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Kursive Wed Dec 07, 2011 11:33 pm

Hey everyone :vw:
Catching up..
As I'm out of town, working to get a complete list of parts to order / tasks to do in order to have the bus fully and safely ready to get back on the road, hoping to have it 100% for the rebuilt engine coming back soon from Billy in Long Beach 8)
feel free to say hi and share your restoration threads, searching for inspiration and knowledge :D

Looking for:
Koni Front Shocks 80-1966 / Rear Shocks 80-1967


12/07/11
tldr; 1969 Westfalia is out of commission, and in the meantime it will be receiving repairs and special attention. Pics below c:
Longerish story..
In 2008 I bought a 1969 Westfalia from a friend's friend. This friend was moving to Hawaii, and in a rush, had lowered their asking price from 5500, to 3500, to 2000.. to the final price of $1600 when I came around. 8)
The only real problem was a common (from what I heard) oil leak, other than some wear and tear of near 50 years; minimal rust, younger PO 'personalizing', one bump to the side, new speakers hanging about.. Good enough to start with I hoped. :) Engine was a recent rebuild on its last leg from this friend's friend, :roll: nothing I was excited about, and planned to replace asap, oil leak or not.
Well after a week or so, with a combination of oil leaking and inexperience, I was dead on the side of the road (ironically on the way to a local VW mechanic :-k ), realizing replacing the engine was happening before I took this Volkswagen back on the road.
Well after some movement, job changes, and a few years I'm ready to start back up on revitalization \:D/

Hope to have some fun :D

VAVWFAN Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:49 am

Well, having a 69 Westy myself, I can attest that your acquistion cost is pretty darn good... what you saved should be directed to a good quality engine rebuild or replacement... Dicey when it comes to these, so do your homework. There are special issues with regard to replacements. Original 69's had single port (SP), intake manifold/ non doghouse oil cooler engines. You should consider a dual port with the better oil cooler... lots of info in Samba regarding the change...... well worth it.

While its down, asses the transmission, CV joints, throughout bearing etc.......

Once again, you got good value in your bus from the start, but to get it reliable, will cost you upwards to 5Gs, all said and done

Kursive Thu Dec 08, 2011 3:53 pm

Thanks for affirming my thoughts on the value :) I have always justified the need for major renovations on the original purchase price, can't go wrong with added value! Though I do plan to keep my original VW forever.. So I'm quite happy to spend the time and money to get her top notch.
At this point, I'm thinking about using Tom Wilson's book for a rebuild. Though lately, I have been more interested in a Type IV engine conversion; I have seen Raby's Camper Special, but that price is, heh, you know.
My goal is to do a entire work-through of course, engine may be a slower step by step process during the renewal of the body / interior / etc., especially if I end up doing the full build myself.
Pictures up soon! May have to wait on the interior, it has become a favorite for storing temporarily displaced items (I am too nice sometimes.. :? )

Kursive Thu Dec 08, 2011 5:39 pm

Front view.. will get that junk out of there soon :oops:


Closer front.. Some sponge paint from PO and damaged signal light


View of left side, having those cheesy curtains replaced soon :lol:


back left..


Back view with a different kind of cheesy curtain :roll:


Best view I can get of the right side right now


Sorry for the lighting.. will probably get a better shot of the front and right side tomorrow. Also will get in and start getting the junk out, after I find a place to put it all :-s Feel free to comment and what not :D

Westfabulous Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:45 pm

Looks solid. Nice bus to start with, assuming it has an engine and an interior. A little Easy Off and some Super, Super Fine steel wool should get that cheesy sponge paint off. There are some posts here that you can research if you want to give it a try. Fun times ahead.

420GOAT Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:58 pm

dude, where was that bus? it was fortified like ft knox!!

Kursive Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:16 pm

Westfabulous wrote: Looks solid. Nice bus to start with, assuming it has an engine and an interior.

Thanks! Engine went kaput shortly after purchase so that is going to be a primary but slow process here.. lots to do and learn in that department #-o
Will be getting myself some proper polishing materials asap, thanks for the tip :D

420GOAT wrote: dude, where was that bus? it was fortified like ft knox!!

No doubt! Was a 3 PO, I believe the most recent did all the lock downs.. Don't remember if she said the specific reasons but I was told engines were easily dropped, and I suppose she didn't trust the lock-less gas tank hatch :?





U-bike locks not included :lol:

Kursive Fri Dec 09, 2011 3:07 am

Going to attempt to make a comprehensive checklist / spreadsheet, tentative categories include:
1. Exterior
2. Interior
3. Engine

hm.. looks good, all items will go into those categories. Hopefully this will keep me organized and efficient. I'll examine pictures right now for starters and whatever comes to mind, but when day light comes I'll get a notepad and get out there to take a good look. Relocating the stored stuff inside may be near impossible at this time, so internal affairs :roll: may be on hold..

skid Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:41 pm

I love how that one turn signal lens looks like its held together by glue. :D

Kursive Fri Dec 09, 2011 5:00 pm

skid wrote: I love how that one turn signal lens looks like its held together by glue. :D
Right?? lol that's going on my 'exterior' list :lol:

RedHeadedJosh Fri Dec 09, 2011 6:16 pm

Hey the locks are kinda bobo but work?! ](*,) :-k

Kursive Fri Dec 09, 2011 6:47 pm

Seemingly.. Haven't used the engine hatch lock down, but the gas does it's job, as bad as it looks :-s
Oh well, that will have to be replaced or holes repaired, same for rear fender.

Here's some wheel pics..

Front Right


Back Right


Front Left


Back Left



I think I like the left side more :roll: Sorry for the closeups on the right, still stuck next to the hedge.

Desertbusman Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:06 pm

The only thing I see in the pics are passenger car tires. Forget wheel paint, padlocks and all that until you are sure you have tires suitable for a bus. Important things first. :wink:

You talking about putting a different type engine in it before you even know what the stock setup does? Go good quality stock and drive it and get to know it for a couple years. Once you know the ins and outs of bus ownership and driving then change it if you want.
Arn't you aware of the Federal Law prohibiting altering a Bay until after 2 years of using and driving it?

Kursive Sat Dec 10, 2011 4:01 am

2 year law? No way.. :-s Right?

I expected someone to point out the passenger tires :lol: I was fortunately informed by Eric of Tony's Auto Repair that passenger tires don't cut it for these girls. I've recently been reading into tires like Hankook Radials. I would be happy to go with those, just would miss the thin white wall :(
As for going stock.. that was my plan for a while, though tempted to do 1776cc, but all I have learned in the past few years from others' posts and experiences is the contrast in reliability of the Type I to the Type IV.
I would have a hard time justifying putting in a more faulty engine type, unless I have either underestimated the Type I or overestimated the Type IV? I would like to do the best I can the first time around so I don't feel the need to replace it a few years down the road.
But maybe you're right.. would be nice to drive it as it was meant to be.
..2 years?

Kursive Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:15 pm

So I am slowly turning back to wanting a Type I engine to start with..
This is mostly due to the availability / cost of rebuilding one, as I want it functional and on the road ASAP.

Problem is, I plan to go to plenty of mountainous areas, as well as towing a trailer, and much freeway travel. Would the stock single carb 1600cc do that for me? Would Dual? Would I need to upgrade to 1776, 1835? 1914? Haven't found a definite answer as to what would be best for my needs, will keep looking. Will hopefully have some progress to post if I have time tomorrow :)

Desertbusman Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:53 pm

Kursive wrote: Haven't found a definite answer as to what would be best for my needs,

Yep, You're green to buses. :lol:
First item of importance always with a bus is what's best for it's needs. It's a well designed and coordinated package deal that you havn't discovered yet and learned to appreciate. It's best to let it dictate to you your changes versus you changing it. If it doesn't make you happy then maybe it's the wrong vehicle.
That's the reason for the two year law. Return it to good original running condition and learn why they are so great. Then you can upgrade it a bit if you really want to. After having mine for 11 years I decided to play a bit with it and use a little cam, a couple of carbs, exhaust, and a couple other goodies. It's fun but it remains a 1600. Where I came to really appreciate them is spending some intimate highway time with a really wonderfully built top condition stocker.
Building up a bigger top end only results in more demand on the bottom end. Spend the 2 years learning to smell the roses. :wink:

Kursive Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:37 pm

Desertbusman wrote:
Yep, You're green to buses. :lol:

Sheesh :?


Well my biggest worry is heat and working too hard on a lot of hills, and seeing you're from Arizona, I would assume the 1600cc doesn't worry you more about that?

Saint76 Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:23 pm

Your list needs to be revised to
1. Engine/drivetrain.
2. Safety.
3. Refer to 1 and 2
4. Refer to number 3
5. Number 4 sounds good.

Then think about making it cute. Don't waste your money buying crap that doesn't make it a functioning vehicle.

Desertbusman Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:22 am

Kursive wrote:
Well my biggest worry is heat and working too hard on a lot of hills, and seeing you're from Arizona, I would assume the 1600cc doesn't worry you more about that?
Yes, heat and working it too hard can kill it or about anything else in the desert. That's why I say to own it, use it, and drive it the way it wants versus the way you want.
You want an engine well built, including fully balanced and full flow lubed. And you want to drive it in a wise manner and within it's happy parameters. Mine get driven a lot more in 118F weather and mountain grades during the summer than in the cooler months. And it's been that way since the mid '90's when I got my bug and bus. Daily driven and the only vehicles I've owned during that time. Totally trouble free. And I wouldn't want to go larger than 1600 in either of them.

Kursive Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:29 am

Saint76 wrote: Don't waste your money buying crap that doesn't make it a functioning vehicle.
Agreed. For now, until I have the money to start rebuilding myself an engine, I'll be sticking to free / extreme low-cost cleaning / repairs. Money isn't growing on the trees lately..

Desertbusman wrote: Mine get driven a lot more in 118F weather and mountain grades during the summer than in the cooler months. And it's been that way since the mid '90's when I got my bug and bus. Daily driven and the only vehicles I've owned during that time. Totally trouble free. And I wouldn't want to go larger than 1600 in either of them.
Just what I needed to hear. In the end, it would be much cheaper and quicker for me to stick with stock, I just feared the desert would be a bit too rough on it for it to last.
Though, that was on the presumption of a below-par engine. I suppose it will be up to me and it's clearly possible :D



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