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Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:26 am

it's on the way. comes with a bonus pair of used jeans..lol they were clean.

Thu Apr 05, 2012 10:10 am

any high heat paint will likely be ceramic based. you don't want that, ceramic is an insulator. use a standard paint, and put it on very light.

Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:19 am

Wayne26 wrote: it's on the way. comes with a bonus pair of used jeans..lol they were clean.

HA HA! Thank you so much! If there's anything that comes up that you need, let me know and I'll do my best to help out!! :D :D

Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:20 am

bugninva wrote: any high heat paint will likely be ceramic based. you don't want that, ceramic is an insulator. use a standard paint, and put it on very light.

Okay. That'll work. How hot do the cylinders and intake get?

Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:09 am

Wayne26 wrote: it's on the way. comes with a bonus pair of used jeans..lol they were clean.

Got it!!! :D Thank you so much Wayne!!!!!!!! :D :D :D

Got all kinds of excited, got all set up, got me a rag soaked in oil to wipe piston down to make sure it was clean and the rag snagged on the skirt.

WTF?

A $%#@ crack!!!! Tiny little thing. It might even just be an irregularity as small as it is, but not taking chances. It's just enough to snag a rag and to feel when I run my finger along the skirt, but if I leave it in there, it just might actually crack and bow out or in causing REAL damage.

Dammit.

SO. Now the hunt for a 92mm piston. I'm not going to kill myself with this. I'm stressing myself out. I'm going to place and ad for one, but start trying to save some $ to get an entire set. I might not make CYW or even our own big show. But, if I do end up getting a new set. I'm NOT trading or selling this motor in any hurry. It was only meant to get me on the road. Not as a money pit project. :cry:

Oh well. Sucking it up and doing what I can do!

Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:29 am

is it at the bottom of the skirt? post a picture of it. it would be worth taking to a local engine shop and confirm it's a crack, would not cost much if anything at all.

I can send you a piston but I know the balance will be wayyy off. those look like AA's and I have another brand. do you have a scale to measure how many grams the piston is?

Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:42 am

Wayne26 wrote: is it at the bottom of the skirt? post a picture of it.

I can send you a piston but I know the balance will be wayyy off. those look like AA's and I have another brand. do you have a scale to measure how many grams the piston is?

It's in the skirt. My camera won't pick it up. I can just feel it and it's more pronounced when I run my finger inside the skirt. I swear it feels like it's a crack that doesn't come all the way thru the skirt, but is longer and larger inside of the piston. The piston is a Mahle.

I was told yesterday that with that kind of crack, it is most likely a defect in the piston. Possibly that I'm feeling a line from the casting (a bad one) and it became a weak spot. There's less than 1000 miles on this piston set. I checked the others and they are all fine.

I don't have a scale here, but I have a fried who does. I had my big bore kit piston skirts in my 40 horse ground down and rebalanced. Can that be done with a larger piston?

And I know they need to be balanced, but what does an out of balance piston do? I read some thread here that a guy ran 3 87mm pistons and one smaller and it caused one of the 87mm pistons to throw a rod out of the case. I didn't think it was that catastrophic! :shock:

Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:46 am

Correction - the small piston's rod went thru the case. I was paranoid when i had the big bore kit installed and was looking up worst case scenarios. :lol:

Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:19 am

OutlawAlice wrote: andy198712 wrote: and dont use any insulating paint ect

Insulating paint. I have two heat paints at my disposal. BBQ/grill paint and Header paint. I used Header paint on my muffler and heater boxes.

How do I know if it's insulating? Do you have a suggestion?

from bill's book, just a light coat of flat black, not sure out of your two which would be best sorry

Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:23 am

OutlawAlice wrote: Correction - the small piston's rod went thru the case. I was paranoid when i had the big bore kit installed and was looking up worst case scenarios. :lol:

i stripped an engine that i brought as a 1641, but one was a 1600, had spun a rod bearings and nipped the ring, and spun a bearing..... all junk. not sure wether it was related or not to the one smaller piston.....

like running 17in rims and one 14in rim on your car lol

Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:30 am

andy198712 wrote: OutlawAlice wrote: andy198712 wrote: and dont use any insulating paint ect

Insulating paint. I have two heat paints at my disposal. BBQ/grill paint and Header paint. I used Header paint on my muffler and heater boxes.

How do I know if it's insulating? Do you have a suggestion?

from bill's book, just a light coat of flat black, not sure out of your two which would be best sorry

I have plain flat black. I'm going to use that. My cylinders are in good shape with no rust, so a very minimum coat will be all I do. I was at a friend's house yesterday and he runs a 2110 that has proven to be bullet proof and he said he did the same thing more to keep rust at bay. Biggest thing is to make sure I have all the tins. Especially the small ones that clip in underneath the cylinders. I went through mine with him and I have every single tin! That will make the best difference in cooling combined with the plain flat black paint to ward off rusting.

Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:37 am

andy198712 wrote: OutlawAlice wrote: Correction - the small piston's rod went thru the case. I was paranoid when i had the big bore kit installed and was looking up worst case scenarios. :lol:

i stripped an engine that i brought as a 1641, but one was a 1600, had spun a rod bearings and nipped the ring, and spun a bearing..... all junk. not sure wether it was related or not to the one smaller piston.....

like running 17in rims and one 14in rim on your car lol

That's what I had pictured - not blowing a rod out of the top of the case. Wobble, wobble kind of deal. :lol:

My piston kit for my 1641 might be chinese, but they are balanced perfectly. My Mahle kit wasn't. The drama, pics and results are in my build thread.

I freaking love Volkswagens. They're like having more teenagers. :P

How can something that takes all your money and constantly do such stupid things, still make you so happy when all is right?

Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:40 am

andy198712 wrote: OutlawAlice wrote: Correction - the small piston's rod went thru the case. I was paranoid when i had the big bore kit installed and was looking up worst case scenarios. :lol:

i stripped an engine that i brought as a 1641, but one was a 1600, had spun a rod bearings and nipped the ring, and spun a bearing..... all junk. not sure wether it was related or not to the one smaller piston.....

like running 17in rims and one 14in rim on your car lol

And I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who didn't get what they were told originally. But - lemon drop martinis out of rotten lemons!

Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:55 am

OutlawAlice wrote: Driver with a Big Motor. Good or bad?
Very Good. Drove a 2110 daily for 7 yrs., keeping up the maintenance was a chore not to forget the 1:00 am nights but all worth it.

Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:09 am

smkn_vw wrote: OutlawAlice wrote: Driver with a Big Motor. Good or bad?
Very Good. Drove a 2110 daily for 7 yrs., keeping up the maintenance was a chore not to forget the 1:00 am nights but all worth it.

Thank you! That's what I've been getting. Even from local folks. I think mybe my worries stem from the fact that this is more of a frankenstien motor than a full rebuilt motor. But I have some friends telling me that when my 1641 is done, that maybe I should consider doing a real rebuild on the 1835 as well.

I talked to hubby about it last night. He said if I can run it frankenstien style and the bottom end is fine, we can consider a full set of new pistons and a set of kadrons. I just really can't do another full breakdown because my 40 horse is next.

Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:15 am

the reason I ask about the weight was that I have a few different weight pins and that could add or remove some weight depending on what yours weigh.

I don't know what will happen if you use one piston that's 50 grams different. at the least I'm sure you would have a bad vibration and more bearing wear.

the NPR piston with pin/rings is 631 grams, maybe find the weight of yours and then ask others if they think it will be ok. I bet the Mahle's are a lot heavier due to the longer skirts.

Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:20 am

Wayne26 wrote: the reason I ask about the weight was that I have a few different weight pins and that could add or remove some weight depending on what yours weigh.

I don't know what will happen if you use one piston that's 50 grams different. at the least I'm sure you would have a bad vibration and more bearing wear.

the NPR piston with pin/rings is 631 grams, maybe find the weight of yours and then ask others if they think it will be ok. I bet the Mahle's are a lot heavier due to the longer skirts.

Gotcha. I'll pull both #3 and #4 and weigh them and get back to you on that. I know there's a tolerance between weights from one to the next, but I don't know what they are. Should I weight with and without wrist pins?

Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:51 am

OutlawAlice wrote:

SO. Now the hunt for a 92mm piston. I'm not going to kill myself with this. I'm stressing myself out. I'm going to place and ad for one, but start trying to save some $ to get an entire set. Email sent. I have 2 used low mileage Mahle 92 As. No cylinders, just pistons.

Sun Apr 08, 2012 3:26 pm

Mack_T wrote: I've always painted my cylinders black... so I have nothing to compare temps to. Keeps them from rusting too bad at least.

If you do, make sure to use a fairly thin coat of black paint. Don't want to insulate it with a super thick coating :)

Good luck!

You may wanna have a read of this.

http://www.offroadvw.net/tech/wes/black.html

Sun Apr 08, 2012 4:04 pm

I would have liked to see the results with rust on the barrel as well. The article wasn't very thoroughly explained, but a clean barrel *will* rust after a while.
If a rusty barrel is worse than a painted one - a painted one is better than a clean one.
Or so it may seem, speculating that rust insulates the barrel. This may not be so.