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Wed Feb 15, 2012 10:11 pm

IAMIROY wrote: Another thing. I found this picture in the engines section. Are the pieces the arrows point to stock parts? I haven't seen any of these laying around.

That's an early engine bay, which is much tighter that our spacious dual carb set ups.

Wed Feb 15, 2012 10:23 pm

So that's not needed for cooling?

Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:53 am

IAMIROY wrote: Is there a diagram/drawing available that shows all the engine cool tin for a type 3 engine?

Also, is the only difference between a 6v and 12v blower housing the cradle size for the generator?

**EDIT** I just found it on ISP West's sight, but is there anything in a larger size?

Here's a link to 1. You can up the size of it using the size control in the upper right corner.
http://classicvw.org/gallery2/v/enginetin/enginetin.jpg.html

Yes, the difference between 6 and 12 volt fan housings are the size of the cradle for the generator. The 6 volt generator is 90mm in diameter, while the 12 volt generator is 100 mm in diameter. That diffeence caused the change in the 2.

Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:25 am

Thanks Bob.

So the Type 3 engine doesn't seal up to the opening like a Type 1 bug or ghia?

Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:28 am

Nope, the bellows is our sealing :wink:

Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:55 am

There's differences to the tins too. Single port, dual port, humps in the sled tins, short and long versions of the ones that go under the shroud, super cool vs. deflector under the cylinders. Not all of them work together, so you'll need to get the right mix depending what you build.

65 would be 1500 SP right?

Thu Feb 16, 2012 4:06 pm

Thanks, Since we don't have anything to start with, I have been looking around at different engine compartments and got a bit confused. Thanks for setting things straight. Good to know we're not missing more that I had expected.

We're building a 1776 with dual 40 IDF (HPMXs) so I am guessing I will be looking for all late(r) model tins and 12v blower housing.

Sat Feb 18, 2012 7:57 am

IAMIROY wrote:
We're building a 1776 with dual 40 IDF (HPMXs) so I am guessing I will be looking for all late(r) model tins and 12v blower housing.

What you're looking for is the 68 to 71 upper cooling tin shrouds. These are for dual port engines, and don't use the "super cool tin" lowers. They'll be easier to find. The other version (found on some but not all 71 to 73's), of those you would need both upper and lower pieces, prefered from the same engine, as they fit better. Yes, some here have used the "off shore" lower cooling tins with the normal upper pieces, the fit isn't that great, you have safety wire them in place, and they need to be adjusted just to get them on (some trimming is required).

The "blower housing" as you call it, is the fan shroud. You can use any fan and later shroud from 68 on, as they are all the same. Try to get 1 with the flaps still installed, and preferably with ALL of the thermostat linkages, as it really helps engine warm up (it's real function, quicker warm up, and less engine wear). I hope this helps.

Sat Feb 18, 2012 6:02 pm

Thanks Bob for the info.

Took the case down to Brother's Machine Shop today. W1K1 talked us into a 1904cc.

Can't wait, things are moving right along!

Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:42 pm

We made lots of progress on the wiring today. There were a few crazy things going on from the P.O. but we were able to track them down. Also got the steering column all sorted out, just need to bolt it in.

I have a few questions though.

Headlight relay. Big round relay. I'm assuming we need to replace that with a 12V version? If so, does anyone have a part number or a place to look for one.

Same thing with the flasher relay. I don't know where to look or start.

Ignition switch. does a new ignition switch come with the wiring? Again, I don't know where to look for these electrical items.

Fuel gauge and sending unit. Now that we have it out and I can see what I looking at, do we need a 12V gauge or a 12V sending unit or both? Or is there another trick?

Thanks in advance.

Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:54 pm

IAMIROY wrote: We made lots of progress on the wiring today. There were a few crazy things going on from the P.O. but we were able to track them down. Also got the steering column all sorted out, just need to bolt it in.

I have a few questions though.

Headlight relay. Big round relay. I'm assuming we need to replace that with a 12V version? If so, does anyone have a part number or a place to look for one.

Same thing with the flasher relay. I don't know where to look or start.

Ignition switch. does a new ignition switch come with the wiring? Again, I don't know where to look for these electrical items.

Thanks in advance.

You'll need a 12v headlight relay part #111 941 583, there are two other versions #411 941 853 B & C. Turn signal flasher is easy, two or three prong 12v. As far as the ignition switch, depends what you buy. I hope this helps. Gas sending unit should work with 12v, but you'll need a 12v gauge on your dash.

allwagons

Mon Feb 27, 2012 5:52 am

Thank you sir. That should get me heading the right direction.

Fri Mar 02, 2012 8:49 pm

The Flat 4 Fuchs showed up. Here's a picture of the chrome Deep 6 for the rear.

Sat Mar 10, 2012 10:16 pm

Mark's square has it's own wheels and tires mounted up. It took some work, but we were able to get the deep 6 Fuchs on there with stock axles.

Fronts, 15 x 4.5" with 145/65/15 Contis

Rear, 15 x 6" with 195/60/15 Goodyear Eagles

It got washed for the first time in months, nice to have a true roller.

We also got some buffing and polishing done. Rear wheels are major cambered because we backed it in.

Next up is getting the steering column back in and the wiring finished up. Motor is being built now and should be done in a few weeks.

Sat Mar 10, 2012 10:46 pm

Every time I see those wheels I like them more. Car looks great.

Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:23 am

bad1916 wrote: Every time I see those wheels I like them more. Car looks great.

Thanks

What is the hot ticket on electric fuel pump and regulator. I keep reading the fuel pressure needs to be 3.5 lbs, no more , no less. How do you measure this? An inline pressure gauge?

Would something like this work?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3136-2/

Sun Mar 18, 2012 1:28 pm

I have this one, it's internally regulated for 3.5#, no gauge needed:

http://www.amazon.com/Pierburg-W0133-1610609-APG-Fuel-Pump/dp/B001G63AUO

I've heard the Carter is good too:

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=577

My Pierburg box has 'Made in Germany' and 'Made in Poland' stickers.

Get supaninja to make you bracket. :D

Sun Mar 18, 2012 3:24 pm

Brent wrote: I have this one, it's internally regulated for 3.5#, no gauge needed:

http://www.amazon.com/Pierburg-W0133-1610609-APG-Fuel-Pump/dp/B001G63AUO

I've heard the Carter is good too:

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=577

My Pierburg box has 'Made in Germany' and 'Made in Poland' stickers.

Get supaninja to make you bracket. :D

My bracket will work perfect for either of those pumps, let me know and I'll cast one up for you.

I got about a year's worth of driving on my 12v converted electrical, the 6v red needle fuel gauge is still working great :wink:

Sun Mar 18, 2012 4:15 pm

supaninja wrote: Brent wrote: I have this one, it's internally regulated for 3.5#, no gauge needed:

http://www.amazon.com/Pierburg-W0133-1610609-APG-Fuel-Pump/dp/B001G63AUO

I've heard the Carter is good too:

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=577

My Pierburg box has 'Made in Germany' and 'Made in Poland' stickers.

Get supaninja to make you bracket. :D

My bracket will work perfect for either of those pumps, let me know and I'll cast one up for you.

I got about a year's worth of driving on my 12v converted electrical, the 6v red needle fuel gauge is still working great :wink:

Awesome, thanks Brent. Filter before the pump, correct?

Ninja, you make a cool bracket for these?

Sun Mar 18, 2012 4:23 pm

I used my backyard foundry to make the bracket for my walbro fuel pump, I still got the pattern for it. I think it looks cool, but nobody will ever see it :(