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  View original topic: Front shocks for a buggy
scotth17 Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:57 pm

I tried to research what folks were using for front shocks on their ball joint front beam buggies, especially with lighter or fewer front springs. Mine came with GR2s and were way too stiff! After much experimenting, I came up with a simple solution that is working very well. I didn't take pictures, but I will explain it so anyone can do it easily. I bought a pair of Napa Response blue shocks for about $30. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetai...ype%3aA%29
These are actually low-pressure nitrogen filled shocks. Softer than most, but way too much dampening for a buggy! All the shocks had too much rebound dampening for lighter spring rates, and consecutive bumps would "pack" the front end. I experimented with different weight oils and found the right one through trial and error. RedLine Like Water fluid is what I ended up with. It's the lightest suspension fluid I could find and it works great. About $10 for 16 oz. and that is how much you'll need. To change the fluid out I extended the shock, and drilled a #40 hole about an inch and a half below the seal head. Drilling slowly to let the nitrogen out. Then I drilled another #40 hole about 3/8" to the side of the first hole for a vent (easier to fill later!) With the 2 holed drilled, I used a scotchbrite pad on a die grinder to remove the paint and roughen the area around the holes. Then turn the shock over holes down over a bowl and get all the fluid out, working shock back and forth to empty the damper tube. A little less than 8 oz. comes out. After draining completely, I used a centerpunch and hammer to lightly dimple the holes inward a bit. Then I got 4 small brad type nails with heads a little bigger than the holes and cut the shanks off to about 1/16" long. I then used a syringe to inject the new oil in one of the holes with the holes facing up and working the shock shaft in and out to fill the dampening tube. You can feel and hear when it gets full. Holds about 7.5 oz. each. When the shocks are full, hold them up and down and collapse shaft and some oil will run out of the holes, volume displaced by the shock shaft. Then extend shock shaft and lay shock on bench, holes up, and clean up oil with acetone or similar, cleaning the area around the holes good. Then I put the nail bits over the holes to cover them. I mixed up some JB Weld and puddled some in the dimples. I used a piece of clear packing tape and put it over the JB Weld as this keeps it from running anywhere or bubbles coming from under the nail bits. Let the JB Weld cure thoroughly,and then bolt 'em on! It made my street buggy ride like you want it to.

GTBRADLEY Thu Apr 05, 2012 3:28 am

I just run without shocks!

andk5591 Thu Apr 05, 2012 3:37 am

very interesting and lots of good info - way different approach. Just curious what size tires and pressure you are running in the front. Reason I am asking is that I am running 205/55 15s on the front. Dont remember the pressure for sure, but thinking around 16 and I run GR2s and the ride is real nice - but little firm, which I like.

manxdavid Thu Apr 05, 2012 5:00 am

Bruce Meyers came up with a similar fix in the 60s, draining the oil from stock dampers and re-filling with a 50/50 mix of the shock oil and BBQ lighter fluid, soldering the hole up afterwards.

scotth17 Thu Apr 05, 2012 5:18 am

I run 205 60 15 fronts at 14 psi. BBQ lighter fluid is naptha and will dry seals out prematurely. To gauge firmness try hitting a speed bump at 10 mph. Does it go "cush" or "WHOMP"!? :lol:

manxdavid Thu Apr 05, 2012 5:44 am

scotth17 wrote: I run 205 60 15 fronts at 14 psi. BBQ lighter fluid is naptha and will dry seals out prematurely. To gauge firmness try hitting a speed bump at 10 mph. Does it go "cush" or "WHOMP"!? :lol:

I wasn't suggesting that method, just quoting it as a piece of history these days. There are a lot more grades of damper oil about nowadays.

clay ford Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:17 am

GTBRADLEY wrote: I just run without shocks!
I cant speak for the op but my front beam has been cut and turned, I drove around without shocks and it was soo bad that if i pressed the brakes in sequence i could make the front end hop. :lol:

didget69 Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:00 pm

Anyone drilling & filling a damper today would want to use motorcycle fork oil... the oil viscosity/weights are very low, like in the single digits.

http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycles/fork-oil.html

But don't drill gas shocks...

Dale M. Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:17 pm

Really tired (old) stock oil filled shocks (no gas) work just fine...

Dale

EVfun Thu Apr 05, 2012 6:00 pm

GTBRADLEY wrote: I just run without shocks!

Me too! They where trashed during construction so I've never driven it with front shocks. It rides just fine -- there is sufficient friction in the suspension to prevent oscillation.

scotth17 Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:03 pm

didget69 wrote: Anyone drilling & filling a damper today would want to use motorcycle fork oil... the oil viscosity/weights are very low, like in the single digits.

http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycles/fork-oil.html

But don't drill gas shocks...

The first oil on that list is the one specified in my post....

scotth17 Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:05 pm

Dale M. wrote: Really tired (old) stock oil filled shocks (no gas) work just fine...

Dale
I'm sure they do, but they are not readily available to all as the Napa shocks are....I looked....

scotth17 Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:10 pm

EVfun wrote: GTBRADLEY wrote: I just run without shocks!

Me too! They where trashed during construction so I've never driven it with front shocks. It rides just fine -- there is sufficient friction in the suspension to prevent oscillation.
No shocks might be acceptable to you, but properly dampened suspension is worlds better if you try it! Buggies don't have to ride like like go carts, they can ride like any other car and handle well all around. The bump-steer with no shocks would scare me!



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