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  View original topic: What would you do with these wheel house wrinkles?
offshores Thu Mar 15, 2012 10:25 am

My 65 Bug is about to start getting some body work and I want some advice please. I will be doing the work and am a beginner. I'm replacing the apron and the bottom of the spare tire well and was wondering from you experienced folks what I should do with the wheel house area? I will definitely try to hammer it out first before replacing it unless you think it's too far gone. I was also wondering if heating up the wrinkled area would be beneficial while using a hammer and dolly. My thought is making it hot (softer) makes it easier to hammer???
Here are some pics:
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DSC_8698 by offshores, on Flickr
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DSC_8699 by offshores, on Flickr
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DSC_8683 by offshores, on Flickr
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DSC_8675 by offshores, on Flickr[/img]

AlteWagen Thu Mar 15, 2012 12:23 pm

I would apply tension at the bumper bracket and pull towards the direction of impact. While under tension do your hammer and dolly work. It will take some time but you will be surprised how much easier the hammer work is when the panel is under tension.

I use a piece of thick steel plate that wil fit into the bumper bracket holes in the apron and will bolt up to the body mount. After a few blows of the hammer I apply more tension.

For the stretched metal I use a shrinking disk and apply water to quench the panel.

offshores Thu Mar 15, 2012 2:26 pm

Okay, that makes sense. I think I get the idea of applying the tension, but may need a little more help visualizing it. If I understand correctly, I'm to put something in the section where the bumper brackets are attached and then could I use a ratchet style tie down attached to the hitch of my truck and start tightening/pulling? How much pressure would I need to apply? Thanks for the tip as well. Would heat help the process at all?

AlteWagen Thu Mar 15, 2012 2:47 pm

I use a come a long anchored to a tree, block the tires so that the vehicle wont move then start pulling.



I remove one of the hooks ( one on the left )and attach the modified bracket directly to the winch.


If you heat it up you may just tear the metal. I slowly pull, hammer, pull, hammer, etc. If you go too fast you will be sorry.

offshores Thu Mar 15, 2012 2:54 pm

Sounds good. I don't have a come along, but I will try a ratchet strap I have and go from there. Thanks again for the info.

AlteWagen Thu Mar 15, 2012 3:35 pm

dont think the ratchet strap will have enough pull. Just spend the $12 at harbor freight and get it done.

AirDirect Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:58 pm

Here is the approach we took and it worked very well. As pointed out previously, the best way is to put the panel under tension and then work the wrinkles out with hammer and dolly. You will need to pull the panel beyond where you ultimately want it to allow for spring back.




Matt K. Wed Apr 18, 2012 1:00 pm

It looks like it took a good hit at one time......it takes a fair ammount of pull to get the wrinkles out....also watch how the hood fits when you are moving that sheet metal around as that can effect how the hood sits and shuts. You can bolt up the fenders using the bolt holes at the rear of the fender..then leave the front ones out and use the straight fender as a guide to pull the aprons until the bolt holes line up.

offshores Wed Apr 18, 2012 1:23 pm

Matt K. wrote: It looks like it took a good hit at one time......it takes a fair ammount of pull to get the wrinkles out....also watch how the hood fits when you are moving that sheet metal around as that can effect how the hood sits and shuts. You can bolt up the fenders using the bolt holes at the rear of the fender..then leave the front ones out and use the straight fender as a guide to pull the aprons until the bolt holes line up.

What would you charge to fix it for me??? :D The hood closes and lines up real good just the way it is now.

Thanks guys for the pics and info.

Matt K. Thu Apr 19, 2012 12:09 pm

offshores wrote: Matt K. wrote: It looks like it took a good hit at one time......it takes a fair ammount of pull to get the wrinkles out....also watch how the hood fits when you are moving that sheet metal around as that can effect how the hood sits and shuts. You can bolt up the fenders using the bolt holes at the rear of the fender..then leave the front ones out and use the straight fender as a guide to pull the aprons until the bolt holes line up.

What would you charge to fix it for me??? :D The hood closes and lines up real good just the way it is now.

Thanks guys for the pics and info.
If you need it fixed.....PM me.

H82WRK Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:15 am

Your Beetle and mine share the exact same damage!



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