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Sat Apr 07, 2012 11:14 am

Bought the engine as turn key as is in 2009
15/6/2010 Gas pump axle went out
12/1/2010 Gas pump axle out for the second time
12/4/2010 New pump installed #113-127-0256
15/1/2011 After stop for gas ,car run 200 feet and died (car run before for 5 miles)
No smell of gas so I unplug the gas line and pump gas out and was able to start the car again .
20/1/2011 Changed gas tank +filters but did not clean the gas line
15/11/2011 After stop for 15 min car run 200 feet and died (car run before for 7 miles)
car Was towed to my house and start again without doing anything .
Changed gas filter just in case .
5/1/2012 After stop for 50min car did not start again (car run before for 15 miles)
No small of gas when cranking .
Car towed to shop
Shop set the timing and changed the gas pump push rod .
4/4/2012 After stop for 15 min car run 200 feet and died (car run before for 7 miles)
No smell of gas when cranking
Car towed to same shop
Shop said carb flot stuck
4/6/2012 Picked up the car from shop yesterday
Drove 15 miles with no problem and running well
After stop for 15 min car run 200 feet and died
No smell of gas when cranking

The car is running perfect the rest of the time

I have dual carb ICT on a single port engine .

Any idea on what’s going on ?

Sat Apr 07, 2012 4:24 pm

Years ago my dad had a similar problem with a new car. Turned out to be the gas cap was too tight and would seal the tank almost airtight. When doing short trips or running continuously the fuel pump could manage to overcome the partial vacuum. However, once stopped, the low pressure in the tank would suck the fuel lines dry and the car would not start.

Maybe you should open the tank when you have this problem and listen for air rushing in. If so check the breather hose is functional.

Nicholas.

Sat Apr 07, 2012 8:24 pm

I agree with sputnick. I've had 2 different vehicles do the same as you describe. fuel tanks needs to be vented.

Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:29 am

Vapor lock from not being vented or your fuel lines are too close to something hot and heat soak is causing the gas to boil.

Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:00 am

Thanks for your answer .

Last time when it happen ,I added 5 gallons of gas so I opened the gas and did not ear air rushing in the tank .
I did not change the position and place of the gas line since day one .

When I change my tank ,I had no gas in the line any more .
I put 2 gallons of gas ,crank the engine 3 time and gas was in the carb .

The pump should make the gas coming all the time ,right ?

After posting back, I locked at

http://www.vw-resource.com/vapor_lock.html

I can say ,it happen every time on a warm day or when pushing the car little harder .
I will talk with the mecanic tomorrow .

Mon Apr 09, 2012 1:48 pm

Went to see my mechanic this morning .
The car did not start after 48h so vapor lock is probably not the cause .
Gas was not coming so he removed the fuel pump and find out the push rod was warn out again .
He installed a new one and car start right away after few crank .
he is going to test drive the car a little longer today and call me .
They change the rod in January and I probably did 400 miles with it .
He said ,it can be internal or simply a bad push rod (too soft)

Mon Apr 09, 2012 4:23 pm

Id suggest you find another mechanic. Pushrods dont just wear out suddenly and you have multiple issues that arent being fixed.

Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:12 pm

hosspowerinc wrote: Id suggest you find another mechanic. Pushrods dont just wear out suddenly and you have multiple issues that arent being fixed.

He told me the problem can be internal .
I am agree with you when you say a push rod don't warn out suddently

Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:02 am

Patinsd wrote: Bought the engine as turn key as is in 2009
The car is running perfect the rest of the time

I have dual carb ICT on a single port engine .

Any idea on what’s going on ?

Was this engine built on an all aluminum case?

I'm just asking, because I had this same issue with my 65 Notch. It would vapor lock the pump, as the all aluminum case would hold more heat in it than a stock mag case. I went with a low pressure electric pump to fix my issue.

Tue Apr 10, 2012 12:05 pm

Bobnotch wrote: Patinsd wrote: Bought the engine as turn key as is in 2009
The car is running perfect the rest of the time

I have dual carb ICT on a single port engine .

Any idea on what’s going on ?

Was this engine built on an all aluminum case?

I'm just asking, because I had this same issue with my 65 Notch. It would vapor lock the pump, as the all aluminum case would hold more heat in it than a stock mag case. I went with a low pressure electric pump to fix my issue.

I guess it's an aluminum case .
It's a rebuilt single port engine .
electric pump ,that's what about I talked with him .
were is your pump located ?
Any maintenance ?

Tue Apr 10, 2012 4:30 pm

You can fit an electric pump under the tank at the front of the car. It makes it easy to wire it in to the ignition.

Type 3's with fuel injection used a pump mounted up front - might have been attached to the beam IIRC.

Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:52 pm

I wonder if it has the correct rod in it,since it was bought as a complete unit of unknown history

Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:17 am

Patinsd wrote: Bobnotch wrote: Patinsd wrote: Bought the engine as turn key as is in 2009
The car is running perfect the rest of the time

I have dual carb ICT on a single port engine .

Any idea on what’s going on ?

Was this engine built on an all aluminum case?

I'm just asking, because I had this same issue with my 65 Notch. It would vapor lock the pump, as the all aluminum case would hold more heat in it than a stock mag case. I went with a low pressure electric pump to fix my issue.

I guess it's an aluminum case .
It's a rebuilt single port engine .
electric pump ,that's what about I talked with him .
were is your pump located ?
Any maintenance ?

My pump is mounted to the front beam under the fuel tank. Electric pumps make better pushers than pullers. I haven't had to do a thing to it, since I went to the electric pump.

In my case, as long as I kept the engine running (didn't shut it off) the mechanical pump worked just fine (it ran for 16 hours non stop). It didn't care if I had the Solex carbs on it, or the Weber ICTs. But if you shut off the engine, it would start and run for all of about 200 yards (until the carb bowls were empty), then the only way to get it restarted (unless you waited a couple of hours) was to swap out the mechanical fuel pump (I carried a spare), and refill the float bowls. I added the electric pump, to see if I could get it restarted after it vapor locked the pump, but, the mechanical fuel pump still wouldn't pass fuel thru it. I ended by passing the mechanical pump, and got home the 6 miles that I still had left to travel (that day, as I was making a parts run for another project). After I got home, I redid the plumbing, and have just been using the electric pump. Everythings been fine with it since.