TheSamba.com :: View topic

Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:45 pm

Hey all, I've been lurking here for a few years, since I got my bus and everyone said "Go to the Samba"

and so I did, but I've been just trying to search and find stuff, but I figure, I may as well post up some pictures and have you all tell me where I've gone horribly wrong already.

more photos up there.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amclaughlin/sets/72157622005581054/with/4016066220/

Since I got it in 2008 (yikes) I have since moved from Central NH to Providence RI, I don't have the nice garage it was once in. So the engine rebuild is happening in my basement, and I want to get it done before the summer.

I have pictures of moving it, and so you can actually see the whole thing, I'll post them soon.

I have torn the engine down to the point of just about getting the valve covers open. some of the things have been really apparent that they need to be replaced, but basically, I want to make sure that I'm not making some of the same mistakes I did ordering parts when I first got into fixing Mopeds. (cheap knockoffs, or not doing an upgrade when it would have been better in the long run, and possibly even cheaper.)

So I will be posting lots of photos and questions. and I would like to apologize in advance for not knowing, even what to ask.

WHAT I KNOW: about the history of the bus.

-His name is Francis (named after Lake Francis in northern new hampshire, his maiden voyage from the previous (not original) owner)

-they replaced the engine, with a rebuilt one (I don't know how professional the rebuild was)

-the parked it because it was "Blowing Seals" (I don't know what PETA would have to say about that, but..)

WHAT I HAVE DECIDED:

I'm going to rebuild the engine, (already started)

I want to drive this all the time, and I want to know what is going into the engine, so that when I'm stranded on the side of the road I can swear at myself for something more specific than being an idiot.

I am Poor, but I want to put good parts on, where necessary.

I'd rather put a grand or two into this project, than pay that for a used car that I'm probably going to have to buy new tires and random stuff for anyway... and then I'll have a used car that I Want to drive.

Oh geez. that was a long post. Sorry.

-Aaron

Tue Nov 29, 2011 2:04 pm

Hi there and welcome. I looked through all of your pictures and I think you have a very good candidate there for a nice restoration. In fact it's a real bonus that your headliner and sidewall panels are in great shape. I notice that this is a sunroof bus. How well does that work for you? If it's not clean and lubed well I suggest doing that before you cause some damage by opening it. I see some rust but that does look like it very repairable. The engine looks good except for the wrong exhaust system. Are you planning on making this a seven passenger or some kind of conversion? Do you have all the seats, back and middle? Hopefully you have a rear bumper somewhere.

Tue Nov 29, 2011 2:29 pm

Yes!
I have the bumper.

Can you link me to the proper exhaust? It seems like its right, but now it's in pieces, I was planning on replacing it.

The rust over all is really not bad. Aside from the battery box spot, but I can get a new piece for that

As far as the roof is concerned, I haven't opened it yet because there are three Large dents in the roof, and I haven't been able to pull them out yet.

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Tue Nov 29, 2011 2:31 pm

Oh, and I have all of the seats, and they are in pretty good shape, they had been stored because it had a bed in it.

I plan to have it with the seats in, but may take out the middle one for storage.

Tue Nov 29, 2011 2:33 pm

Welcome aboard. Love the color of your bus. :)

Tue Nov 29, 2011 2:54 pm

Most people go with something like this:

http://www.jbugs.com/product/3312.html?Category_Code=vw-bug-super-beetle-mufflers-headers-system

Tue Nov 29, 2011 3:52 pm

mclaughlinlives wrote:
Can you link me to the proper exhaust? It seems like its right, but now it's in pieces, I was planning on replacing it.

If you are driving in the northeast, I suggest you *invest* in a correct Leistritz stock exhaust system that may cost a little more and easily last twice as long:

(I am holding a grossly incorrect tailpipe that is nonetheless foisted upon the unsuspecting)

It has this silly looking little tailpipe stretching over towards the left corner of the bumper, but it does help keep exhaust fumes out of the heater, it helps balance engine output vs heat generation when you are battling I-95 and associated beltways in the summer, and it is the easiest exhaust system to listen to over long hauls.
Available from Wolfsburg West with tailpipe and damper for: $145.00.

AlsoNewMemberOf1970BusClub :D

ColinWhoCovetsYourSunroof

Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:40 pm

someone please explain why the "pea Shooter" exhaust needs to come off other than esthetics...what does the change do that would call for the $140 expense and time....I've been driving around for 6 months with the exhaust that was on the engine I swapped from a convertible with no problems. 8)

Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:51 pm

Thanks Amskeptic, I will definitely invest in that.

does that clock tell you when you should change your oil?

:)

OK Some More Pictures!

This is Francis on his trip to RI

this is where he sat all summer. (and has just recently been moved to not taking up a parking spot in the driveway, roommates can be so particular)

I dropped the engine while it was still in nh, didn't really take pictures (which is bad because I'm a photographer, I should do that, also, I shouldn't be using my cell phone as my main camera...)
This is how the engine sat when I got it here and had removed a lot of the tin and the fan and some other key parts and thought, Oh crap, I forgot to take a picture.

I just tore down the top end tonight, and found a Broken Ring on piston number one.

so, now I'm very glad I decided to go all the way with it. I think it was worth it. the Seal for one of the valve covers seems to be installed incorrectly too. it was pinched weird.

more pictures after the fold.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/amclaughlin/sets/72157622005581054/with/6429221071/

Thanks for all your feedback so far!

Wed Nov 30, 2011 5:27 am

Beetle mufflers don't belong on Busses. It's all in the way the air movement occurs behind the back of the Bus when you're driving and to a lesser degree when standing still. They are not sloped like Beetles. A good test would be to roll up all your windows and drive around with a CO monitor in the cab up front and see how much carbon monoxide the monitor reads. Bus exhaust needs to exit either side depending on the system, not out the middle like Beetles.

Wed Nov 30, 2011 6:33 am

Amskeptic wrote: Leistritz stock exhaust system is the easiest exhaust system to listen to over long hauls.

I concur; my '71 came with a muffler that looked like a stock muffler but when I switched it over to a true stock muffler (from WW) my Bus got a LOT quieter.

(Colin - so glad you're venturing into T1 technology!!)

Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:25 am

You can get a better understanding of the significance of the 'clock in the engine bay' by reading this -

http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=10233

Also, you can experience one mans journey to conquer heat. I think Colin prefers his engine temps in the mid-300's and his personal temps at about 110.

Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:41 am

Is that bus originally from NH?
If so, that's a score.

Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:56 am

mclaughlinlives wrote: Thanks Amskeptic,
does that clock tell you when you should change your oil?

When to shift ...

I like the look of this Francis, especially the first photograph in your series. There is something very purposeful about this car. You could have a tremendous representative if you did manage to get back to the stock green with grey interior. Handsome. The early interiors were nicely turned out, unlike most of these modern cars that try to find the most "adaptable" mousy grey or bandaid beige blah.

Looked good with the red buses too ...

Colin

Thu Dec 01, 2011 10:11 am

so, I cracked the case yesterday, and the con rods were beyond their tolerances for spacing.. so, I added to the shopping list, but, I don't know if It means that I'm just going to get over my head in expenses on engine rebuilding...

I really wanted to rebuild it myself to save a little money, and so I knew exactly what was going on in there, and what I put into it to know if I was going to need to change things down the line etc etc.

any suggestions? the cylinders are well within the tolerances, but the pistons are just passed the tolerances for the ring wear.

new rings? new pistons? all new cylinders too?

I really appreciate all of your help.

Thu Dec 01, 2011 10:15 am

Colin, I'm really stoked about it.

I was just poking fun about the clock.
I really like that cream color of yours. but I'm happy with the green, I think i'm going to try to get to do the body work eventually on it, and match up that green.

that ad makes me want to get my hubcaps rechromed. I bet I can polish them up to match the rest of the van at least :)

Thu Dec 01, 2011 10:18 am

Do you have Tom Wilson's engine rebuilding book? It's a must have.

Thu Dec 01, 2011 10:23 am

I have the Muir book the Haynes and the factory manual. (I think it's factory, i don't see any brand on it besides VW)

I like having more than one for cross referencing, do you think the wilson one is worth getting?

Thu Dec 01, 2011 10:32 am

new rings? new pistons? all new cylinders too?

A complete set of new pistons, cylinders, and rings goes for less than $200.

Thu Dec 01, 2011 10:38 am

mclaughlinlives wrote: I have the Muir book the Haynes and the factory manual. (I think it's factory, i don't see any brand on it besides VW)

I like having more than one for cross referencing, do you think the wilson one is worth getting?
It is the ONE you absolutely need. It is a must. And the Bentley service manual for reference specs.
Also just get a piston/cylinder set. That's the normal and common way we do it. But you need Wilson's book for all the details. You will also need to locate a quality VW specific machine shop. VW, not some generic shop. You will need professional inspection of the case. For measurement's and also crack inspection that you won't be able to do. You will also want to get a set of rebuilt rods. And have the engine fully balanced, dynamic and static. Full flowing the case is also a very wise thing to do so as a minimum you can add a filter.