TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sun Apr 01, 2012 4:37 pm

Hey guys, I noticed fluid running out of my left rear wheel and at first I thought it was brake fluid but I think it's tranny oil - so I'm assuming my axle seal is shot, is this the seal kit I want:
http://www.bughaus.com/Axle_Seal_Kit_-_311598051A.htm

Also, what the heck can I do with the old brake shoes? They were pretty wet... can they be cleaned up or relined... or is it time for new shoes (on both sides)?

Sun Apr 01, 2012 4:39 pm

John Muir recommended soaking the shoes in Coleman fuel and lighting them to burn off the oil. I'd just get new shoes.

Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:50 pm

If they are soaked I'd probably get shoes or get them relined.

I have cleaned up minor wetness with brake cleaner in the past.

Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:31 pm

thanks KTPhil and everett. i'll get a new set of shoes along with the seal kit.

i know i should change the shoes on both sides, but should i replace the seals on both sides as well? or stick with the old "if it aint broke don't fix it" bit and only replace the leaky one? i guess i'm just not sure how often those things to go bad.

Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:11 pm

drivingpenguin wrote: Hey guys, I noticed fluid running out of my left rear wheel and at first I thought it was brake fluid but I think it's tranny oil - so I'm assuming my axle seal is shot, is this the seal kit I want:
http://www.bughaus.com/Axle_Seal_Kit_-_311598051A.htm

Also, what the heck can I do with the old brake shoes? They were pretty wet... can they be cleaned up or relined... or is it time for new shoes (on both sides)?

Also check the axle nut on that side for tightness. :shock:

Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:15 pm

drivingpenguin wrote: thanks KTPhil and everett. i'll get a new set of shoes along with the seal kit.

i know i should change the shoes on both sides, but should i replace the seals on both sides as well? or stick with the old "if it aint broke don't fix it" bit and only replace the leaky one? i guess i'm just not sure how often those things to go bad.

The axle seal kit is cheap. Do yourself a favor and replace both sides or risk soaking your new brake shoes with gear oil again and doing the same repair a second time.

Mon Apr 02, 2012 10:01 am

Hmmm, interesting point Bob... The axle nut was nowhere near as tight as it should have been. It came right off without using my long breaker bar. It had a pin through the castle nut, but shame on me for not checking its torque when I got the car. I'm assuming then that the high axel nut torque helps wither seal?

Sat Dec 27, 2014 10:15 pm

Curious of the same, does the axle nut play a role in the axle seal? I replaced my seals let it sit for three days without the drum and found one drop on the ground that came out the back hole...put the drum on and hand tightened the axle nut and no additional drops, been three more days. Was it residual oil from the process or does the axle nut assist in the seal?

Thanks!

Wed Dec 31, 2014 5:39 am

It seems to me that tightness of the castle nut will play a part in how long a seal will last. Those little elves in the Black Forest knew what they were doing, when they came up with correct torque settings on these cars. If something is loose, it will cause excessive wear, over a period of time, and or miles. Peace, and Good Luck!

Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:27 am

Russ Wolfe used to say never back off the castle nut any to get the cotter pin in. Tighten further to the next notch. Loose is what kills them!

Wed Dec 31, 2014 10:34 am

Yes, the tightness often helps it seal.

And yes, tighten it more if it doesn't line up.
I've only had one not line up or be super close when I used the correct torque.
It was wayyyy off so I grabbed another nut as I figured something was weird with the one that didn't line up.

Wed Dec 31, 2014 11:14 am

drivingpenguin wrote: Hmmm, interesting point Bob... The axle nut was nowhere near as tight as it should have been. It came right off without using my long breaker bar. It had a pin through the castle nut, but shame on me for not checking its torque when I got the car. I'm assuming then that the high axel nut torque helps wither seal?

If the axle nut isn't torqued to spec, it will cause gear lube to pass by the seals. Remember, there's a regular lipped seal (main seal), along with an "O" ring, and the "O" ring is what does most of the sealing with the axle nut (keeps fluid from traveling down the axle shaft). It also resides behind the spacer that the main seal rides on. So, YES, the axle nut needs to be torqued to the correct spec (217 ft lbs).