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Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:38 pm

Hi All:
Looking to build a 20 by 30 detached garage for a project car/main wrenching area.

Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim

Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:39 pm

Make sure you have all permits, inspections and it meets code. Or they'll make you fix it after and will cost much more than doing it right in the first place.

Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:42 pm

Design it with a garage door at both ends so you can pull through if you want/need to. I was advised to do the same thing when I had mine built, but didn't listen. Live and learn. That is the only thing I really regret in my overall design.

Sun Apr 01, 2012 7:00 pm

However big you think it should be at first - make it larger, if you can afford it.

Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:59 pm

Like Everett said if you can make it larger you will not regret it and have room for more shall I say stuff.

Mon Apr 02, 2012 4:50 am

Assuming you're doing a concrete floor, put radiant heat tubing in the floor. It costs very little to put the tubes in and even if you don't use them right away, when you want them, they're there to hook up. I realize you're in Florida, but I'm sure you have some cooler days where a warm floor would be a welcome thing. You cannot go back and do this later, at least not easily.

Mon Apr 02, 2012 7:47 am

If only 1 story with a pitched roof, make the ceiling joists able to handle more the usual 20 psf 'storage' loading. I'd go for minimum 40 psf and put in a way to haul stuff up there.

Power for lights, outlets, and a few dedicated 20 amp circuts (or more) for compressor, welders, AC, beer fridge.

Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:22 am

Make the height 12 feet or more in case you want to get a hoist one of these days.
My 2 post hoist is the best investmant I made for my shop
cheers
hank

Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:31 am

Drain and water line plumbing for a small bathroom, or parts washer/sink..

Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:37 am

All good ideas so far but what is your budget? Are you building it or having it built? Mine is several years old but this is what I did. http://vwtopia.com/barn.htm The barn is finished, just not this website.

Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:38 am

At least a 200 amp service

Mon Apr 02, 2012 10:49 am

My new garage is 40' x 28' x 12' tall ceilings and 12' x 28' of that is my woodshop. 2 car bays with 1 car lift. I used structurally insulated panels ~ R-40 or better along with radiant floor heat to keep it cheap to heat. 6" insulated concrete floor (4000 psi + fibermesh) with 2" of extra concrete under where the 2 lift posts go. 100 amp service for me is fine. Most of the wiring is conduit.

I am just finishing up the inside now. Sheetrock ceiling and shiplap pine walls.

We had a 40 MPH wind the other day and nothing getting through.

Mon Apr 02, 2012 11:15 am

EverettB wrote: However big you think it should be at first - make it larger, if you can afford it.

So true, my 4-stall is too small :?

Mark

Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:33 pm

kahala46 wrote: At least a 200 amp service

X2. also, buy the brightest lights you can. my shop is like a paint booth it's so bright. i also added a ceiling fan. i ran hot and cold water, plus a indoor hose hook up too. my 1 regret is i put in too many window's and lost some wall space. the flip side is i don't need lights on to work durring the day.

i was lucky and built mine when we built our house

i also ran phone, cable and internet out there too. i just got a case of the 'might as well's' when we poured the floor, i used high strength concrete and wire mesh. i also dug 2 'pits' below grade under where my lif would go, so the concrete is about 2 feet deep by 3 feet wide in the area where the lift anchors to. i know, total overkill, but thats how i roll. also, in the lift bay, i used a side winder garage door opener so i wouldn't have to worry about hitting and cars on the guide bar a normal door opener has. you can kind of see what i mean in one of the pix.

*edit* put your plugs and windows up high enough to match any work bench height you may be looking for

Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:17 pm

Glenn wrote: Make sure you have all permits, inspections and it meets code. Or they'll make you fix it after and will cost much more than doing it right in the first place.

And depending on the town/ township you are in it could be a nightmare. I built a 40'x42' garage at my old house with no problems. Nothing but headaches trying to build one at my new place. I need a variance for everything, and after I got one for the impervious coverage, not they tell me I need one for the height. Hopefully by the end of the month that will be settled. Good thing the new house has a bar in the basement!

Mon Apr 02, 2012 4:45 pm

All good suggestions, mine's been in beta testing for 10 years now, 30X50X16 is a good size, 1/3 is mezzanine with a paint area below, any more and it turns into a storage shed, if you want to keep the projects moving go way smaller. Definitely go big on the electrical service and water/sewer is a nice feature too. I'm sort of regretting all the windows in mine, I put them high enough up that they don't effect wall space but they are still at a height where bad guys can eye up my shit and possibly break in, better if they were 6'+ off the ground. Lots of doors is a nice feature as well but at the same time they eat up wall space for workbenches, parts shelving, tool boxes, machinery, etc., I really only use one 16' wide rollup and a man door and the others are buried. The heated floor is definitely a nice feature but it does make installing anchors for hoists, milling machines, etc. a game of Russian roulette with the drill. I went 3' up the wall with the concrete foundation so sparks, flying tools, etc. wouldn't damage the walls or start a fire, also makes hosing it out easy. I've got the HP discharge lights like you see in warehouses or Costco, awesome bright light but useless for 5 minutes when you first turn them on, I recommecd them but wish I had added a second circuit for some plain flourescents to flick on for those times when you're just in for a few minutes.

Mon Apr 02, 2012 7:22 pm

I am using high output (54 watts x 4 for each of 5 fixtures) T5 flouresent lights. Quite bright. A little pricey ($70 x 5 for the fixtures) + (20 x $10 for the bulbs) but very bright and come on right now.

Tue Apr 03, 2012 5:10 am

Make sure you have some outlets wired for 220/221 -- whatever is takes.

Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:47 am

Schooner Tuna - the tuna with a heart.

Sorry, the 220 221 line brought back too many memories.

Tue Apr 03, 2012 4:31 pm

my suggestions:

1. radiant heating in the slab
2. high ceiling with mezzanine for storage
3. small "clean" room for computer/books, etc. that you don't want oil on
4. draw-through ventilation
5. More outlets than you think you need on dedicated circuits
6. inexpensive washing machine and dryer so you wont need to crud up your nice one in the house with greasy shop towels, cover-alls, rags, etc.
7. floor drain with oil/water trap
8. epoxy coated concrete
9. large slop sink
10. commercial LED panel-lighting. They are expensive, yes, but they are bright as day, create very little heat, and their efficiency is second to none. Payoff is around 9 years to recoup expense.