TheSamba.com :: View topic

Mon Mar 26, 2012 5:12 pm

JSMskater wrote:

Rose and Ryan -- cutting out and dying randomly is the relays, wiring, or pump. usually the hardware itself it ok. if its happening only at high RPM I would begin suspecting the pump and the wiring to the injectors/trigger contacts first, and as always the grounds.

I've also seen this with ECU's that have an internal ground going bad -- but very rare.
There was one wire on the fuel pump relay under the dash that used to wiggle itself off every now and then, could have been that making a bad connection. I ran a bay window fuel pump that i bought brand new but sold the pump for some extra money when i switched to carbs. Im returning to the three hose pump to try to keep the mechanics as origional as possible, provided jim can get my early style pump up to snuff. I also want to return to a generator as im not sure my alternator is providing the volts i need to properly run my injection....my headlights would bog my engine down almost 200 rpm :? . I also hacked my fan housing to fit the alternator so it is no longer sealed. My fan housing also has a long hole in it on the bottom side above the exhaust, i dont know how that got there but that could possibly be affecting cooling too.

Sun Apr 01, 2012 10:34 am

I got the new intake runner spacers yesterday, i hope they are right.

Started to do a little tear down as i want to do a good cleaning and degreasing.

This is that hole in the fan housing i mentioned earlier, is this a concern? Fix/replace?

I still need to order a few new parts before things start going back together, but that just gives me time to do cleaning. I still need the intake runner to intake air distibutor stubby hoses, and new injector o rings, an injector holder and a couple other odds and ends that ill probably order form cip1.
I also want to replace the cluch assembly while i have the engine out. Is the 200mm clutch correct for a '69?
Also im still contemplating my alternator/generator situation. The reason i have an alternator now is because my generator light came on one day and the car wouldnt crank the next day. It was not gradual, it just quite working all at once. I replaced the generator brushes but that did nothing. Is it common for generators to just die like that or could it have been a voltage regulator thing? If it was actually the voltage regulator i would have never known becasue the alternator has a built in voltage regulator so i would have not known if the stock vr wasnt working any more.

Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:49 am

No good reason not to paint all your tins/runners etc gray & black while you have them ALL disassembled.

Sun May 20, 2012 1:45 pm

I got my pump and distributor back last week, along with genuine bosche cap, rotor, and condensor, new rubber pump mounts and the vent hose kit and I just ordered new injector seals, and intake runner gaskets. Maybe sometime in the next week or two when all the parts are here and i get the motivation to get to work i can start putting things back together.

Sat May 26, 2012 3:21 pm

So i got some motivation and have been working on the fasty the last couple of days. I got the tin and exhasut painted, its not show quality but definitly looks better than it did.

I used rustoleum hammered finished paint, really help hide all the imperfections on the tin and intake runners. I used high temp paint for the exhaust but did not take any pictures.

I decided to pressure wash the engine bay too. Cleaned up descently.
Before.

After.

I want to replace all the fuel lines too. Do the rubber lines run the full length of the car or do they turn to metal lines where they meet the body? I ready 20' of 5/16'' line is required, is this accurate? Also i need a fuel pump bracket, anyone have an extra one laying around?

Sat May 26, 2012 6:17 pm

I bought 20' of line and 20 clamps and had 6" of hose left. The hose goes from tank to filter to pump to body(steel line) to hose to engine to body to hose that "Y"s then pump and tank. I have parts of the pump bracket but not the 2 clamps to go with it just the plate

Tue May 29, 2012 7:18 pm

I got the fuel pump in and all the fuel lines under the tank replaced with FI clamps. I also started to put the harness and ecu back in, but there are a couple of wires i am unsure of.
Are wires 24 and 16 (red arrows) supposed to be hooked to the cut wires (green arrows) via a t2 connector?

And is this cut wire supposed to go to wire 19 via a t1 connector?

If all goes well i will hopefully be putting the engine back in this weekend and trying to get her to run! :D

Tue May 29, 2012 8:10 pm

the red and green arrows connect on mine, those connections are one of few i am sure of. Good luck! Still trying to get my sons going down to a couple wires/possible added parts from a different year.

Tue May 29, 2012 8:42 pm

RR

Couple things. In your stack of tins I didn't see any moustache tins. There are two per side that surround the intake rails where they mount to the head. On the same note, hope you fixed that gash in your fan housing. The whole cooling system needs to be intact.

Good luck

RMS

Wed May 30, 2012 4:56 pm

COFBack wrote: RR

Couple things. In your stack of tins I didn't see any moustache tins. There are two per side that surround the intake rails where they mount to the head. On the same note, hope you fixed that gash in your fan housing. The whole cooling system needs to be intact.

Good luck

RMS I pretty much fixed it, i bent the broken gash back over to cover the hole it was making, not 100% but definitly better. I have the mustache tins, just not in the pics.

Wed May 30, 2012 5:47 pm

Does anyone have a list of lengths and sizes for the vacuum lines? I have none :(
Thanks!

Thu May 31, 2012 8:01 am

I'll take some measurements tonight and post on the vacuum lines.

Thu May 31, 2012 10:30 am

RTV is Room Temperature Vulcanizing sealer.

I may get flogged for this... RTV has it's place and uses and I have never had any issue with using it on my air cooled or water cooled engines. Just remember that it does have to sit oil free for 6 hrs minimum, too much is a bad thing and gas will eat it quickly.

Thu May 31, 2012 11:20 am

commence the flogging I say!!

:lol:

personally, I HATE. H. A. T. E. that stuff -- sure it seals up leaks, but damn if its a royal sticky gooey pain in the a$$ to get off/out when you replace the hose... which is what should be done if they're leaking. not adding MORE crap to fail, clog the air passages, go through the motor, etc.

replace the hose with the right diameters. come on. the hoses aren't expensive. every oreilly's napa kragen pepboys autozone flap carries hoses in various sizes. if they dont fit really tight use a hose clamp!

leave the glues for macaroni cards and glitter valentines.

not to mention from an engineering perspective my mental alarm bells start ringing when a 4 dollar bottle of mystery goo is supposed to be both "room temperature" sealant and ALSO "high temp"

sorry. but my experience says its high temp that works/sets at room, or its room temp and high temps just turn it into a mess of gooey sap or brittle shards.

Thu May 31, 2012 11:59 am

vdubin wrote: RTV is Room Temperature Vulcanizing sealer.

I may get flogged for this... RTV has it's place and uses and I have never had any issue with using it on my air cooled or water cooled engines. Just remember that it does have to sit oil free for 6 hrs minimum, too much is a bad thing and gas will eat it quickly.

No.

Thu May 31, 2012 4:21 pm

Some vacuum hose measurements

AAR to Breather ~ 16 inches
Crankcase Vent to Breather ~11 inches
Plenum to AAR ~ 10 inches
Plenum to MAP ~ 24 inches
Breather to Cannister ~ 30 inches
Cannister to Elbow ~ 35 inches

For all of the above 5/16th ID vacuum hose should work

Vacuum Advace to Plenum ~ 10 inches of 3mm ID vacuum hose

For the fuel lines check my thread around page 8 or 9. I gave a bunch of measurements.

good luck
RMS

Sat Jun 02, 2012 9:32 am

So i got the engine back in last night so its down to just hooking everything up basically. How does the cylinder head temp sensor hook up? No wire in the harness comes close to reaching it. Its a male spade connector and there are no female connectors on the harness to plug into it. Also where do the injector grounds go? And im hearing the pump prime but im getting no fuel to the engine compartment, but im hearing lots of bubbles in the tank, im guessing i rooted my fuel lines wrong :? . So close yet so far away, i really want to turn that key.

Sat Jun 02, 2012 11:41 am

Tow dolly it to Nate M. in Annacortes and have him get it running. :D

Sat Jun 02, 2012 11:45 am

Nah, i can do this myself with some help from here. I am really in no hurry at all on this project.

Sat Jun 02, 2012 1:05 pm

The plastic connector next to the coil is where Cyl Head Temp Sensor. Should be a wire next to where your trigger points connector comes out of the loom.

Here's one of my pump installed

and one of the pump on my famous teal towel