| DieSchnelleKafer |
Tue Apr 03, 2012 4:01 am |
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went to start the por 15 treatment on my sand blasted pan on the weekend and found that the marine clean was not touching the left over residue from some paint stripper i used, not even after i swipe it with a solvent! it was just clumping the water up and i could tell that the por 15 was no where near going to stick.
who has ideas? if this doesnt work i am thinking of using raptor bedliner |
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| Mike Fisher |
Tue Apr 03, 2012 7:52 am |
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| NO bedliner on pans! :-& Use Master Series or Rust Bullet. Sand blast them again to get rid of the stripper residue. |
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| skills@eurocarsplus |
Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:50 am |
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| Nothing wrong with bedliner pans. Kills a ton of road noise. I have no suggestion for your prob but try superclean and a hose. If superclean won't touch it I would hink you are in trouble. Worth a shot |
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| gfw1985 |
Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:38 am |
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| Raptorliner is no different than anything else, not going to adhere properly. You will need to take care of that residue first. No help here, any ideas I have are untested. |
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| schell '59 |
Tue Apr 03, 2012 5:49 pm |
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...you have to clean the s--t out of the stripper left over..it's never going to get out of there.
...bedliners are fine i guess but the "off the shelf" type you buy these days are not even close to real line x or pro'tex liner..
sem pro tex liner is very very tough and sprays way more clean and levels alot better than the peppered looking liners you see in trucks these days.
i've sprayed so many chassis and wells with pro tex i lost count and it has NEVER peeled when doing it correctly. |
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| craigman |
Tue Apr 03, 2012 6:22 pm |
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POR15 just plain sucks.
Seen way too many POR15 jobs just lift up and peel.
Just sandblast/sand and chassis black for me from now on. |
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| sparkleplenty |
Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:35 pm |
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| If you take your time, follow directions and do it right, there is no better coating than POR-15....just my opinion. |
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| BDSBSS23 |
Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:46 pm |
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| Been there with por 15. I hated it and i made a mistake to use a paint stripper. Never again im using it.... |
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| 66brm |
Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:07 am |
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| What stripper were you using Blair? |
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| marklaken |
Wed Apr 04, 2012 12:50 pm |
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sandblast followed by paint strip?
I too have made the mistake of using paint stripper - too slow and messy - it's not for me, (same goes for sandblasting) - now I just sand until my arms go numb - there is no cheap and easy way to remove paint...
The paint stripper residue cleans up with water, but you have to clean up right after you strip. If the residue is hardened, just apply more stripper, let it soak in and get gooey, then clean up the whole area with a damp rag. I doubt wax and grease remover (is that what Marine clean is?) would do much to remove thick surface films - it evaporates too quickly to penetrate and the paint stripper film is water soluble...Usually you clean with soap and water prior to wax and grease remover just for this reason (plus it's cheaper)... |
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| DieSchnelleKafer |
Fri Apr 06, 2012 3:24 am |
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ok thanks for all the suggestions guys, 66brm: it was diggers paint stripper. after a little thought i tried some brake cleaner, each go it would take a bit of the film off as we go, i did a test patch and it worked,
in hindsight: it was not the por15 that was at fault it was the fact i diddnt clean the stripper properely with water after i used it. anyway back to painting!
thanks
Blair |
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| lyrikz |
Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:07 pm |
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DieSchnelleKafer wrote: went to start the por 15 treatment on my sand blasted pan on the weekend and found that the marine clean was not touching the left over residue from some paint stripper i used, not even after i swipe it with a solvent! it was just clumping the water up and i could tell that the por 15 was no where near going to stick.
who has ideas? if this doesnt work i am thinking of using raptor bedliner
I see a bunch of these threads. I just had my whole pan sand blasted, top/bottom/suspension/front beam. All of it. 150 bucks. thats it. Immediately i epoxied, painted/ linexed it. Going to last another 30 years without issue.
If you use strippers, soda, that stuff always seems to leach back. Just have it blasted and do it right.
My thread if you want to take a peak.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=505547 |
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| drehzahl7 |
Wed Apr 18, 2012 1:01 pm |
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| $150!? i just got quoted $500+ for just the body with no doors, hood or anything!? |
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| lyrikz |
Wed Apr 18, 2012 1:38 pm |
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drehzahl7 wrote: $150!? i just got quoted $500+ for just the body with no doors, hood or anything!?
Wow.
Body is a bit more, but not that much more.. Im in washington state so who knows if its cheaper. They charge a bit more for plastic media. On the body/doors and everything else, he hits it with plastic. Then goes back over and hits all the rust with sand.
I literally pick the vehicle up, tow it to the shop, blow all the sand and everything off, and epoxy. That easy... My pan, top/and bottom was 152 dollars after tax.
You need to find a shop that is out to not rape you. He originally quoted me 300 bucks. He only bills for the time spent. |
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| likestoparty |
Fri Apr 20, 2012 9:44 am |
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| The more I dig into my pan, the more I realize I'm going to need to split the body off soon. I'm in Seattle, too, a recent arrival. I would really appreciate the name of the shop where you had your pan blasted. My issues are really more the entire perimeter of the body shell where it mates and I think I have a welding class in my future to keep this stupid Seattle rain off my feet while I drive! |
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| lyrikz |
Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:04 am |
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likestoparty wrote: The more I dig into my pan, the more I realize I'm going to need to split the body off soon. I'm in Seattle, too, a recent arrival. I would really appreciate the name of the shop where you had your pan blasted. My issues are really more the entire perimeter of the body shell where it mates and I think I have a welding class in my future to keep this stupid Seattle rain off my feet while I drive!
ahahah...
Question for you... Would you happen to want to go in with me on building a bug rotisserie?? The metal is 300 bucks. I dont want to spend the money on that to only use it once. You want to split it, i will build it, then in a month i can transport it to your house so you can do your bug?? Just a thought... Trying to meet more bug guys. lol. |
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| likestoparty |
Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:26 am |
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| Yes, I am VERY interested. It's definitely a project I've considered building for years. The body shell of my Bug was poorly restored about 20 years ago and needs some detailed attention to fit correctly again. I can't guarantee a timeframe, I work in restaurants and was blindsided by how sleepy Seattle gets during the winter. Food and a brake system rehabilitation have sapped me financially, but it appears the tourists are starting to return and things are looking up. Maybe a month? I'll PM my deets. You're right, it would be good to have someone to bounce ideas off of in some of this unchartered territory for me. |
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| lyrikz |
Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:28 am |
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likestoparty wrote: Yes, I am VERY interested. It's definitely a project I've considered building for years. The body shell of my Bug was poorly restored about 20 years ago and needs some detailed attention to fit correctly again. I can't guarantee a timeframe, I work in restaurants and was blindsided by how sleepy Seattle gets during the winter. Food and a brake system rehabilitation have sapped me financially, but it appears the tourists are starting to return and things are looking up. Maybe a month? I'll PM my deets. You're right, it would be good to have someone to bounce ideas off of in some of this unchartered territory for me.
Sweet.. Let me know. I want to get one going quickly. I just dont have the 300 to dump on it.. I could just slap it on the credit card. But im trying not to. ahahha.. |
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