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Wed Nov 09, 2011 6:29 pm

Hey guys........thought i would ask the experts. I am going to attempt my first buggy build.

Going to look at one local in a few days. "Rascal manx sytle".

What should I look for and what $$$ would be fair. Thanks!!

Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:58 pm

If you are going to build it, spent as little as possible. Get one that has a rats nest for wiring, maybe runs, maybe not, but has a solid body and a good pan and title. Better still, pick up something that someone started, bought parts for, and ran out of time, interest, or money to complete. A lot of cars out there in the $1200-2000 range like I just described. Dont put yourself on any sort of timeline for a purchase, and you'll come across a good deal. Few use these as daily drivers, and it it likely, neither will you...approach your purchase like it is a car you dont need...because you dont need it to get to work on Monday.

Also, use the search function here....you'll find that what seems like real unique problems with your build have been encountered (and solved!) by others.

My Sears Rascal before I started working on it:

Thu Nov 10, 2011 5:55 am

Thanks for the response.

I'm looking at the buggy body only. Just wondering if there is anything special I need to be looking for.

I'm should be done my 65 Beetle project this winter so I figured I need anothter project. :lol:

Thu Nov 10, 2011 6:10 am

From experience I would say "the thicker the better" some bodies are very thin and flex alot. We have what I believe to be a rascal and the glass is half as thick as other bodies that my friends have.

Thu Nov 10, 2011 6:25 am

Look for as few stress cracks, excess holes in the body, any hole or crack is extra cost and time in the rebuild. Pay a little extra for a good body.

Thu Nov 10, 2011 6:47 am

Hi crowe,

Although it may be tempting, don't necessarily jump on the first body that you come across (you probably did not need that advice anyway). Fiberglass thickness is an obvious factor, along with considerations on how much of an investment (not only $$$ but the hands-on labor factor) is going to be required in order to get the body up to speed (fiberglass repairs, sanding, painting, etc.). Look for stress cracks that may not be obvious on initial, casual inspection.

Most (but not all) fiberglass dune buggy bodies require the original VW chassis to be cut down (somewhere in the 14-1/2" range, some more and some less). If the body is unmounted, consideration should be given on how it was stored (and for how long), the body can warp if not stored correctly. A body mounted on a chassis obviously can give you a better look on the final look.

Back when I first started getting my (mostly clueless) act together on the decision to build a dune buggy from the ground up, I initially tried to find a decent Manx body somewhere within driveable distance to coastal NC. At the span of time that I looked, nothing promising was available. Then, I started looking in a different direction; a new, unmolested body.

Back then (late 2005) I paid somewhere near $1100.00 for a complete body and hood. I also purchased a new windshield and steering column support, along with other items. I did not have a good place to repair a used body, let alone a place to paint it. I have NEVER regretted my decision to start with a new body; I figure that it not only saved me $$ in the long run, but it greatly reduced my build time (still took me 18 months from start to finish).

Now, on the other hand, there are a few bodies that may well be worth the effort, depending on what you come across. If I had to even think of building a second dune buggy and I was going to consider a used body, I would try to either find an early Manx or a Deserter/Bounty Hunter. The Meyers Manx is the true original, and the Deserter/Bounty Hunter has lines that are uncomparable (windshield parts, etc may be difficult to find if not included with the purchase).

The same body that I bought back in 2005 is $1570.00 today. Additional factors would be either shipment or picking up a new body from a manufacturer/dealer at a place agreeable to both. I hope this helps.

Thu Nov 10, 2011 7:07 am

OK, that is a little more specific. Both of the other guys that posted made good points...thicker and without cracks and lots of extra holes is better. My late tailbox Rascal has a very heavy layup, but did have some issues due to age that needed to be addressed.

Until I discovered its early buggy era lineage (I think mine is a 70-71) I felt that putting in the extra time that it took to fill the 150+ holes was a waste and I wished I had just bought a new body. Once I learned it was a vintage body it made all the work I put into it, worth it, but you may feel differently about the joys of itching while doing FG work.

Specific to the Rascal body, look at the mounting sill plates, where the body attaches to the car....mine we're "pigeon-toed", curled up to the point that I had to cut them off and re-clock and reinforce them to get them to lay flat on the pan.

I also discovered that the shock towers of my KP/LP beam were too tall for the front of the tub, and they kept the tub about 1" off the mating surface of the pan up front. I didn't care, as I planned to have a lift kit, but but it is something for you to think about.

I'll post a few pics here of identifying Rascal characteristics to help you determine what you are looking at...I like the lines of my car, it is one of the most direct clonings of Bruce Meyer's Manx.

Thu Nov 10, 2011 7:15 am

Thanks for the advice. It is much appreciated. I'm sure I'll have more questions coming.

Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:32 am

Here are a few ID photos for a Rascal/Terra Buggy:

Dash has a "leg" over to the passenger side:

Hood has a trimline down the middle:

This is the "Late(Bigger) Tail Box" style rear:

My memory of what the issues were with the shock towers was jogged by looking at pics. I have a 6" wider beam with 10" shock towers which interfered with the fender wells, but if you look just past the shock tower you can see the underside of a bubble that was supposed to fit the stock KP/LP towers....I think it is better suited to a BJ front end if you dont want to modify it.

Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:01 am

Sorry for the sidetrack. But just had to say... wythac you have a beautifully done buggy, everything about it shows great craftsmanship and taste.

Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:35 am

I stumbled across this body and had three spare pans with titles and thought what the heck.

It was already painted, some FG repairs already made, but still had the gas filler hole in the hood and the dash holes still hacked in. I do not much care for the tailight holes, but they are ready for lights. The rest of the body is tight, nice base coat/clear coat paint with bed liner on inside and lower outside. Basically all the "body work" is done and I just need to fabricate and spin the wrenches. Body work and paint slows my projects down drastically, so I figured this would shoot me ahead 2 months in a build process.

I did pay a premium, but the older I get, my time means more than the extra cost Buying this body already prepped. I paid $ 700 with a so-so steering column. The body is thick glass too.

Thu Nov 10, 2011 10:46 am

If and when I build another it will be by buying a new body so I can cut out the time spent fixing years of neglect. In my opinion the only way to build one is with a new body.

Thu Nov 10, 2011 11:01 am

wythac wrote: Here are a few ID photos for a Rascal/Terra Buggy:

Hmmm. Maybe I dont have a rascal. My dash is different (see sig). Everything else seems the same though. Wonder why everyone seems to paint them purple lol. .

Dash has a "leg" over to the passenger side:

Hood has a trimline down the middle:

This is the "Late(Bigger) Tail Box" style rear:

My memory of what the issues were with the shock towers was jogged by looking at pics. I have a 6" wider beam with 10" shock towers which interfered with the fender wells, but if you look just past the shock tower you can see the underside of a bubble that was supposed to fit the stock KP/LP towers....I think it is better suited to a BJ front end if you dont want to modify it.

Thu Nov 10, 2011 12:07 pm

My buggy was missing a front fender. Most of the dash was gone as was the majority of the rear. The battery box was cut out and the firewall was mostly gone.

But it wasn't the same old cookie cutter clone, in fact I don't know who the manufacturer was. I liked the shape of the rear and I liked the hood scoops so I ran with it.

I have some killer before pictures now, and the project was half the fun.

Ran it that way for a year, won best finish in the last show it was in, and took it home, took it apart and cut the rear fenders off, widened the rear end, molded in Corvette tail lights and now I'm reworking the dash.

I enjoy the glass work, and would be hesitant to get creative with it had it been a brand new body.

Sun Nov 13, 2011 12:45 pm

Well cant seem to hook up with the guy to take a look but I did get a chassis.

I have Framehead (needs some repair), Tunnel and Torsion housing. No floorboards.

Would it be best to shorten the tunnel and then get floorpans and shorten them or shorten the tunnel and build a "box" frame.

i have searched and read alot of threads.

Sun Nov 13, 2011 2:34 pm

GTBRADLEY wrote: If and when I build another it will be by buying a new body so I can cut out the time spent fixing years of neglect. In my opinion the only way to build one is with a new body.

X2...for what it takes in man-hours and materials to fix up and paint an old body only to have the bondo shrink and the paint to scratch as soon as you start to use the car I'd go for a new gel-coated shell most every time.

Just my two cent's worth though you understand!!!

Sun Nov 13, 2011 3:22 pm

fixing things to me is all the fun but I can understand that......

Fri Dec 16, 2011 9:13 am

Well I grew tired of searching for a body.

I ordered a Nostaglia body from Berrien. Should be picking it up in late January. WooHoo!!

Fri Dec 16, 2011 11:38 am

crowe66 wrote: Well cant seem to hook up with the guy to take a look but I did get a chassis.

I have Framehead (needs some repair), Tunnel and Torsion housing. No floorboards.

Would it be best to shorten the tunnel and then get floorpans and shorten them or shorten the tunnel and build a "box" frame.

i have searched and read alot of threads.

Check out my build on here. Best bet to just do a box frame and sheet steel.
No sense in messing with pans.

Where are you at in MD? One step at a time. Ready for the final showdown with mine after the holiday.

Fri Dec 16, 2011 2:37 pm

yeah i've been following your build. very nice.

tube/sheet is what i was thinking too.

i'm in crofton.....not too far from you.