid=77

Though you claim no electrical experiences but there is the "relay system"... You can make it yourself with my drawing or get it from Watsons Street Works...

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/vw.beetle.wiring.html

Without HAZARD ckt...

With HAZARD switch

And last though I dislike then is the "powered" converter....

http://www.coldspringsrv.com/parts_store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7265

There has got to be more solutions, but even this much makes me dizzy so maybe somebody else can offer some other solutions that I'm not aware of...

IF you want to retain stock turn-signal switch and have limited skills and want a "bomb proof" system, get Watsons Street Works (#V-IS) relays....

Dale

Tue Aug 30, 2011 3:51 am

I have the Tri Star on mine, works good. The only thing is it takes a keyed power source so the rear lights don't work unless the key is on

Thu Sep 01, 2011 8:08 am

I have now made a diagram. This makes my cheap install seem way more legit. I would like to have a nice setup, but honestly, I don't have the cash for all the relays, the skills to understand exactly how it works, or the space for that in my box.

My install was super duper cheap, and Im able to understand the entire thing. So if my buggy has some wiring hiccups, I can easily pull out a tester and track it down without there being any 'grey' area that I'm iffy on the theory of function. Not counting the lights themselves, or the brake sender, I spent less than 25 for all the stuff, turns signal switch included. All the connections are solid and soldered. The toggles are weather resistant, and the box has a small seam of gasket sealant around the opening. It can't get much more simple or durable.

Thu Sep 01, 2011 8:19 am

Was reading over another post, wanted to make clear to Dale that the only reason I prefer my 'dumb' install, is that I myslef am 'dumb' in relation to electrical theory. When I upgrade my box I may study a bit and put a relay system in. Right now I just don't understand it enough to use it reliably. No offense intended.