TheSamba.com :: View topic - 2 running board bolts sheared off. How to fix?

Thu Mar 15, 2012 12:19 am

So I was replacing some Old beat up
Running boards and after I un bolted it off the fenders I loosened the bolts along heater channel and took the running board off and started unscrewing all 4 bolts down the heater channel to replace them too and 2 of the heads sheared right off so the bolt is still in the hole Flush. Is there a way to get it out of there still? When I Put the new ones on I know I'm gonna need those
Bolts replaced. Ugh. I don't want To just put a couple sheet metal screws in next to the propper place. Any advice is much appreciated.

Thu Mar 15, 2012 1:55 am

Take your time brotha.. I had the same thing happen to me, while I was checking all my threaded holes.. Your gonna have to go to the hardware store and make a few inexpensive purchases.. You can buy these individually:

Tapered/Flat Bottom Tap
Center Punch (Small)
Extractor/Easy Out
Left Hand Cobalt Drill Bit
WD-40
Patience..

Im here in Kuwait right now, I dont have all the numbers and sizes of threads & drill bits etc. off hand.. but let me see if I can find some sizes that will help.. Im sure the bolt size for the running boards are like M6X20 or M6X15..
The Extraction
1) What you want to do first is spray them down with WD-40.. Dont be in a rush to knock this out in 10 minutes.. Spray the shit out of them.. lay down a towel so you dont make a mess.. or a small pie pan to capture the excess drip..
2) Once you feel comfortable you have soaked them enough, grab your center punch and try to hit that sheered bolt right smack dab in the middle.
3) This will give you a guideline to start to use the smallest bit first.. and drill directly into the center.. Use your left hand cobalt drill bits.. You might just get lucky and it will come out while drilling through it. Just remember to keep level and stay center..
4) Once you have drilled out enough of the damaged hardware to slide one of your choice of extractors in there (Easy Out My Favorite).. Enough to get a good bite.. Then spray once again with some WD-40.. Gently tap the easyout in the hole drilled out.. and begin to turn counter clock wise.. Hopefully it will grasp and begin to extract. NOTE: If you start to get stuck and it dont turn anymore.. STOP.. Back out and re-group..
5) If this doesnt work.. Then go to your next drill bit size and easy out and re-peat step 4.
6) If worse case scenario.. Shit just wants to be apart of the heater channel.. Then continue to drill out until the bolt wears itself out or thin.. Then use your Threaded Tap and Re-Tap the hole to your hardware size.. In all brotha.. its gonna take some time and patience.. but soak, soak and the bits and pieces of tools you purchase.. you will have them on hand, if it comes up again in another area.. The hardware is common..

Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:27 am

Good tips Ray (although I'd use PB Blaster soak first)....

However, I would not do it that way, I would simply use my MIG welder. Maybe that is not an option for poopdevil (what a name!), but I have NEVER failed with it. See the "Tool Techniques" article at my site thebugshop.org for pics and details. I have done this with everything from M12 to M2.5 (yes, no kidding).

I'm about 76-0 so far...

Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:47 am

johnshenry wrote: Good tips Ray (although I'd use PB Blaster soak first)....

However, I would not do it that way, I would simply use my MIG welder. Maybe that is not an option for poopdevil (what a name!), but I have NEVER failed with it. See the "Tool Techniques" article at my site thebugshop.org for pics and details. I have done this with everything from M12 to M2.5 (yes, no kidding).

I'm about 76-0 so far...

Your the man JohnsHenry.. I wish I had me a little welder at the house for jobs like that.. Your right.. 100% easier.. Tac and remove.. I have to use more primitive "Old Skool" methods.. :cry: Im gonna be placing an order tomorrow (Friday) for my fuel valve rebuild kit.. I want to replace as many internals as you have available on your site.. I seen the rubber seal kit, and the copper mesh screens.. I have it apart at home, just need to put it back together once I get your replacement stuff ordered.. Good info with the weld stuff though.. much quicker..

Thu Mar 15, 2012 9:43 am

I actually do have a mig welder. So tack the head back on the bolt and then try to remove it after pblaster? I'm not too comfortable with my welder but could try. I do like the slow and steady drill out method also. I think I'll try tacking it in and if it doesn't work I'll drill it out method ray suggested ! Thanks for the advise guys. I'll post my results. And yes I know PoopDevil is a rediculous name. Given to me in my art school days haha. It stuck.

Thu Mar 15, 2012 9:46 am

johnshenry wrote: Good tips Ray (although I'd use PB Blaster soak first)....

However, I would not do it that way, I would simply use my MIG welder. Maybe that is not an option for poopdevil (what a name!), but I have NEVER failed with it. See the "Tool Techniques" article at my site thebugshop.org for pics and details. I have done this with everything from M12 to M2.5 (yes, no kidding).

I'm about 76-0 so far...
I have done the same as johnshenry. I had JUST bought my Miller MIG welder and I used it for just that same thing. When you weld the nut to the broken bolt, you also get some heat soak into the rusted bolt or stud. This greatly improves the odds of removing it.

Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:46 am

poopdevil wrote: I actually do have a mig welder. So tack the head back on the bolt and then try to remove it after pblaster? I'm not too comfortable with my welder but could try. I do like the slow and steady drill out method also. I think I'll try tacking it in and if it doesn't work I'll drill it out method ray suggested ! Thanks for the advise guys. I'll post my results. And yes I know PoopDevil is a rediculous name. Given to me in my art school days haha. It stuck.

No, you don't tack the head back on. See the article and pics at my site. For a running board M6, I would just build a blob on the snapped off shank, grab it tight with vice grips, spray PB blaster and wiggle it out (back and forth, back and forth, read the article, this is very important).

Grind some flat sides on the blob if the vice grips slip.

Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:52 am

i used something similar to this set http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht123-screw-extractor-wrench-set when i was restoring a short shock beam as there was one of the body mount bolts snapped off be careful though as you need to drill a hole in the center of the broken bolt and soak it with allot of penetrating oil

Thu Mar 15, 2012 5:10 pm

I have 7 of the 'fro-pas' holes to address on my project...

3 in the heater channels....
4 in assorted fender mounts....

Yay!... more drama labor... *SIGH*