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  View original topic: EGR Valve/Filter Required in NJ? Page: Previous  1, 2
delliott101 Tue Apr 03, 2012 1:05 pm

Oh, looking at the picture, you could probably just replace the muffler with a stock one for that year or just (what I would do is) just get rid of it.

slione Tue Apr 03, 2012 3:21 pm

delliott101 wrote: The Overdrive heated too much on the trip out there as we forgot to turn it off while towing the Bug with the tow bar... on the return trip on the following Sunday, the transmission conked out in Brewster Kansas...

Ouch!! :shock:

old DKP driver Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:46 pm

Lets start with CO since your car is a Gross polluter

CO starts with excessive carbon build up usually from short
drives.and, increases HC's and Nox.
Oil contaminated-Change Hot,Vacuum leaks,Air filter.Carb adjustment

HC's Plugs,Wires,cap&rotor,Timing advanced to far,Vacuum leaks
Lean fuel mixture.

NOX=EGR,Lean fuel mix.

Some try and use "seafoam for the carbon buildup and readjust
vales,timing and carb settings to see if all this will get the car to pass.
I Don't know what shape your engine is in and you may want to find some local help with someone that can do a Pre-test after you have tried this method.

Go_Bug_n Tue Jun 26, 2012 11:15 am

Just my two cents. If your engine is in correct tune, I'd keep the EGR.

By doing what it does, it reduces combustion temps which will reduce cylinder head temps. That will help extend the life of your valves. If everything on your engine is right, you'll barely notice the very slight part throttle power loss from the EGR.

In my case, I have a perfectly running 1976 fuel injected Beetle. When I disconnected my EGR, I could hardly tell the difference so, I hooked it back up. Yes, the EGR valve works, the port is not plugged with carbon, and the EGR filter is recent (paint is still on it).



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