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Thu Feb 02, 2012 12:48 am

Recently got stuck into my '67 Squareback and started a thread over in the Type 3 forum - Pete's '67 Squareback Build. On opening the crank case I found what looks like cause to buy a new case, and reason to start a build thread over here.

I'm hoping to build a reliable 1600 dual-port engine with good quality parts. I already have Mahle 85.5 cylinders, some OEM Brazilian heads (043 I think) plus a new set of Weber 40 IDFs which I was going to add to the engine in a straightforward rebuild. Now that it looks like I'll need a new case I'm thinking of getting a little deeper into the build to make something nice of it.

No pictures yet, I'm going to see if I can transfer the posts from my build thread.

Thu Feb 02, 2012 3:35 am

Check the valve size in those 043´s. If they are the newer version they only have 33/30 mm valves. That will limit the power somewhat.

T

Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:56 am

I checked out your pictures and think it needs to be measured before saying it's trash. It may; however, only be good for a stock rebuild.
The fret marks on the case half are not very attractive either. There are certainly better cases out there you could use.

Thu Feb 02, 2012 6:11 am

After looking at the pics again I see what I think is either an adapter or large shim like was mentioned in the other thread.
If that is; then trash it.

Fri Feb 03, 2012 4:00 pm

Here are the pictures of my old case to save jumping from thread to thread.

I've had a look at my heads, the valve sizes are 35mm and 32mm, which I hope are going to suffice in my plans for a mild 1600 Dual Port. I wonder why one version of the head has smaller intakes and exhausts - I read that it was for FI engines, what would be the reason for the smaller valves?

I measured the case at the flywheel quickly with a set of verniers - 66.2mm. I'm guessing this means the case might have been bored out for an 0.04in oversized bearing, or more likely 0.05in. Either way, this seems to be close to the upper limit. The shims / adaptors used were ~ 3mm thick. Does this mean that someone thrust cut ~ 3mm into the case? That seems like a lot. The other side of the case shows a very thin shiny line that might be the extent of the cut which looks more ~1mm or so, but I can't be sure. The dowel pin at the flywheel end is also really wobbly, something I'm not comfortable with.

I will be getting a new case - the next thing I need to consider is whether I should be re-using the internals. The only way to find out for sure us by measuring I think.

Fri Feb 03, 2012 4:51 pm

get an OG couterweighted crank and have some chamber & valve work done on your heads.
you will not regret it.

have someone who knows what's up get you the right size vents & jets for the IDFs.

i like my current 1600 way better than my former 1776 because of the attention to details like the crank & heads.

Fri Feb 03, 2012 6:06 pm

Here's another option to consider, FWIW: http://www.hornbyislandwares.com/acn/1737/1800cc-vw-engine-no-machine-combo/

Sun May 13, 2012 12:58 am

It's been a while since I've posted but I've decided on a direction for my Type 3 engine and started collecting parts for the engine. I've chosen a 1600 as it will be my first build and I'd like to see how it performs, more as a base point before I go building anything larger. I had originally intended to run this engine and build a larger one in parallel for later, but that will have to wait for now. Here are the parts, some I already have and the rest to be ordered in the next couple of weeks:

VW Universal Dual Relief case, 85.5 bore
Scat Volksracer 69mm Crank
Scat H Beam Rods, VW Journal STD length
85.5 Mahle 'a' Cylinders
35x32 OEM Dual Port Heads, 043 Casting - Actual Head Work TBC
Engle W100 Cam
Bugpack Forged 1.25 Ratio Rockers
AC Net HD Aluminium Push Rods
Weber 40 IDFs

I have yet to decide on exhaust, but plan to keep my heater boxes. Also, I'm undecided on compression but I'm going to try and aim for somewhere around 8.5

My plan is to blueprint everything, have some work done to the heads and have the rotating assembly balanced. I want to have an engine that is not necessarily fast, but looks close to stock, runs smoothly and will last. It's kind of an overkill engine, and I'd love to hear your opinions although keep in mind this build will always be a 1600. Bigger will be the next build.

Sun May 13, 2012 9:19 am

I think you have a good combo planned out. Here's my thoughts. Rods: the H beams are way overkill for this application. Stock VW rods would be all you really need. Heads: you mentioned earlier you had 2 different heads, one was FI with smaller valves. I think you should have matching 35.5 x 32mm heads. You don't want an imbalance on the valve sizes in your heads. As Borninabus mentioned and as you planned, it would be well worth it to have a good 3 angle valve job done as well as some clean up work done on the ports and chambers. This is key as you'll gain power and efficiency. The more portwork you do the more you'll benefit from the 1.25 rockers although it still won't be much. In fact, if you haven't bought them yet I'd save the money and pass on the 1.25's. Cam: Engle W100 cam is a good selection. Use Engle's lifters too. The stock cam gears will be fine, you don't need straight cut gears. I'd recommend a set of HD single valve springs with this cam. CR: Keep deck height tight, around 0.050". If you want to run lower octane gas keep CR around 8:1 or if you want to run higher octane then 8.5:1 will be fine. With the 40IDF's, good head work, W100 cam and a good 1 3/8" header you'll maximize the engines breathing and efficiency, a very good thing. Only other things I can think of are tap the case for full flow oiling, Light or stock flywheel...your call, either way you're good. A stock HD clutch will be fine, you don't need something like a Kennedy 1700lb in there. My 2 cents.

Sun May 13, 2012 2:56 pm

Thanks Darth,

I actually have two of the same 043 heads, both with the larger valve size. I will follow your and Borninabus' advice and have some clean up work done, as well as a valve job and probably port match them with my IDF manifolds.

I've read a fair bit about 1.25 rockers not doing too much for performance, but the bug pack forged set are not much more than say a CB set of 1.1 rockers. My thinking being that it couldn't hurt to have a set that was forged rather than cast. I'm willing to play around with the geometry a little to get them working right.

Thanks for letting me know about the H beams, it might be some money I can spend elsewhere on the car.

I'm certainly down for full flow. Seems like something I shouldn't go without, especially with longevity in mind.

Once again, thanks for your help guys - I'm starting to feel good about this build!

Wed Jun 27, 2012 3:39 am

Just got most of my full flow hose fittings and braided hose today, all the fittings are in anodised black - they look great! Once they're out of the packets I'll take a photo to put up here. Most of the other parts for the engine are still on the way over here.

I also have some fire braid to cover the hose. I'm wondering if this will this help keep oil temperatures down, or if the difference will be negligible. I plan to do a few road trips up the Hume Hwy once it's built, I remember as a kid stopping in NSW once where the temperature was 50 deg (C). I'd like to do as much as I can to keep the engine cool, but I'd like to keep everything as stock as possible at the same time, i.e. no external oil cooler. Apart from the obvious tins and thermostat, what are the issues I will need to address?

Wed Jun 27, 2012 5:58 am

You could skip tapping the block and use a sump with a built in filter. I think it's better to filter the oil before the pump. And it adds extra oil to the system.