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  View original topic: Brake questions..
lbass Sun Apr 08, 2012 5:32 pm

I have a few questions but will start with what I know.

I have a 1960 pan and have replaced the master cyl. with a dual master and replaced all hard lines with OEM lines. I replaced 2 rubber lines and all seemed fine. The new master felt very soft and could be pressed all the way to the floor but would almost lock the tires. I then replaced the springs and things in the wheels but not the wheel cyl. themselves. Here is a question:

When you press the brakes, should the top and bottom plunger move out against the pads, thus stopping the wheel? On mine, only the bottom plunger moves at all.

I have bled the lines enough and have no air at all. Also, there seems to be no pressure when I bled the lines. fluid seems to dribble out but not shoot out as I have heard and read others being able to do.

Anyone have a suggestions? I would greatly appreciate it. I am missing an 85 degree day! : (

MOON BUGGY Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:00 pm

Does it look like this



#1 moves #4 is a adjuster

MOON BUGGY Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:12 pm

OR this one (FRONT)


lbass Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:16 pm

It's the front

MOON BUGGY Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:16 pm

Both plungers should move on the cylinder.

lbass Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:18 pm

It's a 1960 so are they 17mm, 19mm, or what bore?

MOON BUGGY Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:24 pm

If you hold the bottom shoe from moving (then press the break) will the top shoe Move :?: takes 2 people.

lbass Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:38 pm

Nope. but it pushes pretty hard on the one that does move.

lbass Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:52 pm

Is this the right one? Will it work?

http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/whe...re-p-13459

MOON BUGGY Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:02 pm

Yes.

lbass Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:04 pm

Thanks Moon Buggy! Ordering them tonight and trying to get this behind me and moving on. Really Appreciate the help.

dan macmillan Mon Apr 09, 2012 4:08 am

MOON BUGGY wrote: OR this one (FRONT)



If your cylinders are in the 9 & 3 o'clock positions like this you should unbolt the backing plate and rotate it so the cyl is at the top. Leave everything loose. Slip the drum over the shoes and bleed it. When all air is removed put the backing plate back on and finish ataching the drum and bearings and adjust your brakes. Your pedal should get rock hard about half way to the floor. Air gets trapped in the bottom of the upper wheel cyl cup as the bleeder is well below it.

drs1023 Mon Apr 09, 2012 1:10 pm

Dan, I rotated the backing plates like that back in the 70's and early 80's. It's been so long ago, I had almost forgotten it. Good advice.

lbass Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:00 pm

Thanks for the tip. I really appreciate it. I'll update how it works.



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