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Mon Feb 20, 2012 1:17 am

Put my pedals together, bolted them in, and noticed that there's a big round spring between the accelerator and the brake pedal. I'm pretty sure it's for the accelerator pedal pad, right? I took that off and have one of the rolling pedals from Topline. Just wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything while putting the pedals together, because I can't tell what this would hook to.
Also, if someone has a good topic bookmarked on adjusting the brake pedal stop plate and push rod, I'd appreciate a link. Been reading a bunch of topics on it but they are calling out factory settings and such I'm unsure of.

Mon Feb 20, 2012 2:24 am

that big round spring hooks to the brake pedal, at the same spot as the push rod, and then curls round to tension the brake pedal.

push rod should be done to give you about 1/4" of free play at the pedal

There IS a spring for the accelerator pedal, but it is a wimpy little thing down at the hinge, puts just a little tension on the pedal to keep it up against the throttle cable lever stuff.

Wed Feb 22, 2012 9:36 pm

Bumping this to see if anyone has a picture of the master cylinder push rod set to factory. Want to make sure mine hasn't been messed with while I'll have the pedals off again. Or a thread count on it. Or a measurement from the tip to the nut.

Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:05 am

Vinnems wrote: Bumping this to see if anyone has a picture of the master cylinder push rod set to factory. Want to make sure mine hasn't been messed with while I'll have the pedals off again. Or a thread count on it. Or a measurement from the tip to the nut.

What matters is the clearance between the rod and the piston. What fits/works in one car, doesn't mean it will work in another. Good luck.

Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:34 am

69, I keep seeing in searches that it's a factory setting that shouldn't be messed with. Are you saying otherwise? Please educate me on this because this is completely new territory for me. All I'm getting is that you want the rod a certain length, set at the factory, that will still be able to push the furthest circuit fully in case the nearest circuit fails.
74 Super, in case I didn't mention it.

Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:45 am

Imo, the most important measurement is having 1mm clearance between the rod and piston. More than that you won't have the proper throw, no clearance can cause big issues such as building pressure in the system. These are forty plus year old vehicles and things change. Things move, specs can be different from different manufacturers of masters, etc. As long as the mentioned measurement is attained, you will be good to go. There is a chance no adjusting will be needed. Hopefully that clears it up for you.

btw, There are two separate circuits since one operates the front brakes, the other works the rear.

Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:51 am

Thanks Jim. Wasn't calling you out saying you were wrong or anything, just trying to get some clear answers on this because more often than not, searching here turns up a bunch of "I've heard" or "My friend says" and very little facts.

Thu Feb 23, 2012 11:01 am

Vinnems wrote: Thanks Jim. Wasn't calling you out saying you were wrong or anything, just trying to get some clear answers on this because more often than not, searching here turns up a bunch of "I've heard" or "My friend says" and very little facts.

Sure I understand. Countless posters have chimed in wondering why their brakes lock up after driving a few miles, and that is the culprit. Have you checked the pedal stop? Also make sure the pedal pin and the eye in the rod have a nice fit and not excessively worn. I am not familiar with Supers, and don't know how the pedal stop is situated. Good luck, and let us know what you find.

Thu Feb 23, 2012 11:34 am

Agree with 69Jim

Thu Feb 23, 2012 2:48 pm

Good read.
http://www.vw-resource.com/pressure.html