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Thu Feb 16, 2012 5:53 pm

Alright well i have all new cables just hooked up the bellows and everything. Only problem is i have no idea on how this damn thing works have looked at it and played with it for hours. The cables are in and everything is ready, i have all the parts but it doesn't make any sense on how the cable slides up and down in that threaded sleeve. Is there suppose to be a spring on the actual heater boxes in the back to force the cables back up sleeve??

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416080&highlight=heater+cable

From looking at that diagram this is suppose to work backwards? the knob all the way in is open and knob screwed all the way out is closed? Its not the stock motor it has the 1600 heater boxes in it if that makes a difference

Please help, rebuilt this whole damn car and the simplest thing is giving me the most trouble.

Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:17 pm

Cody1956 wrote:

From looking at that diagram this is suppose to work backwards? the knob all the way in is open and knob screwed all the way out is closed? Its not the stock motor it has the 1600 heater boxes in it if that makes a difference

Yes the heater boxes each have return springs built into them.
Yes, that is the way the heater knob works.

Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:40 pm

Also, notice that there is a slot in the part that the cable attaches to (the part that slides into the sleeve) The groove on that part must line up with a pin inside the sleeve to keep the whole works from rotating when the knob is turned.

Use a flashlight to peek down the hole and find that pin so you get the whole works lined up correctly.

Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:22 am

alright i will try this. There doesnt seem like there is enough tension from the springs on the heater boxes to return that cable, would i have to add another spring?

Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:25 am

Have you greased the cables??

Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:42 am

yes they are brand new

Fri Feb 17, 2012 12:34 pm

Are they old?

Ok, now that you've answered that, are they greased?

Fri Feb 17, 2012 1:32 pm

Cody1956 wrote:
From looking at that diagram this is suppose to work backwards? the knob all the way in is open and knob screwed all the way out is closed?

This is one of those perplexing designs that doesn't always make sense right away until you stop and think a bit about how it works. The knob does not move in and out (or up and down), it turns the screw which makes the cylinder move up and down inside the tunnel. Cable is attached to the cylinder.

Fri Feb 17, 2012 1:55 pm

As you feed the cable ends in you have to grease the full length of each.
Not doing so will result in too much friction and drag, even if the cable is new.

Personally have never needed an extra spring on the heat exchangers. If the pivots in the HEs are to tight with perhaps rust you might need to lubricate up those. A mixture of oil and graphite would be best. The oil will not last long with the heat, but helps the graphite get flushed into the pivots and stick there initially. The graphite is the perfect lubrication for higher temp areas.

Make sure to use some type of never seize with threaded parts in direct contact with the exhaust, and copper nuts from Toyota exhaust systems are a must.

Fri Feb 17, 2012 3:15 pm

well they are lubed and work great. I guess my other question is; that cylinder that slides in and out, is there a different size for different years cause mine bottoms out on the heater tubes at the bottom and has no room for play? I have heard that the early ones are longer then the 56-57

Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:41 pm

Parts manual only lists one part number for that from Oct52 to July64.

111 711 681 Clevis - Heating Control Cable
F 397 023 ---- 6 502 399