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Fri Jan 27, 2012 10:14 am

At first I too thought it was loss of fuel pressure (bad fuel pump), but because the tach goes to zero when this happens I'm leaning more towards hall sensor. I will replace the hall sensor at work today and see how the trip home goes, I will bring a fuel pump with me home in case the problem persists. I would think if it was just a fuel issue that the tach would still read engine speed as I'm coasting in gear down the freeway with the ignition on...

Time will tell.

Fri Jan 27, 2012 11:18 pm

Borrowed and installed a used distributor from Paul. Made it to west sac tonight without issue! Average speed was 60 MPH...

Fri Jan 27, 2012 11:36 pm

Hopefully you found the demon. I was going to say electrical and not fuel related if the tach dies. Ignition switch like others mentioned also causes similar issues and they are cheap to replace :)

Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:14 pm

Problem seems to have been rectified with a used distributor, which points to hall sensor failure.

Here are some pics of our trip:

Yes, my mirrors are droopy, especially when my wife slams the passenger door shut...

notice I didn't take a picture of the HUGE dent in the slider door... :lol:

Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:18 pm

Here are some pictures from the for sale ad:

The van was absolutely FILTHY inside and out. The kitchen had been removed, and needs to be removed again so I can clean under / behind it. I need to hook up the propane line (thats missing) to the stove and the water lines to the sink. I have a Truck Fridge, so not sure I will hook propane up to the dometic, prolly just run a line to the back seat for the Green propex I have in my living room.

Anyone want to do a wrench day? I'm also missing some shelves/shelve pegs. and something is amis with the storage cabinet next to the fridge not sure how the odd shaped wood is supposed to go in there, its just all flopping around...

Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:19 pm

Our Westy failed smog on HC :cry: Any suggestions? It is a bit lumpy at idle, but I was told that's how these are?

Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:24 pm

kuleinc wrote:
Anyone want to do a wrench day? .

contact me by PM, that sounds like fun, have some experience with cabinets and interior...

Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:22 pm

Got some NGK three prong spark plugs today, need to install them this weekend. I hope I don't need a cat. I did changed the distributor the other day and installed it in the same position as the old one. Anyone have a better or more clear method for timing the engine besides the mess of instructions in the bently?

Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:32 pm

anyone have any input on the pop top vent? Are the GW dual pane ones worth the $$$ or just get one from van cafe?

Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:57 pm

not sure if this applies to your smog situation, but it might
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5814848&highlight=smog#5814848

Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:04 pm

I realize the PO is supposed to supply a smog cert, I don't care about that, just need to get it running right and pass smog. I bought it from some people who sold the van because they couldn't afford it anymore and it no longer suited their lifestyle.

but thanks for the link. :D

Tue Jan 31, 2012 12:25 am

Hey Kuleinc:

Three different things can cause the engine cut-out with tachometer drop out:

1. Bad ignition switch as mentioned above;
2. Bad hall sensor;
3. Cracked printed circuit board in the ECU at the ECU harness connector.

For #3 above, see my prior post on the same topic, copied below:

Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 2:22 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey Dan:

I had exactly the same symptoms a couple years ago. Although it can also be caused by a bad Hall sensor in the distributor, in more cases, it is caused by the torque forces of the ECU harness connector fracturing the printed circuit board in the ECU. Bear in mind that the ECU side of the connection is merely a piece of the PC board.

See my previous post cut and pasted below for my fix:

"I had similar problems on my '86 syncro. John, of Van Wonder auto service in North Vancouver BC told me that the problem was likely my ECU. He said that the harness attaching to the ECU exerts pulling/pushing on the ECU circuit board where the harness attaches to it. It then creates a small crack in the circuit traces and if the harness moves, or heat causes expansion, then some of the circuits go open and the ECU goes into limp-home mode or causes a stall, depending on which circuit goes open and for how long.

The most important tell-tale sign that your problem is the ECU is that when the engine is acting up, your tach needle will bounce all over the place as though your ignition was being turned on and off.

If anyone you know can lend you their ECU (one that is known to be good) for a test, do the swap and test. Otherwise, do as follows below.

The fix:
1. Disconnect and dismount the ECU;
2. flip the ECU so the side that was at the top is now at the bottom, but the harness connection is still facing rearward;
3. Drill new mounting holes as necessary to attch the ECU;
4. Turn the harness 180 degrees and re-connect it to the ECU;
5. Re-install the ECU mounting screws in the new holes you drilled.
6. Enjoy your no-dollar repair.

This worked for me and apparently for John on 90% of ECU's with the same problem. The harness now puts an opposite force on the circuit board, thus closing the cracks that were previously opened with movement or heat or what-have-you."

Tue Jan 31, 2012 12:35 am

Regarding passing smog, the basics are as follows\;

1. Replace your oxygen sensor and be sure to use anti-seize compound on the threads;
2. At the same time, replace your cat convertor, but save the old one.
3. Change your oil and filter using 20W-50 oil, preferably synthetic ( not a smog necessity, but just good idea to use synthetic);
4. Ensure you have no exhaust leaks and if so, repair;
5. Check for and correct any vacuum leaks;
6. new plugs are a maintenance item, but installing them just before a smog test is ideal;
7. Just for the smog test, adjust your idle speed screw and raise idle to around 1,000 rpm. This improves idle performance and lessens probability of misses.
8. After passing the smog test, remove your "test cat", reinstall the old one, return idle to 850 RPM and use the "test cat" for your next smog test. These WBX engines can kill a cat quickly with just one drawn-out event of running problems, so having a "test cat" is a good idea.

Tue Jan 31, 2012 12:48 am

kuleinc wrote: anyone have any input on the pop top vent? Are the GW dual pane ones worth the $$$ or just get one from van cafe?

got your PM! will get back to you soon,

not sure dual pane is worth the money, check out this place and call the guy with your question, everybody says he is super helpful. I don't think any of the lenses sold by GoWesty are dual pane but they have a more affordable aftermarket lens.

http://theskylightguy.com/products-page/skylights-and-accessories

Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:24 am

Thanks for the tips on smog. As far as a test cat, get a 48 state one or a Cali one for tests?

Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:38 am

Howesight wrote: Hey Kuleinc:
[...]
The harness now puts an opposite force on the circuit board, thus closing the cracks that were previously opened with movement or heat or what-have-you."

Uh... fine for avoiding having to replace an ECU in the field, but those cracks won't heal themselves. Betting that all will stay well after flipping the ECU is... shall we say "ill-advised"? I agree that changing the orientation could (and, from the note, 90% of the time does) give a good result. But the cracks are still there, creating resistances not included in the design, and giving places for current to arc over, which adds to resistance, erodes the traces, and generally does electrically bad things.

In short, if your budget is tight and you have to get the vehicle back on the road, go for it. But as a long term fix? Nah. Replace the ECU and secure the cabling so the problem doesn't repeat.

Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:23 am

kuleinc wrote: anyone have any input on the pop top vent? Are the GW dual pane ones worth the $$$ or just get one from van cafe?

You might want to consider this option. Works great.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3...mp;start=0

Brent

Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:42 am

If I am going to adjust my front wheel bearings should I also remove, clean, and repack them?

Regarding rear wheel bearings: If they seem to have play can they be adjusted or do they just need to be replaced? Check torque on big wheel nuts????

Tue Feb 07, 2012 3:04 pm

When trying to check my timing (trying to pass smog, and probably failing due to timing) the V notch seems to be to the right of the case center line at idle... when I adjust it the engine doesn't seem to run right... Anything else I should be checking?

Tue Feb 07, 2012 4:13 pm

Howesight wrote: Hey Kuleinc:

Three different things can cause the engine cut-out with tachometer drop out:

1. Bad ignition switch as mentioned above;
2. Bad hall sensor;
3. Cracked printed circuit board in the ECU at the ECU harness connector.

For #3 above, see my prior post on the same topic, copied below:

Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 2:22 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey Dan:

I had exactly the same symptoms a couple years ago. Although it can also be caused by a bad Hall sensor in the distributor, in more cases, it is caused by the torque forces of the ECU harness connector fracturing the printed circuit board in the ECU. Bear in mind that the ECU side of the connection is merely a piece of the PC board.

See my previous post cut and pasted below for my fix:

"I had similar problems on my '86 syncro. John, of Van Wonder auto service in North Vancouver BC told me that the problem was likely my ECU. He said that the harness attaching to the ECU exerts pulling/pushing on the ECU circuit board where the harness attaches to it. It then creates a small crack in the circuit traces and if the harness moves, or heat causes expansion, then some of the circuits go open and the ECU goes into limp-home mode or causes a stall, depending on which circuit goes open and for how long.

The most important tell-tale sign that your problem is the ECU is that when the engine is acting up, your tach needle will bounce all over the place as though your ignition was being turned on and off.

If anyone you know can lend you their ECU (one that is known to be good) for a test, do the swap and test. Otherwise, do as follows below.

The fix:
1. Disconnect and dismount the ECU;
2. flip the ECU so the side that was at the top is now at the bottom, but the harness connection is still facing rearward;
3. Drill new mounting holes as necessary to attch the ECU;
4. Turn the harness 180 degrees and re-connect it to the ECU;
5. Re-install the ECU mounting screws in the new holes you drilled.
6. Enjoy your no-dollar repair.

This worked for me and apparently for John on 90% of ECU's with the same problem. The harness now puts an opposite force on the circuit board, thus closing the cracks that were previously opened with movement or heat or what-have-you."

I haven't looked at the ECU stuff in a Vanagon yet... but you can literally bake electronics and often times fix stress/flex cracks in soldered components. It would be good to try and find out what type of solder is used on Vanagon ECUs, but you can probably bake a flaky ECU and possibly rescue it :)

http://www.addictivetips.com/hardware/fix-your-graphics-card-by-baking-in-oven/