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Summers420us Thu Jan 19, 2012 12:45 pm

Does anyone happen to have a copy of the instructions that were originally on this link?

http://vanagonwiki.net/index.php/Installation_of_an_Audiovox_model_CCS_100_Cruise_control

Rhinoculips Thu Jan 19, 2012 12:53 pm

I've copied and pasted from the Archives website for our own preservation of this info.

http://web.archive.org/web/20090418181915/http://v...se_control

Installation of an Audiovox model CCS 100 Cruise control
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Installation of an Audiovox model CCS 100 Cruise control (vacuum controlled)
Installation on a 1989 Vanagon Westphalia, 2.1 L WBX Manual transmission
Instructions produced August 2007

I based my installation on the text instructions provided by Tim Hannink's which are available in the Wolfsburg_Campers Yahoo!Group's file section. [1]
Note: Tim utilized unused rear heater wiring to simplify wiring and mounted the cruise control servo under the vehicle to minimize engine heat concerns (but there have been reports of some units failing to work properly in the rain).

Addition items not included in the kit required for this installation
1” Rubber Grommet
3 x Insulated .250” female spade crimp connectors
3 x Ring crimp connectors
Inline fuse holder and 15 AMP fuse
Approx. 20 feet each of 16 gauge brown, yellow and green wires
Approx. 15 feet x Ό” split cable wire protector
Various sections heat shrink tubing
1/4” Philips screw and fender bolt
Various zap tie straps
Double sided tape

Cruise Vacuum Reserve Fabrication
3” x 12” length ABS pipe
3” ABS cap x 2
3/16” male barb x ½” male MIP brass fittings x 2
3/16” x 3/16” double male barb vacuum check value (NAPA PN: 2-1015)
3/16” x 12” length vacuum hose

Cruise Servo Control Unit Input Options
The unit requires input on vehicle motion to operate. Using Tachometer control is one of the simplest and easiest installations as it uses the pulse generated from the ignition coil within the engine compartment. It does assume that the vehicle speed is directly related to the engine speed. On a manual transmission (assuming minimal clutch slippage) there is this direct relationship.

If have an automatic transmission the torque converter will not allow this one to one relationship and other settings and the use of the magnetic pickup included in the kit may be required (sorry others will have to provide the knowledge for that set up).

Since Vanagon’s use an older style cable driven speedometer I do not believe that you have a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) connection as an input option.


Step one – set pin switch settings on the back of the Servo control unit
Pin switch settings (for using tach only - manual transmission)

If you have a manual transmission remove the black jumper connector and discard (left side of switch 1). Removing this jumper allows the unit to automatically switch off should it sense a rapid increase in engine RPM. This would occur should you depress the clutch without turning off the cruise unit. This prevents engine from over revving.

1 VSS Settings ON or OFF Does not matter as per instruction manual
2 VSS Settings OFF or ON Does not matter as per instruction manual
3 Speed Signal OFF Tach only input
4 Sensitivity OFF Medium or High Sensitivity
5 Sensitivity ON High Sensitivity (set to OFF for medium)
6 Control settings OFF Use of included dash control pad
7 Tach Source ON Coil as motion input source

Servo Sensitive Setting: I used the high setting with good results. Given this vehicles high weight in relation to its power this setting provides good anticipation of speed changes yet does not result in a jerky ride.

Step Two – Throttle connections
I first considered mounting the cruise cable in the same perpendicular orientation as the factory installed cruise (Bentley 27.25) but that would require fabricating a new bracket and would have awkward cable routing. In addition the cruise installation instructions suggest that you run the cruise cable connection parallel to the existing throttle cable so I followed that line of thought. A number of options are available but I chose to mount the unit by drilling a 15/64” hole in the existing throttle cable bracket just to the right of the throttle cable. I removed the bracket for ease of drilling. I used the two supplied lock nuts to secure the cruise cable housing to the bracket. I connected to the existing throttle linkage by slipping a bead chain eyelet over the throttle linkage bolt (this bolt secures the throttle cable to the throttle linkage). I used 9 links of the bead chain and a bead chain coupling to attach it to the cruise cable ball fitting. I used the supplied heat shrink tubing over each bead chain coupling to ensure that they could not work lose.

Step Three – Control Servo unit mounting
I chose to mount the unit adjacent to the coil within the engine compartment to keep it dry and provide a smooth arc for the cable to reach the throttle connection. I recognize that there may be concerns with excessive heat in the engine compartment since the engine compartment of a Vanagon is not cooled by air circulation from the radiator fan when stationary as a conventional front engine vehicle. I remain hopeful that cruise servo unit can withstand the heat in the long term.

I had to reverse and bend the cruise servo mounting bracket. I attached the servo to the mounting frame for the coil and fuse pump relay box. I drilled an additional hole in the frame and used an additional screw and fender bolt. I routed the cable out of the engine compartment towards the front of the vehicle through a vacant hole (added a 1” rubber grommet). The cable then has a smooth curve back to the rear of the vehicle parallel to the throttle cable. I used wire ties to secure the cable to two points of the body (over the transmission area)

Step Four – Control Servo Wire Connections
Black (ground) – connect to vehicle ground
I removed excess wire, attached a ring crimp connector and connected to vehicle ground used one of existing grounding hex screws on the left side of the engine compartment near the coil.

Blue (Coil pickup)
I connected to negative terminal of the coil located on the left side the engine compartment. The negative terminal of the coil is marked terminal “1” and has two green wires connected to it. I shortened the blue wire up to the noise suppressor and add a ring crimp connector terminal.
Note: the unit will not work if connected to the positive (black) terminal of the coil.

I then opened up the black electrical connector box located in the front left corner of the engine compartment to make the following power and brake connections.

Red (Control Power) - Connect to Hot (positive) at all times
I decided to add (not supplied) a 15 AMP fuse holder and fuse to this connection as it is connected to a seeming un-fused circuit. I used a crimp connector to add a fuse holder to the red wire and then a ring crimp connector to the fuse holder to attach it to the 12V terminal stud within the box (red wires hot at all times).

Purple (Brake disconnect - turns unit off if brakes are applied) - Connect to hot (positive) when brake light on
Within the box I connected to the Black/Red wire which supplies power to the rear brake lamps. I used a 3m style tap connector to make the connection.

Brown/Yellow/Green – (Control unit wiring)
Extend wires and run to control switch (details in Step eight).

Gray/Black twinned wires
Remove from the servo unit as they are not required as they are used for the VSS (Black only) and/or Magnet pickup (Gray and Black). It is easier to do this before plugging the wiring connector into the Servo control unit. I used an awl and to unplug the grey terminal and clipped off the one associated black wire. The other black wire is retained as the servo ground.

Step Five – Vacuum Connections
A vacuum controlled cruise unit like the CCS 100 requires a steady supply of engine vacuum to operate. When the engine is operating under full or nearly full throttle conditions (going up a hill) the vacuum in the intake manifold will significantly decrease. It was suggested that the use of a check valve and auxiliary reserve may be required if you are have an automatic transmission, travel in hilly terrain, or drive with your foot to the floor at times. A check valve and auxiliary vacuum reserve will supple vacuum under those conditions.

I decided to build and utilize an auxiliary vacuum reserve. With a reserve and check valve in place the cruise has no problem keep the throttle pinned all the way up the longest hills. I tested the CCS 100 without a reserve and it did work reasonable well. You have the option of testing yourself and adding a reserve later if required.

Construction of a vacuum reserve
There is a great deal of information on the web on how to build a reserve and install a check valve as they are required when the CCS 100 is installed on motorcycles engines (Google “Audiovox CCS100 installation”). The optional Audiovox CCS 202 (PN 202) reserve canister is 3 3/8” x 3” could be used but it may be difficult to find. I decided something larger may be more effective so I used a 12” length of 3” ABS pipe and two end caps. Before mounting the caps I drilled, dry threaded and then glued two 1/2” male MIP x 3/16” barb fittings to one of the caps. I then glued on the caps.

Reserve Mounting and connections
I mounted the reserve in front of the right rear tail lamp housing in the vacant space.

I could find two primary options for a vacuum source. Tim Hannink suggested the use of the white vacuum line which runs from the top center of the intake manifold to the fuel system charcoal canister located near the right rear wheel well. This line had an inconsistent vacuum with engine RPM and was not suitable in my case (see Note 2). I choose to use the vacuum line which runs from the center lower left of the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator which is located adjacent to the distributor. I installed a tee fitting into the manifold line and used a short length of 3/16” hose to connect the tee back to the pressure regulator. From that tee I ran a short length of line to a double male 3/16” check valve and then continued the vacuum line to the reserve. One other vacuum line goes from the other reserve fitting to the cruise control unit. It is important to ensure that you do not have any leaks in the connections and fittings. You could use tie straps on any questionable fitting to ensure a superior seal.

Note:
1. It would be very hazards and do not consider slicing into the large vacuum line which goes from the intake manifold to the vacuum brake booster at the front of the vehicle.
2. When I first installed the cruise it would not work properly in test runs. I first checked all the wiring connections as per the trouble shooting section of the instructions. I then used a vacuum gauge to check the vacuum source and discovered that I did not have sufficient vacuum to the cruise servo unit from the charcoal canister line at increased RPM. I checked for leaks and the proper operation of the charcoal canister check valve (as per Bentley) and it was working but I still had greatly decreased vacuum as RPM increased from that line. Therefore I switched my vacuum source to the fuel pressure vacuum line. I would suggest that if you have access to vacuum gauge check your vacuum to the cruise servo while the vehicle is parked and as you operate the engine at increasing RPM’s manually.

Step Six – Dash Control Unit Mounting
A number of mounting options are available. If you do not have fog lamps you could use the vacant switch location below the hazard light switch. Should you not use the rear heater fan control you could use that switch location. I had both so I chose to mount the unit in a location similar to the rear heater switch but to the left of the steering column. It did require drilling a couple of Ό” holes through the sheet metal portion of the dash but I could live with that. I mounted the unit to the left of the steering column with double sided tape and ran the wires into the area above the fuse panel.

Step Seven - Dash Control Switch Wiring
For the following steps you will need to disconnect the battery and remove the single Philips screw to temporary pull the dash fuse panel down and out to provide access.

Black (ground) - connect to vehicle ground
I shortened this wire, added a .250 female crimp connector and plugged into one of the vacant spots on the frame grounding ring to the left and above the fuse panel.

Gray (display backlighting) - connect to hot when parking lights are on
There is a series of secondary fuses at the top of the fuse panel which included instrument lighting near the right side. It has a single grey/blue wire input and two grey/blue outputs. I shortened the grey cruise wire and used a 3M style tap connector to connecting into one of the grey/blue output wires. This allows for fuse protection and cruise panel dimming.

Red/Fuse/Orange (Dash control unit power) - connect to hot when ignition is on
When looking at the back of the fuse panel from the front by tipping it down you will see a series of vacant male terminals near the right side, between connections L and H (Bentley 97.119). These will be hot when ignition is on. I shortened the red cruise wire, added a (.250) female insulated crimp connector and plugged in. I mounted the new cruise fuse holder beside the instrument panel fuse on the top of the fuse block using double sided tape.

Step Eight – Running wires from Servo Control to Dash unit
You have three wires (brown, yellow and Green) which will need to be extended in length, protected with a covering and routed to the front of the van. A number of options are available with the primary choice being either inside or outside the interior of the vehicle.

I decided to route the wires under the van using 15’ of wire protector I extended the wires by soldering on approximately 20 feet of 16 gauge wire onto each of the wires and insulated the connections with heat shrink tubing. I saved the factory ends for reconnecting to the new wire ends once the final length was determined. I used lengths of spilt cable wire protector to cover all three wires for the distance that they run under the van and used tie straps to secure the cable to the frame or other wiring at regular intervals.

Two main options seem to be available to re-enter the interior behind the dash. They seem to be: With the antenna, beside the base of the steering column or through a hole in the large rubber grommet behind the lower center dash panel. I choose the third option. I had to remove the spare tire to gain access to the bottom of this grommet which is located in the spare compartment above the radiator fan assembly. The inside lower center dash panel can be removed by pulling it straight rearward while jiggling it. The cruise wires can then be run above the steering column to the fuse panel area.

All dash to servo wiring connection where made above the fuse panel as per the instruction manual.

Testing and Test Driving
The unit can be tested in the driveway with the vehicle in neutral. Just increase the RPM, turn on the cruise and set it. It should keep the approx. RPM. You can then finalize any loose connections before going for a test drive.

Once I had sorted out the vacuum source issues, I have had no problems from the unit. I completed 3000 kilometres of driving in August 2007 under various driving conditions without concerns

RBEmerson Thu Jan 19, 2012 4:03 pm

Summers420us wrote: Does anyone happen to have a copy of the instructions that were originally on this link?

http://vanagonwiki.net/index.php/Installation_of_an_Audiovox_model_CCS_100_Cruise_control

Follow this link to Murph's Kits and follow the link in the write-up (marked Installation Manual) for a PDF of the manual.

VWagabond Tue Jul 31, 2012 2:47 pm

For a different location away from the heat & rain, I put it under the rear seat, nestled behind the rear heater against the bulkhead. Put it in and Reinstalled the cover over the heater and it's out of sight & protected. If you're interested, I'll post a photo.
Tom

RBEmerson Tue Jul 31, 2012 5:32 pm

The only gripe I hear about that location is the servo "chatters" while it's working and the noise is noticeable. YMMV :)

stl_stadtroller Wed Aug 01, 2012 9:12 am

On my Syncro there were 3 rubber-mounted studs aft of the stock coil position where I think the Aux heater once lived.

I made a bracket which bolts to those studs that I then mounted the Audiovox servo unit to. It's about as high up in the engine compartment as you can get, near the tail light cavity where air would be coming down from.

My hope is that those rubber mounted studs will dampen any noise and the placement will keep it out of harm's way as much as possible.

RBEmerson Wed Aug 01, 2012 7:31 pm

A photo of the installed servo might help some folks. :)

stl_stadtroller Thu Aug 02, 2012 9:43 am

RBEmerson wrote: A photo of the installed servo might help some folks. :)

Had to flip it around after realizing the throttle pull on the H6 goes the other way. (duh :roll: )

Still on the same - ambidextrous! - bracket I made, but now more in the middle that up high.

I'm not concerned.


GarryA Thu Aug 02, 2012 10:01 am

RBEmerson wrote: Summers420us wrote: Does anyone happen to have a copy of the instructions that were originally on this link?

http://vanagonwiki.net/index.php/Installation_of_an_Audiovox_model_CCS_100_Cruise_control

Follow this link to Murph's Kits and follow the link in the write-up (marked Installation Manual) for a PDF of the manual.

I installed one from Murphs on my motorcycle. Their instructions are straight forward and generic enough that they should work well on a VW. Recently bought 2 more units for that reason. One is going on my 61DD. If you travel, cruise is the ticket.
I don't know why I crossed the continent so many times before I put it on the bike. Note third link in sig. :wink:

stl_stadtroller Fri Aug 24, 2012 12:34 pm

As a follow-up to this thread - I finally have me rig on the road, and the CC is responding - however only at lower speeds.
I am now set up to read only the tach signal wire (I'm running a 6cyl) and have the DIP switches set per the instructions above.

The unit only seems to want to set a speed of 55 or slower, and won't even engage at higher speeds ie - 60mph and up

Any ideas from those who've been there done that?

RBEmerson Tue Aug 28, 2012 7:08 am

I had the same problem originally until I changed the PPM setting and sensitivity. Although you have a 6 cyl. engine, try playing with the PPM settings and try a lower sensitivity setting.

You must disconnect the servo when changing settings! As long as the servo has power, it remembers the DIP switch settings and does not use the switch itself as the source for the options selected.

Did you use a vacuum accumulator in front of the servo? Murph's Kits sells an accumulator that also has a built-in one-way valve. "Don't leave home without it!" :)

stl_stadtroller Tue Aug 28, 2012 8:48 am

RBEmerson wrote: I had the same problem originally until I changed the PPM setting and sensitivity. Although you have a 6 cyl. engine, try playing with the PPM settings and try a lower sensitivity setting.

yep

drove to Nashville and back this weekend and after several trial-and-error attempts finally got it working a treat!

My settings are now:
Tach signal only - VSS not connected at all: the unit was causing my SmallCar VSS pickups to short out and fail after about 30 miles of driving. Figured that out after burning through 3 of them.

Tach range set to the highest setting 8K rpm I think?

Sensitivity set to Medium

Unit seems to operate great, the only quirk is that after passing it will drop below your set speed briefly by about 2-3mph and then pick back up.

I do have an Aux Vacuum canister with a built-in check valve installed. It didn't come with the kit / bought it from Amazon for cheap.

RBEmerson Tue Aug 28, 2012 9:53 am

I think that's where I ended up, too.



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