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Thu May 03, 2012 1:44 pm

Why do you have a 6/12volt starter bushing there in the 1st pic?

81'Westfalia wrote: Got my shifter parts today.. Now lets hope they fix my problems.
For others.. these are parts A, B, C, J, I, K and L from this diagram (80-83)
http://www.bus-boys.com/shifter83.html

Thu May 03, 2012 4:17 pm

From what I know it's used to replace part L.. http://www.bus-boys.com/shifter83.html

That's based purely on it being shaped similarly, looks to match up in the diagram and ken from vanagain sent it.. I believe he said I may need to sand down the 6/12v bushing a little to fit. I'll hopefully be getting everything put on in the next day or so. I'll let you know how it works out.
danfromsyr wrote: Why do you have a 6/12volt starter bushing there in the 1st pic?

Wed May 09, 2012 3:09 pm

Got the van back today and everything is working great.

All of the new bushings and boots I purchased from Ken @ Vanagain fit very well. The bronze 6/12v bushing worked just fine. To those who didn't read my issues were 1st gear being a PITA to find (going into 1st from N was near impossible, and going down and over into 1st from Reverse was hard but doable). Now my shifter feels like a brand new car (almost)... It works as it should. With my worn bushings, boots and guide pin replaced I can now shift into all gears smoothly :o No more getting stuck at stop lights.

Now.. what to tackle next. Probably my starting issue after the van sits 2+ days. I have an electric fuel pump, single carb, 009 distrib and after the van sits 2+ days it will turn over but not start. I've been having to use a small amount of starter fluid (unfortunately) for it to start when this happens until I get it fixed. He said the carb seemed to be functioning properly and it was timed pretty well..

I've read for weeks now on similar issues and what might be causing it but I still feel lost as to where to even begin :?

Wed May 09, 2012 4:00 pm

You have a single carb, as in a center mounted progressive, or something else? Progressives tend to start very well both cold and hot as with no manifold heat they don't boil the gas on shutdown. Is your choke closing? Looking down the throat of the carb, when you pump the gas do you see a jet of gas squirting into the venturi?

Wed May 09, 2012 8:31 pm

Wildthings wrote: You have a single carb, as in a center mounted progressive, or something else? Progressives tend to start very well both cold and hot as with no manifold heat they don't boil the gas on shutdown. Is your choke closing? Looking down the throat of the carb, when you pump the gas do you see a jet of gas squirting into the venturi?

I'll try to check on that..

If I'm not seeing a jet of gas while it is running what would direction would that lead me to look in? Fuel pump/filter?

Wed May 09, 2012 9:03 pm

81'Westfalia wrote: Wildthings wrote: You have a single carb, as in a center mounted progressive, or something else? Progressives tend to start very well both cold and hot as with no manifold heat they don't boil the gas on shutdown. Is your choke closing? Looking down the throat of the carb, when you pump the gas do you see a jet of gas squirting into the venturi?

I'll try to check on that..

If I'm not seeing a jet of gas while it is running what would direction would that lead me to look in? Fuel pump/filter?

Doesn't have to be running to check this, just do it with the engine stopped. This test will tell you if the accelerator pump is working or not. Even the slightest movement of the throttle should make a bit of gas come out the nozzle. A quick movement should send out a solid stream.

Thu May 10, 2012 4:25 pm

I see a bit of gas down inside the carb while pumping the gas.

It's odd because if I start it everyday I don't have any issues. I drove it from 6pm-7pm yesterday, it sat until about 1pm today and it within 1 second.

It seems that over time it progressively takes more effort to get started.
+5 hours after running it typically starts right up no issues
+10-30 hours it either starts right up or requires a tap of the gas (still starts within 1-2 seconds)

Around the 2-3rd day it becomes nearly impossible to fire up unless starter fluid is sprayed in the intake.

Thu May 10, 2012 5:08 pm

81'Westfalia wrote:
Around the 2-3rd day it becomes nearly impossible to fire up unless starter fluid is sprayed in the intake.

Try running high test alcohol free gas and see if the problem goes away. Whatever they have done to gasoline in the last few years has made starting into a miserable experience. None of my carbureted rigs starts today anywhere near as well as they did 5 years ago.

Thu May 10, 2012 8:00 pm

Wildthings wrote:
Try running high test alcohol free gas and see if the problem goes away. Whatever they have done to gasoline in the last few years has made starting into a miserable experience. None of my carbureted rigs starts today anywhere near as well as they did 5 years ago.

I'll try that when I fill up next. I'm suspecting my intake headers/carb are not getting enough heat.

Mon May 14, 2012 2:28 pm

Tried 10 gallons of ethanol free unleaded yet problem still exists. Today I had to use starter fluid and I last drove it only 12 hours ago. It turns over and attempts to start up the entire time I'm turning the key but just doesn't fire up.

Tried pumping gas pedal once/twice/three times before trying to crank and it doesn't help. Think I'm going to post some pictures of my carb setup over in the bay window forum and try to get advice.

:| May have to end up selling my dream vehicle until I can afford to get a reliable dd and this for trips :twisted:

Here's some new pics

Mon May 14, 2012 7:33 pm

while I don't like carbs on these vans, it's for many reasons other than reliability. but maybe it's funked up.
they do dissassemble fairly easily and the smallparts kits are cheap.. not comfortable with it. find a friend with a small engine or motorcycle hobby.

worse case is buy another 2nd hand carb and you should still be good togo..

best luck.

Tue Jun 05, 2012 10:50 pm

Just an update.. Over the past 3 weeks I've not had to use starter fluid once to get it started. I've simply made it a habit to pump the gas pedal 3+ times before I try to crank.

No issues driving daily 10-25 miles. I don't seem to have a "flat spot" like many claim all 009's give.

Wed Jun 06, 2012 7:41 am

Started driving her this morning with my headlights on.. Started noticing a burning smell, then I see a small amount of smoke coming from behind the headlight switch inside the dash. I quickly turned the headlights off and it stopped smoking thankfully.

Now to find out what's causing it....

--------

Looks like I'll need to check wires/ground then probably upgrade to relays and a new switch. I've never messed with electrical work so this should be fun. :lol:

Wed Jun 06, 2012 9:14 am

Have your tried adjusting your choke coil? Turning the coil about 1/16" (measured on the rim) can make a big difference in starting and warm up. You should make a mark on the coil cover where it aligns with the marks on the body so you know how much you have rotated it. The coil rotates in the opposite direction to the choke butterfly itself, IIRC.

You want to choke to be fully closed on cold start
To open about 3/16" immediately on starting
To be fully open in about 5 minutes after start up.

Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:16 pm

What a day.

Thanks to my inaccurate gas gauge and non-working odometer I broke down at the very front of a fairly busy intersection.

My first thought was, no way I'm out of gas... Reluctantly used a little starter fluid thinking that would help get me started enough to possibly make it out down a side road and park, but had no luck.

Then I started thinking that maybe my "guessing how much gas is in" theory was wrong. Luckily where I broke down was literally within throwing a rock distance and a guy I work with happened to be there after store hours happened to see me. He came and helped push me out of the road. Decided to try 2 gallons of gas just in case I did run out. Still wouldn't completely turn over.

Then I remembered I read several times in the bay window forum about pouring fresh gas directly into the carb. Luckily I had a few drops left in the can and poured it in.. she then started right up and ran probably the best she ever had.

Now, seeing as after I poured in 2 gallons (if I was empty beforehand) and it still wouldnt start, without pouring fresh gas into the carb.. That would lead me to believe a fuel delivery issue is at hand around the carb.

I attempted turning the coil to the left 1/16", 2/16", 3/16" - and to the right but couldn't notice a difference as of yet. Roating in the opposite direction of the chock butterfly would be to the left I'm assuming.. that is if the butterfly is the black piece behind the choke coil.

Side note: On my 10 minute trip home it had already became dark enough that my headlights had to be on. Seeing as I just came across a problem where if my headlights are on, something starts to smoke behind the switch.. I was sort of on edge driving back. I realized I just found out I had been driving the past 2 months with high beams on and just the other day attempted to put the high beams on, when then my low beams came on. So 2 months of pissing off people... wow. lol. I then had the idea that maybe if I simply keep the high beams on as before, no potential fire would happen. 1-2-3 minutes go by no funny smells or smoke.. then bam it hits me. I panick turn off the lights and turn down a side road and sit for a few minutes thinking what to do being a few minutes from home. So I pull up to the road, put my flashers on and interior light, wait for majority of traffic to pass and then pulled out. Made it home fine, got high beamed myself once or twice but I'm back in my parking place.

I still love my van nonetheless.
But will be selling it once I fix this headlight switch/bad ground/w/e it is and possible carb/fuel issue.

It's honestly so enjoyable to drive and fix up.. but living paycheck to paycheck nearly makes each trip frightening for my wallet. I've realized that if for some reason the engine suddenly blew up out of no where, I'd be SOL driving a moped or $1000 beater.

Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:32 pm

If you run it out of gas, it can take a while for the fuel pump to pick up fuel and get it to the carb. If the pump is weak it can take even longer or plain may not be able to do so. I like to take a small container and use it to pour a bit of fuel into the vent for the fuel bowl. This will fill the bowl and allow the engine to run normally for a minute or so after start up so the fuel pump has a chance to pick up fuel.

The butterfly is the valve inside the top of the carb. You want it to close off the throat of the carb complete when cold and open complete in 5 minutes or so. You need to open the throttle one time for the choke valve (butterfly) to close.

Fri Jun 08, 2012 2:31 am

Thanks for the tip again..

I'm going to start carrying a small container of gas for when I run out or simply can't start it again. I'm starting to think if I've been keeping a low amount of gas in the tank (2-6 gallons) and is putting too much strain on the fuel pump.. possibly contributing to the problem at least.

Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:15 am

your fuel pump is for carb'd engines (low pressure) and should be near the fuel tank. the stock position for the injection pump wires already run down there.
depending on how they wired it (likely hot with just the key ON IGN)
then it takes very little time for it to fill the floatbowl in the carb.

and if you have no ODO and no Gauge. you have NO business running on the bottom half of the tank.. there's a little nerve on the nape of youe neck that tells you it's been a while since we've gotten gas.. don't ignore it and fill up regularly.. remember you always use the same amount of gas over a week/months time.. even if you run out and have to walk 3 miles for some.. it's best not to run out..

now in my case I had no gauge, no Odo and my tank leaked on the top half.. certainly made it interesting on my recent 1200mi fall trip.. if I stopped to camp and had more than half tank the fuel lleaking smell was nauseating to sleep to. so I had to really judge the miles.. and the milage by the seat of pants... never ran out...

now my tank is resealed, and a new (used) sender in place.

you can always go the Bay Bus route and carry a 2gal bungeed to yoru overhead storage... makes me cringe.. but they sit under the bomb all the time..