| supaninja |
Sun Jun 10, 2012 5:57 pm |
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| There is not much to the start-up/warmup on a djet, most of it is handled by the AAR. I guess all those years of running IDF's and the years of riding a carb'd bike with a mechanical choke has lowered my expectations for warm ups, I just give it a little gas and let her warm up for about half a minute. |
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| Bobnotch |
Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:03 pm |
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RyanRodman wrote: supaninja wrote: Good news, another FI success story!
I wouldnt consider it a complete success yet. I still need to figure out the starting/warm up problems, which are part of the reason i switched to carbs origionally :roll:
You probably need to pull the AAR off, and send it to Jim Adney for rebuilding. He does those too (the mechanical version). Then you could reset your idle speed correctly, and not have the warm up issue. :wink: |
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| RyanRodman |
Sun Jun 10, 2012 11:12 pm |
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Bobnotch wrote:
You probably need to pull the AAR off, and send it to Jim Adney for rebuilding. He does those too (the mechanical version). Then you could reset your idle speed correctly, and not have the warm up issue. :wink:
Not a bad idea, ill send him an email and explain my issue and see if he thinks the AAR is the culprit. |
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| RyanRodman |
Mon Jun 11, 2012 6:41 pm |
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| Jim thought that the AAR was sticking so i pulled it out and checked it and it was a tad. I pulled it completely apart and clean it with carb cleaner and it is no longer sticking, the spring rotates perfectly smooth without catching anywhere. I put it back in but it really made no difference :? |
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| KTPhil |
Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:06 pm |
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RyanRodman wrote: Jim thought that the AAR was sticking so i pulled it out and checked it and it was a tad. I pulled it completely apart and clean it with carb cleaner and it is no longer sticking, the spring rotates perfectly smooth without catching anywhere. I put it back in but it really made no difference :?
Did you adjust it? |
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| RyanRodman |
Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:21 pm |
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KTPhil wrote: RyanRodman wrote: Jim thought that the AAR was sticking so i pulled it out and checked it and it was a tad. I pulled it completely apart and clean it with carb cleaner and it is no longer sticking, the spring rotates perfectly smooth without catching anywhere. I put it back in but it really made no difference :?
Did you adjust it?
Adjusting it only seems to change how it idles at the initial few seconds of start up, regardless if its adjusted to the "+" or "-" the idle still continues to increase and increase then flucuate before settling down. |
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| KTPhil |
Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:43 am |
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The bi-metal spring can fatigue/age and have a narrower/slower operating behavior. It sounds like you have it adjusted a little too far open, so as soon as it warms up a little it's letting in too much air and causing your idle to be too high. I set mine a little on the low/slow side to avoid this, and put up with a somewhat low/uneven cold idle.
Does it go REAL high (and hit the fuel cutout rpm) or does it just surge a little? |
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| RyanRodman |
Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:06 pm |
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KTPhil wrote: The bi-metal spring can fatigue/age and have a narrower/slower operating behavior. It sounds like you have it adjusted a little too far open, so as soon as it warms up a little it's letting in too much air and causing your idle to be too high. I set mine a little on the low/slow side to avoid this, and put up with a somewhat low/uneven cold idle.
Does it go REAL high (and hit the fuel cutout rpm) or does it just surge a little?
It gets really high and hits the fuel cut out rpm... |
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| KTPhil |
Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:26 pm |
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RyanRodman wrote: KTPhil wrote: The bi-metal spring can fatigue/age and have a narrower/slower operating behavior. It sounds like you have it adjusted a little too far open, so as soon as it warms up a little it's letting in too much air and causing your idle to be too high. I set mine a little on the low/slow side to avoid this, and put up with a somewhat low/uneven cold idle.
Does it go REAL high (and hit the fuel cutout rpm) or does it just surge a little?
It gets really high and hits the fuel cut out rpm...
It has to be adjusted to be more closed then.
It's also possible you also have an air leak somewhere, so that the AAR bypass air isn't as large a proportion of the intake air, lessening its effectiveness when cold. |
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