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Mon Apr 02, 2012 6:46 am

For the missing peice. To clarify, you are correct, bondo would be the wrong choice. Resin alone has no strength. You will need to use some fiberglass cloth or mat. From the underside, you will need to grind back at least an inch tapering to the broken edge. Acetone will soften the glass enough for the resin to adhere properly.

On the outside, place a peice of packaging clear tape over the missing peice. This will act as a dam as you lay the cloth resin on the back side. The missing area will get more material than the area you feathered. Essentially you are building up the material.

Once the fiberglass sets, flip the roof over and grind the area where the new glass meets the old, plus an inch feathered. Lay one layer of mat and resin. This will lock your patch. Once it hardens, you can then grind/sand and finish with filler and primer.

Mon Apr 02, 2012 12:47 pm

Yes, definitely plan on using some hair to reinforce it.

Thanks for the reminder!

So, I just dropped the order for the 20x32 SFC sunroof with the shade from Sunroofdoctor.com, that should arrive Friday..

As soon as that's in hand this project kicks into high gear.. then I can template the roof steel, template the basket, make a final decision for sunroof location, and start cutting.. then start priming and painting the fiberglass top.

I was on the fence with a slimmer/wider version, but I figure the basket is 19x47 or somethin close to that and slightly rounded at the bow, so I figure more front/back real estate would be nice. Along with that, am going to be fabbing up some "jail bars" to fill the void, and allow for storage to be had if desired.

Also by Friday I should then have all my brackets/bars back from powdercoating.. should I'm in for an eventful weekend. Decided to do away with the rusted, chipped tan paint on all associated brackets, also tossed the hinge at em too, they're all goin Satin black.

Till then, during the week I'm going to be repairing/cutting body line behind the fridge.. no better time to do it.. mmmm, fun.

Fri Apr 06, 2012 9:10 am

Ahh yes, today is the day, eagerly looking forward to get my sunroof in delivery so I can get to cutting on the basket.. get that into prep, and install the sunroof this weekend, on my ONE friggin day off. Fun.

As I'm working in a rental two car garage, a "containment" area was needed for a couple reasons, 1. Keep the dust to a min 2. Be able to heat 3. Speed dehumidify the fiberglass.

Last night a buddy and I built the containment room out of light wood and plastic dropcloth. Overall cost was about 30$.

I used 6 2x2x8's, overlapping two lengths at 16inches, screwed the lengths together with long drywall screws to form a roughly 14 ft length of 2x2 to comprise the sides of the frame, 8 footers for two primary cross pieces, used 1x2s for the lighter cross braces at the ends.

Pics to be had tonight.. Ideally what I built was a lightweight wooden frame to hang 8 ft off the ground, so I can mount two smaller florescent lights for a tad more lighting, used ropes to suspend the frame from the ceiling, and 9x12 dropcloths for the end wall, and 10x20 plastic for the side/walls.

Now that's ready to go.. I'm picking up the fiberglass resin supply tonight after work then get to filling of the afforementioned "dental work" I performed on the scratches, need to fill the ground out sections so that has some time to dry, but imagine I should be into my first solvent clean and sanding session tommorrow morning, give it 4-6 hours to dry in the heated dehumidified containment area.. then start rolling on the primer hopefully tommorrow late afternoon.

Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:52 am

So, some update pics.

Carved out the fiberglass, and prepped the roof steel.

This sunroof is awesome. I picked it up from Sunroofdoctor.com, its the SFC 20"x32", came with a clip in light blockout card, the roof has two open positions.

The instructions are in English, easy to read, seems easy to install. (should be getting to that tonight)

The plan is to cut the steel and get the sunroof installed tonight after work.

I'm really on the fence with a full body spray, there are body panels to fix, and my slider door is in real poor shape, along with the previous repair to the OE antennae location, it was welded over, the nose is also in very chipped condition, a paint job would be a good idea, but would be a step back in the time dept....

Sure I'd like a nice lookin ride for our tour accross North America.

I'm over 200 in paint for this top alone with the Interlux paint, spending 3-4 would get me the supply to do the body spray.

The body also has a maaco jobbie from the gutter down, and I would like to do it right. So, I've made my case with the lady, we've got a paint spraybooth credit of a couple days.. I think that may be the route we double back to.

I think if Rubbachicken can paint in the drive (awesome by the way) then I have little excuse to do it in a booth. I am forseeing the dust/debris tent Being the place I do all the prep/body work before shooting it.

I picked up some SEM rocker texturing which is intended to go between coats under the paint, so as to get back that textured roof.. So.. I think that's where we're changing course to..

Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:16 am

Terry Kay wrote: Really.

I would suggest you call that citrus outfit, and find out what's going to make that stuff go into a neutral state.

More really---
I've experienced more dummies out in the real world chemical strippng more than one Corvette.

Guess what?

When they got all done, the paint rolled off of them, and they HOT WATER power washed the clear base coat, primer, sealer, off for a month before they even tried to get paint to stick again.

I've done it once on a Mack Hood.
Big pain in the arse.
A weeks worth of getting the crap outa the fiberglass.
3500 psi hot water pressure wash, plus baking soda washes in between.

Bad move--not much thinking on this move on stripping the pop top.
Plus--you using the Ronco Pocket Plastic Gaff to run it in there some more.
Who suggested you use the miracle Tile., wood, plaster & concrete tool?

Big Boo-Boo.

Seems soda blasting may be the safest for fiberglass? looks to be the preferred method for the Corvette crowd. Kinda the reason I bought a convertable blaster (media/soda), so I can blast off the oxidation and easily refinish. I do not remember, but was original poptop paint a matte or gloss finish? I do not remember any of my family's being glossy.

I really like the two tone idea as seen earlier in this thread. Although my pop top is white and will stay that way, the center square in a reflective silver might help with heat a little bit? Any opinions/experience/results?

OP - I think that since you removed the fuzz (which I was under belief that it was for condensation evaporation), and now have a clean slate, I always thought a fresco type mural would be great in there. Maybe the Sistene Chapel? :)

The whole idea of my face on Adam's body in a sistene copy just made me laugh.

Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:26 am

Hey Chojinchef,

I dont know if I'm hippie enough to do a mural.. but I do have some nifty updates in mind. Quick, hopefully not too involved.

As I'm at work today, and its dead slow, here's what I have in mind.

I am with you on the condensation bit.. The OEM fuzz was a full time mildew sentence, literally the hair was missing in the latter half of the top's interior, nasty nasty business. I'm also very allergic to mold.

I'd seen the same mildew on a couple other local's vans, which I'm unsure the VW fuzz answer was a proper solution for moisture.

I saw a local shop, where they stripped the interior fuzz, and used a headliner material, foam/fabric which was glued right to the fiberglass, didnt think they used anythign else..

Perhaps I'd spent too much time in my friends' dad's yacht where they're doing a ceiling.. using some of my building background.. I wanted to take it to another level.. A couple updates are needed for my tree fort on wheels.

I think I've settled on rigging some Homedepot supply 1/2" "C" channel extruded aluminum, sometimes referred to as "Architectural" aluminum channel to provide cross supports for a couple things..

I took a moment using one of my garage shots of the raw fiberglass top,

Here is the idea,

The channel, will hold up Tyvek sandwiched into the top (allow moisture in/out), then either one or two layers (depends on fitment) bubble wrap spaceblanket style insulation and or a semi rigid foam insulation, then panels of marine grade superthin laminate (dunn lumber) hit it with a 1/4 round router bit, then wrapp it in some sort of fabric, which i feel toward the bed should be a vinyl, but closer to the skylight would change to a headliner material which will finish off the ceiling. overall the thing will still breathe, and be insulated, a proper foundation for the next upgrades for the upper bunk, LED lights, room for routing cabling 12v/USB/Stereo (4 inch speakers in the roof) and netting based storage (gowesty supply) so you can use the ceiling as a storage, a more useable upper living space.

Now, for moisture, I am also going to be installing some Soffit material (home depot aluminum extrusion which will allow minor air movement/ so as to reduce the potential for mold again.

This will drop the ceiling into the OEM bed.. however I yanked all that business nearly two years ago. Its history.

I will be rebuilding the upper bunk foam to be a bit thinner/spartan using a camping pad, and a vinyl wrapped onto the board, stapled onto the backside (NO SEWING), If we desire additional comfort, the lower bed foams are being created to be movable, and can be repurposed to upper bunk for additional comfort shuold we decide to kick it up there.

Your comment makes me think about my interior paint approach.

Being as I'm going to split this project into a little now, a little later, I'm going to return the bulk of the Interlux paint, retaining 1 quart brushing liquid, 1 of solvent, one of primer and then return the Steel Gray, and go with more of a color that will match the Gowesty tent grey. There will be a need to seal it, and to keep any mold from coming back, pretty sure its totally gone, and to provide a nice finish.

This will take out some of the guesswork when doing the chassis, and exterior fiberglass paint.

Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:29 am

Hi,

I have a friend who put in a similar skylight in his '82 westy and it is a great addition. Couple of minor problems with it though, without some sort of lip straight down from hole in luggage rack to van roof, leaves and debris collects under the luggage rack. Also the cut edge of the bottom of the luggage rack is quite flexible if not supported. Not big issues, just a heads up.

alistair

Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:33 am

As for the rigidity, the top did seem pretty stable, notice I didnt cut the WHOLE top out. I am building a removable Jailbar platform so I can use the cargo area still, while keeping some functionality of the sunroof.

Debris is certainly a focus of that sunroof modification.

I have a plan for that, its going to involve drop skirting (like you mention)closer and Gutter foam, very similar to this:

The reason I cut the fiberglass back was to allow for that drop/foam to seal closer to the roof steel. I feel little debris is gettin past it.. Sure I may have to climb up and remove some off the top if it does not blow out, but I will have access, and the stuff wont tuck under the fiberglass. :) It was just crazy to see the handfuls of leaves and crap when I removed the cargo topper portion..

Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:36 am

about pop top interior insulation, I experimented with closed cell foam covered with fabric and held in with an edge strip (box section unlike c-section you plan on using). I had bonding issues with the fabric to foam gluing, got some wrinkles. I found that the pop top mech. at the roof, and the folding struts did interfere and some trimming of the box section was needed. I wanted the foam pad to be removable and that probably was the more difficult way to go.

I have some pics here:

http://shufti.wordpress.com/2011/07/12/vanagon-pop-top-insulation/

no shots of my box section and pop top mechanism issues though, at that stage I was racing the clock and too pissed off to take pics.

alistair

Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:43 am

WOW.. its good to see someone who actually did something like that.

I'm using a somewhat removable, bolted in marine ply/panelling wrapped in fabric. This stuff is all going to be fit prior to the top exterior paint job

I like the idea of using a layer of foam for a softer touch/padding, it would be a better idea than my rigid panel approach..

Jeez. Too cool!

Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:51 am

to be cautious, do trial fitment of pop top struts to roof before screwing and gluing C-section.

one other problem that I did not foresee was how much the closed cell foam expanded with heat. I had the top upside down outside in the sun and measured and cut the foam to fit. Next morning when foam brought out to double check, it had shrunk 3/8 - 1/2" on long dimension.

A real pita.

good luck

alistair

Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:57 pm

Thanks for the pointers on the expansion with the closed cell and the lift brackets.

I just sunk the 20x32 sunroof tonight, just finished up at sunset on a 65 Degree somewhat Warm evening for Seattle, so took the van down for a quick grocery run, it was sure nice to connect with the sky.

Should have toms pics tommorrow, it was too dark to snap some.

Next steps from here, before I make too much more of a mess of the garage, I need start into resin coating/sanding the fiberglass (both sides), getting it into sand/prime/paint stages, bag up the top ready to prime at the booth, then do the bodywork, letting the marine paint cure, install the tent and false ceiling at the last moment, giving me more design time, still need to source the aluminum

Sat Apr 28, 2012 7:19 pm

well, over the last several weeks, I've been cleaning, patching fiberglass, and tonight got the first prime on.

This is Interlux Precote, one heavy layer to soak it up, rolled out with a 4 inch high density foam roller and 6 inch trays from Home depot. During the drying process I kept re-rolling, tipped it out so I'll have less sanding.

As the primer sticks to nearly anything, I'm thinking only one coat is going to be needed, then I'm off to block sand this sucker after work Sunday and on to the topcoating in Steel grey

pics of the progress:

I wanted to paint the interior first so I can roll the van into paint booth and shoot the fiberglass separately. Will bag off the interior grey from overspray and shoot it all in LC3Y bordeaux metallic..

As to whether I have someone take on the body paint, or whether I do it myself is going to be the next pressing issue.

I have been to a couple paint supply shops, right about 600 for the paint supply, surely it will be about another hundred for masking, and possibly renting a booth for a three day paint spree which I can snag a non heated booth for 210 for a three day weekend, or a heated pro booth for 8-5pm access for 200 a day.

I think I'd like full access and be able to rock out without a babysitter.

To have someone take on the paint, I'm seeing quotes upward of 5-7K.

Luckily my background has granted me with exposure in spraying enough substrates with a variety of materials/conditions, that I feel I can take on a full body paint.

Being I work in a office for my day job.. I'm so not used to bending over/ sanding, and find that stretching breaks are a requirement to avert serious back pain.

Overall, this project sucks, its backbreaking and labor filled with all the sanding.

I'm lookin forward to the results.

Again, I hate sanding.

Tue May 01, 2012 6:17 am

oh I'm so upset. I put the primer on waay too thick and its not dry after 48 hours..

I primed the fiberglass basket the day after and went thinner... and that dried nearly overnight.

UGHHH!

Tue May 01, 2012 7:00 am

dubbified wrote: oh I'm so upset. I put the primer on waay too thick and its not dry after 48 hours..

I primed the fiberglass basket the day after and went thinner... and that dried nearly overnight.

UGHHH!
It will eventually cure.
Find something else to work on in the meantime.. but don't be tempted to lay any more paint til that primer is relatively resistant to the fingernail scratch test.

FWIW.. In some cases it has taken upwards of a month to get a decent cure when I've done projects like this in a boatyard setting (SF Bay Area, coastal humidity, cool temps 60ish F)
These paints like 80F. But that doesn't happen north of Lat 38 unless in the interior.

Patience.

Tue May 01, 2012 11:29 am

Thanks!

more pics,

As its sittin,

The dentist session, top getting its fillings..

I would suggest anyone taking this project on, go get the Multitool from harborfreight. It has really saved my ass on the sandding bit, especially when it came to leveling cured fiberglass resin. Matter of minutes with that and I'd sanded it flat vs the block and 60 grit barely touching it.

Then, I block sanded the entire surface, then used med grit harborfreight sanding foam blocks for all contouring, both sides..

So, I was checking the top out last night and will give it one more day, then go back and do the light sanding/leveling, tack cloth/blowdry, then get it with a couple lighter coats of the brightside.

Tonight I may be gettin on the next parts which are to get the frame going for the false ceiling updates. I'd like to use Aluminum, but as of late I'm giving serious thought to going with "Poplar" as its lighter comes in an 8 foot length is very strong, not to mention, cheaper!

The ideas that drive me toward fabricating a wooden frame, is I can staple or nail directly to it! definitely a bonus over aluminum idea. I'm thinking a simple wood sealer would do the trick for any moisture issues.

I have air nailers, brad nailers, and should be able to build something pretty solid which will fit up into the ceiling and offer the support for the insulation.

Well, I am hoping to curtail the paint issue soon. In the final stages of chassis prep, removing seals, degreasing jambs.. getting ready for the paint time. hopefully have that done by next weekend.. at the very latest.

Mon May 07, 2012 10:11 am

Well, another update.

Looks like I'm having to abandon the full body painjob cause we've got 3 weeks to get on our trip.. somethin has to go.

Back to the Interlux paint idea, which isnt so bad. I've got this paint tent setup.. may as well put it to use..

Its remarkable how close this grey is to the Gowesty acrylic tent color, or, atleast it looks close in the garage.. time will tell.

I feel my end goal will look like this:

Where I'm at with this project today:

I've sanded down the interlux primer on the interior ceiling (which I did put on way too thick) tack clothed it then blew off the surface dust.. then i coated in my first coat of brightside steel grey last night. Looks real sharp.

Tonight I'm going to sand this lightly, use a can of "clear/no pigment" SEM texture.. thinking some texture is going to be in order.. then a single recoat with interlux and dulling agent added in.

Mon May 14, 2012 10:43 am

Alright, another update.

Came out real nice. To keep the top from getting damaged, created a wood support which spans the rails of the mating surface where the tent screws into..

That's Interlux precote, sanded down, spot filled where needed, used a texture coating from SEM (clear), can and a half shot from 18-20 inches for higher build. Then I mixed up interlux and dulling agent and sprayed it with a harborfreight HPLV.

On to the top.

Somethin I've not seen anyone do, slightly stepping out on a ledge here, sanded, primed, sanded, spotfilled any last min deals, wiped down and then shot with Home depot Oil based texture.

The thought here, is the texture will be encapsulated in primer, restoring the original texture look. :)

Tonight I'm going to be hitting it again in precote primer, and then braking out the paint tommorrow night.

Tue May 15, 2012 11:25 am

Ok,

I rolled on a thinned version of the Precote Primer last night.

Dang, it Looks awesome.

Some feedback, The thinner/primer seemed to soften the spray on (oil based) texture upon multiple rollovers, overall I'm hoping the primer locks onto the texture OK.. and does not become structurally weak, otherwise I'm gunna sand it all off.

Given the 24 hour cure time, I'm going to try to "disturb/test" a small area and make a decision to move forward with the Painting phase.

I'm goin out on a limb with that because it does not appear anyone has used spray on household texture.. and the commercially available SEM texture or available at Wesco/Sherwin auto center was not cuttin it, it just wasnt chunky enough for me.

If all goes well, tonight I plan on rolling on the first of 3 layers of Brightside Steel grey, so I can hopefully get on to the tent install this weekend.

Pics comin of this next bit.

Thu May 17, 2012 7:06 am

Well, I tossed the basket up ontop of the van for a test fit and it looks pretty dang good.

Thumb nail pushes against the texture seem to be pretty resilient after the second coat of brightside.

So, I ran a third thinned coat over the top last night.

I have enough paint, flattening agent and brushing liquid to take on two more thinned coats. So far I've been using 4 inch foam rollers and disposable 6 inch paint trays.

My plan is to roll over a thinned coat with a little flattenning agent tonight, and then to hit it tommorrow with another thinned coat with more flatenning agent and then to drop the paint tent walls, seal the plastic and then turn on the shop heater, in attempt to speed curing of the top so i can get it on its back, and install the bars, maybe the tent.

My other project is assembling the freshly powdercoated bars and get those staged.

Pics comin.