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65'1300Deluxe Tue May 29, 2012 9:58 pm

Here I have the carburetors, one cleaned and the other waiting to be.


65'1300Deluxe Sun Jun 10, 2012 2:32 pm

I'm going to skip forward to the good part. :roll:


65'1300Deluxe Sun Jun 10, 2012 2:35 pm

Time for the installation!



Yours truly getting the compartment ready



Completing the connections...



And done!



:twisted:

65'1300Deluxe Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:41 pm

And here's the first official drive! :D

http://youtu.be/_1oPGLkfF7s

DKO Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:05 pm

Nice! Keep up the good work.

ach60 Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:30 pm

65'1300Deluxe wrote:


'72 is my favorite year, My sister Marsha bought a Green '72 brand new from a dealer in St Louis, Mo.

65'1300Deluxe Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:05 pm

All I need to do is fix an intake leak on the 1/2 side to get it to idle right. So far I've gotten the car up to 45mph with no issues. Shifts smoothly and silently. :wink: Going to get a new windshield installed soon so I can get rid of the duct-tape.

65'1300Deluxe Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:30 am

Well, yesterday I got the intake leak fixed so the car actually idles on all four cylinders instead of just 2. I may need to advance the timing a little more too.

65'1300Deluxe Sun Jun 24, 2012 9:21 pm

Okay, so apparently I didn't get the leak fixed. It eventually became apparent that the dual carbs were becoming trouble to work with, so with the help of my grandad the original carburetor system was re-installed.

Here it is early on with a German 009, however, the flat spot sucked and I ended up taking it out.



So now it has its original unit set up for SVDA operation and with the oil bath air cleaner.



It accelerates rapidly and the performance is amazing, so I think this setup'll work for a good long time. :wink:

65'1300Deluxe Sun Jun 24, 2012 9:25 pm

Oh, and I'm getting a triple-gauge cluster installed. It'll have (actually has right now), oil pressure, Volts, and eventually either a good Tach or a CHT unit. I just used two of the stock dashboard screw holes with longer screws and drilled new holes in the holder to line things up. Looks great as far as I'm concerned!


Rome Mon Jun 25, 2012 4:35 pm

It's a grreat feeling to get the engine to run well, right? Good going! Run, Roland; RUN!

Keep the IDFs and the linkage for the future. The left carb can be drilled for a vacuum signal pipe if not already there, enabling you to run the same factory distributor you now have. Art Thraen at ACE in Utah does top-notch work on cleaning up IDFs, if you pursue this modification.

Did you remove the engine to convert back to the stock induction, or do it with the engine in place?

dubllyou Mon Jun 25, 2012 4:52 pm

Nice job! Too bad the duals didn't work out yet but keep up the good work.

Oh and BTW, I'm gonna need that jacket. You can PM me for my address. :D

65'1300Deluxe wrote:




Rome Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:12 pm

It appears that your dual carb intake manifolds are different heights! Just inspect your straight-on engine shot- look at the bottom edge of each air cleaner base compared to the fan shroud fresh air outlet's top seam. This also accounts for the big difference in the downrod shape- from the carb linkage to the carb's throttle lever. Now that you have the carbs+manifolds off the car you can measure the height to verify. Might be about an inch difference. If the throttles on both carbs don't open at the same time and in unison, the engine will feel like it is struggling, and can also pop and buck as you step on the gas.

Maybe I'm wrong, and the apparent height difference is because the left manifold is located slightly further forward than the right one due to the engine's normal offset of the left cylinders+head.

If your mismatched manifolds are the case, you can either buy a matched pair used (manifolds for Dell'Orto DRLA downdrafts have the same bolt pattern as Weber IDFs) or try to find one which has the same height as either of yours- though you have to be prepared for the seller not to provide accurate measurements.

You can make your own downrod to match the other one using aluminum rod (HW store), heated with propane torch for the correct bend(s), and create a thread using a die based on your rod end threads. And of course new gaskets at the head flange.

65'1300Deluxe Mon Jun 25, 2012 9:44 pm

I'm not planning on re-using the dual's for now. I left the engine in to reinstall the original system (a big hassle), and it's going to stay that way for some time. Oh, and tomorrow I'm going to pick it up from the glass shop! :D

Ferrariferg Mon Jun 25, 2012 9:56 pm

I might be interested in your dual setup if you are looking to get rid of it. I'm in Washington as well so shipping wont be too bad. Shoot me a PM if your interested. Nice find and good work. :)

65'1300Deluxe Sat Jun 30, 2012 6:49 pm

Okay, so here's a before shot, with the duct-taped windshield out...



And here's an after shot! :P


65'1300Deluxe Sat Jun 30, 2012 6:52 pm

The car now regularly takes me to work, and up to 55 easily!
Unfortunately, today I discovered that my heaters weren't working, and later found that the wire cables had snapped. :x I'll get around to getting a new set, thankfully its been rather warm!

65'1300Deluxe Sat Jun 30, 2012 8:16 pm

And now for a shot of the old interior...



Versus the new one...


65'1300Deluxe Sun Jul 01, 2012 9:42 pm

Well, I hooked up the retard portion of the distributor today and got that to work good. Unfortunately, my idle solenoid crapped out on me so now I have to wait to get a new one before I can drive again! :x Is it uncommon for those to burn out?

65'1300Deluxe Mon Jul 02, 2012 7:34 pm

Okay, so today I found that the vacuum retard was killing my engine at stops and made downshifting jerky when I let my foot off the throttle. I re-timed it to 7.5 BTDC with just the advance portion and made it run better. I also completely installed the pre-heat system along with an original pulley to complete the stock look. Pictures soon!



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