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SGKent Mon Apr 16, 2012 3:32 pm

TGOT wrote: I solved the problem, it was a faulty injector that while still tested ok leaked air at the metal plastic seam. I did change out the TS2 though just wasnt it this time. Thanks.

you'd think that if it leaked air it would leak fuel too unless it was the injector seals that were leaking.

Here is I think your photo.


busdaddy Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:03 pm

SGKent wrote: TGOT wrote: I solved the problem, it was a faulty injector that while still tested ok leaked air at the metal plastic seam. I did change out the TS2 though just wasnt it this time. Thanks.

you'd think that if it leaked air it would leak fuel too unless it was the injector seals that were leaking.
I too was contemplating that, Witchhunter says the Porsche injectors can sometimes weep fuel at the plastic seam, AFAIK the early Bosch ones are similar to this (disregard the fuel inlet), looks like one piece of steel all the way up to the plastic to me :

TGOT Wed Apr 18, 2012 7:43 pm

I really don't know what failed internally but I do know I was all over the engine with a propane bottle on a hose searching for vacuum leaks. Among other things I went through the AFC manuals procedure on testing injectors and seemed ok. After using that smoke machine I could see UV smoke dye collecting around the ring of metal to plastic contact. I changed out my OG injectors for NOS and it my idle problems went away. While it could have been leaking fuel and I missed it or it could have been something else wrong with the injectors I am just glad its not a problem.

SGKent Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:29 pm

TGOT wrote: I really don't know what failed internally but I do know I was all over the engine with a propane bottle on a hose searching for vacuum leaks. Among other things I went through the AFC manuals procedure on testing injectors and seemed ok. After using that smoke machine I could see UV smoke dye collecting around the ring of metal to plastic contact. I changed out my OG injectors for NOS and it my idle problems went away. While it could have been leaking fuel and I missed it or it could have been something else wrong with the injectors I am just glad its not a problem.

where did you buy OG injectors and what price?

TGOT Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:57 pm

I bought them off a parts supplier that retired with his stock in Boone NC. When I lived in town we became good friends so he showed me the "goodie box" I think I paid $320 for the set of four plus one. I think he has more I could ask about.

johnlynch47 Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:47 am

http://youtu.be/x8php_kWsw0
Did a video, Here is me starting my motor, 5 times, key only didnt turn it off or touch the gas pedal, also i have found when the air has any kind of moisture in it it runs terrible, especially fog.
I started it tonight and tried chasing a vacuum leak with some carb cleaner, and for some reason tried spraying a little right in the intake and it actually started running consistently.
L-jet, FI
Any thoughts?

busdaddy Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:59 am

johnlynch47 wrote: http://youtu.be/x8php_kWsw0
Did a video, Here is me starting my motor, 5 times, key only didnt turn it off or touch the gas pedal, also i have found when the air has any kind of moisture in it it runs terrible, especially fog.
I started it tonight and tried chasing a vacuum leak with some carb cleaner, and for some reason tried spraying a little right in the intake and it actually started running consistently.
L-jet, FI
Any thoughts?
Too lean, now you have to find out why. Have you done the usual preliminary tests like fuel pressure and TS2 OHM's? Had a look at the bottom side of the S boot and all the hoses?
The damp conditions making it run worse is likely plug wires, any idea how old they are?

SGKent Tue Apr 24, 2012 2:16 pm

fog lowers the oxygen content in the air. You may be really lean. I would look first for a vacuum leak. I would also check fuel pressure. Like BusDaddy suggested.

johnlynch47 Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:10 pm

whats a good fuel pressure gauge to get?

SGKent Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:28 pm

you can get one from your FLAPS 0 - 60 psi. Add fitting so the barb is about the same size as the fuel rail on the left side. You gently unscrew the fuel rail plug and slide the hose onto it and clamp it. Put the gauge into the hose and clamp it. Leave it while you are trouble shooting then remove it when you are done and put the plug back in.

Tymothyson Thu May 03, 2012 10:27 pm

I have been updating you guys on my 1979 California Model Bus. Someone told me to check the coil. I did and found that Bentley's Manual suggests using only a coil#211 905 115C which was made specifically for the Breakerless Transistorized Ignition System.

The ohms in the manual for this special coil don't match up with the Bosch coil #00041 that my mechanic put in (and that Bus Depot lists as compatible with my model bus). My current coil (00041) I have reads the right ohms.

My bus did run more than 20 seconds tonight when I replaced the ignition control module with an aftermarket Meyle one, but it eventually struggled, then finally stalled. This was an improvement over the immediate stalling of my old Ignition control unit.

Any ideas?

Westfabulous Thu May 03, 2012 10:51 pm

You give so little detail of how your symptoms occur, when they occur, what it sounds and feels like, etc. It will be near impossible to make progress at this rate. I mistakenly asked you (in a previous post) to pull the connector off your CSV on a cold start. Try this, it will take thirty seconds: on a cold start only, pull the connector off your Auxillary Air Regulator, then start the engine. Give it no gas at all. Tell us if the idle holds without conking out. If this is primarily a cold start issue (????), then we will find out if it is air related via this quick test.

If this doesn't result in a steady idle, please post a video or give a very detailed description of what is happening. Good luck.

Tymothyson Fri May 04, 2012 7:24 am

Westafabulous,

Do you pull connectors off both the CSV and AAR on the same cold start?

I did try pulling the plug off the CSV, but it was after I had already cranked and stalled a few times. In that case, it didn't make a difference, but I didn't pull the plug off the AAR as well.

Westfabulous Fri May 04, 2012 8:00 am

Tymothyson wrote: Westafabulous,

Do you pull connectors off both the CSV and AAR on the same cold start?

I did try pulling the plug off the CSV, but it was after I had already cranked and stalled a few times. In that case, it didn't make a difference, but I didn't pull the plug off the AAR as well.

No. Try this:

COLD engine
Gently pull connector off of AAR only
Start engine
Do not give it any throttle at all
See if it works through the warm up phase without stalling

Good luck. Keep us posted.

SGKent Fri May 04, 2012 8:02 am

Will it continue to run if you hold the throttle more open?

Tymothyson Fri May 04, 2012 9:37 pm

I pulled the plug on the AAR. It was difficult to get the engine started, but it ran for about 30 seconds and then it stalled. I don't know if that constitutes the warm up phase. I attempted to start it after that and it was still difficult to start, and would only idle for 5 seconds or so.

Westfabulous Fri May 04, 2012 11:22 pm

Tymothyson wrote: I pulled the plug on the AAR. It was difficult to get the engine started, but it ran for about 30 seconds and then it stalled. I don't know if that constitutes the warm up phase. I attempted to start it after that and it was still difficult to start, and would only idle for 5 seconds or so.

That's too bad; I was hoping this would lead us in the right direction. I'm still not convinced. Can you try this:

On a COLD engine, open the throttle body air bypass screw 1 full turn (left). Start the engine but do not give it any throttle at all. Let's see if it will work through the cold start. Mark the screw so you can return it back to where it was.

When the engine stalls after 30 seconds, does it slowly die out and surge a bit before it conks out?

Please tell us if this is a cold engine issue, or does this also occur on a warm start as well.

Are you able to get it running at all after it stalls?

SGKent Sat May 05, 2012 11:04 am

SGKent wrote: Will it continue to run if you hold the throttle more open?

please advise

Tymothyson Sun May 06, 2012 5:58 pm

The engine struggles to keep running, especially on the first, cold start. It sounds like it is struggling while running and while it stalls. When I crank it immediately after, it will start up, but run for less time each consecutive time (and when it stalls each consecutive time, the stall is more immediate).

I have been doing my testing with the catalytic converter off, and the O2 sensor dangling. I hope this isn't effecting anything, since the manual said the sensor only starts working when it is 300 degrees?

MadFrankie Sat May 12, 2012 4:01 pm

Right guys, it's finally stopped raining enough to get out and back on the vans FI problem.

I connected a fuel pressure gauge to the rail and got my wife to turn the engine and nothing, no pressure what so ever.

So looks like either a fuel pump or power to the fuel pump problem. Whats the easiest way to test power to the pump before I shell out for a new pump?



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