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Sun Sep 18, 2011 2:59 am

Hello,

It's my first time to install Type 3 Cooling Tin, and I'm wondering if it seats OK, or need some work?

Thanks[/img]

Sun Sep 18, 2011 4:50 am

From what I've read most people will answer you that type III tin needs to be on a type III motor...

I had bought those same things by recommendation of my local shop but never installed them after learning on the samba ( although apparently I am using a type III block so technically I'm installing the right tins for my block lol ) ...I'm going to be replacing them the proper type I tins

Sun Sep 18, 2011 5:36 am

yea those tins are shit and look like the fit the same :P

Sun Sep 18, 2011 5:40 am

I know it's a shit Tin, but the owner of this Engine need to use it, so can I get some help here about if it seated right or I must grind it to totally seat to the barrel?

Sun Sep 18, 2011 12:50 pm

If it must be installed I would grind it to fit...

Sun Sep 18, 2011 1:20 pm

DRD installed those tins on my longblock for my bus with out telling me, so I just left them on.

I have a dakota digital head temp gauge and my head temp is always within normal perimeters :wink:

Sun Sep 18, 2011 2:17 pm

The Type III tins were made or a 1600 so if you are installing them on an engine with larger pistons then you will have to trim them to fit.

Sun Sep 18, 2011 2:25 pm

seems like more often than not bailing wire is required to keem them in place and they offer no better cooling on a type 1 than the stock t-1 under tins....its an old trick that doesnt work :wink:

Sun Sep 18, 2011 2:40 pm

dcdubs wrote: seems like more often than not bailing wire is required to keem them in place and they offer no better cooling on a type 1 than the stock t-1 under tins....its an old trick that doesnt work :wink:

Do you have data to prove this? If so i would love to see it on paper.
A LOT of people around where i live run the type 3 tins or aka "cool tins" with great sucess. And normally we see tripple digit tems for weeks at a time in the summer.
I have run these tins myself with great sucess.
Small airplanes run similar tins also.

Just my personal experience and the experience i've seen with others in my area.

Sun Sep 18, 2011 3:09 pm

craigman wrote: dcdubs wrote: seems like more often than not bailing wire is required to keem them in place and they offer no better cooling on a type 1 than the stock t-1 under tins....its an old trick that doesnt work :wink:

Do you have data to prove this? If so i would love to see it on paper.
A LOT of people around where i live run the type 3 tins or aka "cool tins" with great sucess. And normally we see tripple digit tems for weeks at a time in the summer.
I have run these tins myself with great sucess.
Small airplanes run similar tins also.

Just my personal experience and the experience i've seen with others in my area.
No hard data but my 1904 ran better when I switched from Type 3 lower tins to the correct and complete Type 1 tins.

Your experiences might be different.

Sun Sep 18, 2011 4:38 pm

Glenn wrote: No hard data but my 1904 ran better when I switched from Type 3 lower tins to the correct and complete Type 1 tins.

Your experiences might be different.

Correct and complete is the key here. On something like a Baja or Manx the T3 tins work better than an incomplete set of T1 tins.

Sun Sep 18, 2011 5:07 pm

bdkw1 wrote: Glenn wrote: No hard data but my 1904 ran better when I switched from Type 3 lower tins to the correct and complete Type 1 tins.

Your experiences might be different.

Correct and complete is the key here. On something like a Baja or Manx the T3 tins work better than an incomplete set of T1 tins.
Can you run a Type 1 thermostat with T3 tins?

Sun Sep 18, 2011 6:28 pm

Glenn wrote: bdkw1 wrote: Glenn wrote: No hard data but my 1904 ran better when I switched from Type 3 lower tins to the correct and complete Type 1 tins.

Your experiences might be different.

Correct and complete is the key here. On something like a Baja or Manx the T3 tins work better than an incomplete set of T1 tins.
Can you run a Type 1 thermostat with T3 tins?
Yes you can. The vertical rod passes through the head, nowhere near the cylinders.

How did your engine run "better" with the Type 1 tins?

Sun Sep 18, 2011 6:51 pm

It ran cooler. Oil temps were down and it never smelled hot like it used to after a hard run.

Like i said, no hard data but I won't be using them again.

Mon Sep 19, 2011 1:48 am

Thank you all,
I'll grind it to fit, because I'm using 94mm pistons and it will be used with Buggy, and I'm not using a thermostat anyway, because the weather all the year round in Egypt is hot where this engine will be used.

Mon Sep 19, 2011 5:31 am

I've had to drill some holes in them and Safety-wire them to the headstuds. That way, they won't come loose and rub holes in your pushrod tubes. If you can find some Original, VW made cooltins, they fit much better.
Paul

Mon Sep 19, 2011 2:08 pm

For what its worth..

http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/vw-kool-tin.html

Mon Sep 19, 2011 4:24 pm

pharos wrote: Thank you all,
I'll grind it to fit, because I'm using 94mm pistons and it will be used with Buggy, and I'm not using a thermostat anyway, because the weather all the year round in Egypt is hot where this engine will be used.

Why do you NEED to use them? I have a feeling you will have issues especially living in Egypt. Same thing happened to me as Glenn. T1 tins $3.50 for the pair. "Cool" tins $20.00.
Seems like people enjoy blowing money on shit that doesn't work because well... it costs more... so it should work better right?!
Ohhhh VW parts marketing. Such a bastard you are.

Mon Sep 19, 2011 10:17 pm

Almost Alive wrote: Seems like people enjoy blowing money on shit that doesn't work because well... it costs more... so it should work better right?!
Ohhhh VW parts marketing.
That's not why people have been using them for the last few decades.
If you use the Type 1 lower tin in a Type 3, it runs hot. That's why VW had to design the Type 3 part. Today, people assume the Type 3 part is superior in every way, and since it cools better in a Type 3, it must cool better in a Type 1.
My guess is that the vastly different dynamics of a Type 1 shroud don't generate lower temps with the Type 3 parts.

Tue Sep 20, 2011 2:04 am

Bruce wrote: If you use the Type 1 lower tin in a Type 3, it runs hot. That's why VW had to design the Type 3 part. Today, people assume the Type 3 part is superior in every way, and since it cools better in a Type 3, it must cool better in a Type 1.
My guess is that the vastly different dynamics of a Type 1 shroud don't generate lower temps with the Type 3 parts.
Maybe it has something to do with the Type 1 fan shroud blowing from the top, down and the Type 3 fan blowing from the rear forward.