| lionspride52 |
Wed Mar 14, 2012 5:29 pm |
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| Ok guys, so I have been screwing around with this all day. Here is what happened. Took off the other day and everything was running fine, about 5 minutes down the road when I pushed my clutch in it would not dissengage. I adjusted the clutch this morning and she seemed to be doing a bit better, took her for a spin and she was ok, the shifting was still a little rough but it was at least disengaging. So I went to do some more adjusting and ended up screwing it up somehow. Now when I push the clutch in I get this sound... http://youtu.be/bjT1c0G80wo If you can't hear it very well its a high pitch squeel, the clutch is now very loose. I'm really hoping its not the throwout bearing, as I just replaced it last year so unless I screwed something up royally (not out of the question) I would think it would be something else. Also I can't tighten the wingnut on the cable any more it is as tight as it will go. If you have any info for me I would really appreciate it! Thanks in advance. |
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| lionspride52 |
Fri Mar 16, 2012 11:03 am |
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| Nobody has anything for me huh? |
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| busdaddy |
Fri Mar 16, 2012 11:41 am |
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| If it squeals when you push the clutch the throwout bearing is bad, there's nothing else that can make a squeal. Try a new clutch cable if you like but the reality is the engine's gotta come out. |
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| lionspride52 |
Fri Mar 16, 2012 11:47 am |
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| Thanks busdaddy, I guess it's coming out then. |
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| SGKent |
Fri Mar 16, 2012 12:01 pm |
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| can be the pilot bearing too. The fact it wouldn't disengage makes me wonder if the lining tore loose or the pilot bearing seized. Might be the TO as BusDaddy suggested. |
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| marchanel |
Fri Mar 16, 2012 11:05 pm |
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| Are you sure that the clutch is adjusted correctly? On my bus I can not adjust the clutch by just reaching up there and turning the wing nut, it's too hard to turn. It's in a place where it's hard to get any leverage. There is a tool available but I don't have one. What I do is put a big pair of vise grips on the clutch shaft and turn it which disengages the clutch and then the wing nut is easy to spin. Turning the wing nut hand tight does not get the clutch adjusted on mine. |
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| AB westy nut |
Fri Mar 16, 2012 11:53 pm |
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| That brings up an interesting point: does anyone put anti-seize on the clutch cable adjustment threads? |
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| udidwht |
Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:08 am |
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AB westy nut wrote: That brings up an interesting point: does anyone put anti-seize on the clutch cable adjustment threads?
No, but be sure and use vise grips to hold the cable still while adjusting it. Otherwise you'll unwind the cable which will lead to an early break in the bowden tube. |
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| Vince Waldon |
Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:44 am |
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AB westy nut wrote: does anyone put anti-seize on the clutch cable adjustment threads?
Absolutely. :) |
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| Heliconman |
Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:06 am |
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lionspride52 wrote: Nobody has anything for me huh?
Mine made the exact same noise when my newly replaced throw out bearing failed. |
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| Stuartzickefoose |
Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:37 pm |
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udidwht wrote: AB westy nut wrote: That brings up an interesting point: does anyone put anti-seize on the clutch cable adjustment threads?
No, but be sure and use vise grips to hold the cable still while adjusting it. Otherwise you'll unwind the cable which will lead to an early break in the bowden tube.
](*,) #-o
thats what happened....:(
my TO bearing AND my clutch cable are broke... |
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| SGKent |
Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:55 pm |
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Stuartzickefoose wrote: udidwht wrote: AB westy nut wrote: That brings up an interesting point: does anyone put anti-seize on the clutch cable adjustment threads?
No, but be sure and use vise grips to hold the cable still while adjusting it. Otherwise you'll unwind the cable which will lead to an early break in the bowden tube.
](*,) #-o
thats what happened....:(
my TO bearing AND my clutch cable are broke...
If the cable hung then the TO ran 100% of the time and that is what did it in. |
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| Stuartzickefoose |
Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:57 pm |
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SGKent wrote: Stuartzickefoose wrote: udidwht wrote: AB westy nut wrote: That brings up an interesting point: does anyone put anti-seize on the clutch cable adjustment threads?
No, but be sure and use vise grips to hold the cable still while adjusting it. Otherwise you'll unwind the cable which will lead to an early break in the bowden tube.
](*,) #-o
thats what happened....:(
my TO bearing AND my clutch cable are broke...
If the cable hung then the TO ran 100% of the time and that is what did it in.
it was on the TO all the time for the first 2 months (mostly sitting) and i adjusted it soon after the noise started (to late...:() and i think my adjusting just turned the cable most of the time... :evil: |
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| kreemoweet |
Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:40 pm |
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If turning the adjustment nut makes the cable unwind/wind to any significant degree, that's a sure
sign the threads on nut and cable are filthy and/or in need of lubrication, or possibly the threads
are mashed up. I've always been able to turn that nut with one hand, and cable does not twist. |
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| Stuartzickefoose |
Sat Mar 17, 2012 3:27 pm |
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kreemoweet wrote: If turning the adjustment nut makes the cable unwind/wind to any significant degree, that's a sure
sign the threads on nut and cable are filthy and/or in need of lubrication, or possibly the threads
are mashed up. I've always been able to turn that nut with one hand, and cable does not twist.
ya, mine twisted super slow, think like honey or something, but it always turned back to its rightful place...or so i thought....:( |
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| lionspride52 |
Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:43 am |
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| Took the engine out yesterday, it was indeed the throw out bearing. Well actually it was the clutch lever. I just replaced it last summer and it is just grinded away and completely. I'll post a picture later, but it seems weird that it would happen. At least its a cheap fix. Also going to replace the fuel line and spark plugs and all that fun stuff while I got it out. Thanks for the help guys. |
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| Stuartzickefoose |
Thu Mar 22, 2012 9:40 am |
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lionspride52 wrote: Took the engine out yesterday, it was indeed the throw out bearing. Well actually it was the clutch lever. I just replaced it last summer and it is just grinded away and completely. I'll post a picture later, but it seems weird that it would happen. At least its a cheap fix. Also going to replace the fuel line and spark plugs and all that fun stuff while I got it out. Thanks for the help guys.
go get new cables and clutch flex tube while the engine is out, super quick replacement, and maybe like 30 bucks for all of it. insurance ;) |
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| CBRUNO |
Fri Mar 23, 2012 6:37 am |
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| You should pull and inspect the clutch cable and tube as well, make sure to leave some free play between the release bearing and pressure plate when you adjust the clutch, your clutch should last many year's without any trouble. |
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| lionspride52 |
Fri Mar 23, 2012 4:55 pm |
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| Well the good news is I am getting really fast at taking the engine in and out, only took me an hour this time... Got the engine back in and running yesterday but the clutch still didn't work. The pressure plate is totaled so will be ordering the parts to replace the clutch next week. Wish me luck! |
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| Stuartzickefoose |
Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:15 pm |
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lionspride52 wrote: Well the good news is I am getting really fast at taking the engine in and out, only took me an hour this time... Got the engine back in and running yesterday but the clutch still didn't work. The pressure plate is totaled so will be ordering the parts to replace the clutch next week. Wish me luck!
a busdepot one worked great for me...they have a full kit, just get your flywheel resurfaced/sand it down lightly... |
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