TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu May 17, 2012 9:04 pm

Here are some picturess of nearly finished product, its still wet.

I took my 1/3 can left of grey and mixed in a good half can of dulling agent, a little brushing liquid and got one full roll on coat tonight.

I'm going to spray on the remaining to dull the finish tommorrow afternoon.

What a transformation, really.

Far cry from when I got it,

Sun May 20, 2012 7:17 am

Using this stuff only caused the paint to slough off.. and didnt do much for me.

I want it to be fresh lookin for my spring breakout.

Again, the motivation of this post isnt to build up or gain anyones approval.. its to find out how people did this process, and how it looks, if they would do something different if recoating again.[/quote]

I think the product you will find useful as used in marine applications:
303 High Tech Aerospace Protectant
http://www.303products.com/shop303/index.cfm/category/65/303-aerospace-protectant.cfm

Sun May 20, 2012 7:54 am

My experience with fibreglas is that the finish is gel coat as the most preferred finish.
What is gel coat: http://www.ehow.com/facts_5938647_gelcoat-paint_.html

If you want to gel coat over a paint job, you need to sand all the paint off too...

Here is a good article!

http://liambean.hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Paint-Fiberglass

To protect the pop top from harmful UV or tires or vinyl or plastic, I highly recommend this product sold in Canada and the USA

http://www.303products.com/shop303/index.cfm/category/65/303-aerospace-protectant.cfm

Also the 303 High Tech Fabric Guard product is awesome on the canvas for water proof/breathable treatment and UV protection!

Sun May 20, 2012 12:48 pm

I was on the fence with going with a gelcoat, but feel it would look better on a boat or a hot tub. I was really trying to recreate the texture and refresh the look on some form of a budget, but considering the full body paintjob was nixed, the next option for me was this roll on jobbie.

For the most part, it was an all roll on job. I didnt even sand between brightside coats, that stuff is hardcore, very tough finish,0 I cannot wait till it fully cures as I've got freshly powdercoated hardware to be installed. My problem is most likely going to be related to how to put the hinges back on the top, which washers, sealants are needed. If anyone has a idea on that, feel free to ping me!

The reason I chose the Interlux was due to its Marine application, UV rating and the paint typically withstands elements and mixed conditions. ..
..

Just got the labels amassed..

Gelcoat... I did get a fiberglass/gelcoated storage box though I literally just got done polishing and got the first coat of wax on before it started raining..

This Packasport 115 is beast at 7Ft 7In x 44 inch wide and goin up on three gutter mounted thule racks..

Plan is to affix the 5 foot Illudium Q-36 space modulator...

Darth Vader called, he wants his shuttle pod back.

Although maybe....

:lol:

Tue May 29, 2012 11:47 am

Has anyone tried using a spray on tintable bedliner like the Upol Raptor on the fiberglass top? Just a thought. I did this texture treatment to the lower part of the body ala Gowesty. stuff is killer.... seems like it would be a SNAP to do on the top. Hit the thing with 80 grit DA and spray.

Tue May 29, 2012 3:03 pm

Wow, great thread dubbified, I need to refinish my pop top too and your experiences are going to be great to learn from.

So it seems like you left the interior to just be a painted finish? My wife started peeling the interior fuzz off of our 89 Westy at one point because of mold, found out what a PITA it was and left a mess; so now I have to take the fuzz off.

Have you tried camping and breathing in the new pop top? does the interior top get all condensated and drippy? Does anyone have any further suggestions to finish a stripped interior with?

Thanks

Tue May 29, 2012 3:11 pm

Go Westy has a nice article about the topic of interior fuzz, mold and what they do. personally this is the way I would go if mine wasn't in such good shape.

http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=1364

Tue May 29, 2012 4:45 pm

Hi,

I had looked into Raptor colormatch, and some felt it faded over years.

We're trying to get the top and interior done, but we've been working on body issues..

We've been busy with expanding the interior fender with welded in angle iron so as to utilize inner fender spaces, fixing rusted rockers, replaced a fender.. Finally got the body sealed, need to finish cutting all my seams, and re-sealing with Napa seam sealer.. uggh.

I just pulled windows, and am going to shoot the rockers in Upol Raptor black tommorrow, and paint the windowframes in a black satin (window rust, cheap fix) So, just as soon as that is done, it gets a marine ply floor, and the top goes in.

My fingers hurt.

Pictures of progress soon.

Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:33 pm

whew!

I just got done painting the van, applying raptor to the rockers.

I am beat!

So, in looking forward to bolting the hinges on, and assembling the tent to the shell..

I'm left with some questions hopefully you guys can help me on.

When I go to affix the rear hinges to the fiberglass, I'm unsure in which order the nylon washers, and bolts go in.

Any suggestions, or, better yet, any pictures that may help?

Thanks,

Al

Sat Jun 09, 2012 6:04 pm

Al,

my memory is hazy, I do recall white nylon washers but I can't recall where they went. This pic doesn't really help does it?

btw, lube the hinges, makes a difference.

cheers

alistair

Tue Jun 12, 2012 3:49 pm

Thanks for the picture Alistair!

So the fiberglass goes right against the hinges, that helps, cause that means the bolts must have the washers under them.

Makes sense to have them somewhere, so the fiberglass does not get crushed.

I stopped by the dealer and also picked up a Etka print of the top, as I also needed to pickup some new rubber washers, cause I think I lost a couple..

Details details. Should have the top on in a day or two, "tops"

heh.

Al

Mon Jun 18, 2012 10:16 pm

Ok, tonight I've finally got some broadband access and some time, sanity to update these threads..

Its been full speed, 8 hours a day, and we're goin all out for the next week and hopefully it should be something we can take off in, embarking on our cross country trip.
:)

So, here is my project bench, with the fiberglass top, the 3x thule crossbars, and 78" bars front to back cause the Packasport only had two mounting chanels moulded into the box, it sat really oddly.

I decided on the Packasport 115 as it was large at 30sq ft of storage, its locking fiberglass, far superior to Thule/Yakima ABS boxes)

I also got the gowesty hydraulic struts, although, I may buy the other second auxillary set.. we'll see... hopefully not.

I just wanna get the interior done..

The plan is to mount the Kyocera 140 to the top of the packasport, and create an air dam, wing to break the wind for the solar panel, I dont want it to catch wind.

Just went to paint last week, tossed on the finished front fiberglass box, and am workin on the Big brake/urethane, and sways...

Here she is just chillin tonight in the garage..

This project component will take backseat till later in the week.

Thanks for lookin!

Al

Thu Jul 05, 2012 1:42 pm

dubbified wrote:

Al

Wowzer, that paint looks sweet! Can you post some more photos of the body paint, please? Maybe a paint code?

-CJ

Thu Jul 05, 2012 9:00 pm

Hey,

I used Sherwin williams middle of the road brand singlestage LC3Y

All said and done, 97$ and the governor..

I shoulda snagged a second quart.

All said and done, it was a good learning project, the van gets multiple comments daily, and its really come a long way.

I'm glad to have gotten in three nights IN the van so far, but largely we're committed to getting out of project mode by the 10th.. then, onward to our cross country excursion..

Thanks!

Al

Mon Jul 09, 2012 10:11 pm

Well, here is our victory dance, we're finally DONE with the top restoration, the rest of our next week (about 7 days is finalizing our bumper/side body protection, the interior, and electronics. The canvas will be installed later, probably when I'm camping.. doesnt really take a garage to do it.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i216/Dubbified/IMAG0232.jpg?t=1341896763

Unsure why Thesamba forum wont convert this to an image..

Tue Jul 10, 2012 6:05 am

That looks great!

Tue Jul 10, 2012 6:16 am

Get a shot with the sun on it! That color looks fantastic! I went looking back and amazed how close the messages are in time.

Tue Jul 10, 2012 6:57 am

looking pretty darn nice Al!

alistair

Tue Jul 10, 2012 7:07 am

Stoked it worked out for you.. looks great.

What would you have done differently next tme?
Steps to skip? Steps to take more time on?
Materials you'd try instead.. etc?

Thanks!

Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:31 am

j_dirge wrote: Stoked it worked out for you.. looks great.

What would you have done differently next tme?
Steps to skip? Steps to take more time on?
Materials you'd try instead.. etc?

Thanks!

Paint it in a AUTO booth vs a garage, with Auto paint.

Pay someone

A shotgun.

Just kidding, it came out like I wanted, although the texture is a bit weak, it does cave a bit if you hit it, although there arent too many brushes, or smacks on it, just wished there was a better LARGE texture device which shot a firmer substance.

I do have a pair of Gowesty shox to add, but I think I need to get the second, popping the top was a bit tough for me, so far the Thules are about 40lbs, the Packasport and solar getup adds another 130 easy.. So, without gear, I think I need the second shox..

On our test camping run last weekend, in full Eastern WA sun the top is way cooler than the OEM color. I think if I were to change anything, if I shot it in Auto grade, I'd wrap the color up, and go either white or Silver!

Thanks for the looks and compliments!