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asiab3 Wed Apr 11, 2012 12:43 am

Hello All!
I've been lurking here for the better part of 2 years learning about all things Bus. I've narrowed down my search to a few '71s that have stellar exteriors, (I suck at bodywork and can not weld) with mediocre interiors, (Rebuilding the Westy furniture sounds fun! I moderately love woodworking and non-metal fabricating.) The motors on these don't look the best, and I have a few questions.

From what I've read so far, on this engine I will replace the fuel lines ASAP. I should also move the fuel filter behind the firewall, correct? (Thinking back, the reverse lights didn't work when the owner drove away, and I see the fuse hanging there now… :oops:)



Is there anything I'm not seeing on this engine that I will need to do to get it back to stock specs? I live in the southwest desert so stock cooling capabilities will be important to me. (As well as headlights; I just wouldn't feel comfortable driving it in the 110+ daytime until I get everything 100%!)

I know the engine was overhauled by a "local VW specialist" 2 years ago who swapped the generator for an alternator. Gen and Oil lights function fine at startup. For the life of me, I can't remember what the clamp in the upper right above the oil bath cooler is supposed to hold. Anyone want to smack me upside the head for that?



I'm also fairly certain that ALL engine tin is in place except for the bottom on the passenger side shown here just hanging on:


Is that an easy tin to find? (Assuming the metal broke, not just a missing screw :wink:)

I feel silly for checking out the bus before really reading my way through hundreds of searches like I have now. (I would have taken better pictures…)

I appreciate all the community support I've seen here. You are all wonderful.

Desertbusman Wed Apr 11, 2012 4:43 am

Greetings-
Welcome to your hopefully soon joining of the Bay Window bus happy owners club. A '71 hardtop Westy in my opinion is the best you can get. The clamp is for the missing charcoal fuel vapor canister. Apart from what you have already mentioned nothing stands out as a real concern.

PM sent

Wildthings Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:10 am

It looks pretty complete and appears to be butchered less than most, which are good signs.

nodrenim Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:19 am

Bottom of engine looks, dry and clean, which are good signs.

busdaddy Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:23 am

Hard to find alot wrong in there, looks like there's hope for it if the compression is good and the endplay is within limits.

I'm diggin the panel on the ceiling 8)

sped372 Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:30 am

I see a 009 (not a dealbreaker, but add a new dizzy to the fix-it list) and shouldn't the vacuum port on the left-hand manifold riser be connected to the brake booster on a '71?

busdaddy Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:39 am

sped372 wrote: shouldn't the vacuum port on the left-hand manifold riser be connected to the brake booster on a '71?
No that's for the decel valve, the booster connects right under the carb and that hose appears to be present.

sped372 Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:40 am

I'm obviously a '70 bus man myself. So the booster hose is the larger diameter one?

busdaddy Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:59 am

Yes, the one along side the fuel line between the distributor and fresh air hose. Looks like heater hose though, I wonder if it collapses under suction?

Desertbusman Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:34 am

sped372 wrote: I see a 009

So what? I saw it also and had no concern. Some of us do tremendous with them. However a stock pulley is a big red flag that there is a good chance the timing is off.

sped372 Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:44 am

Desertbusman wrote: sped372 wrote: I see a 009

So what? I saw it also and had no concern. Some of us do tremendous with them. However a stock pulley is a big red flag that there is a good chance the timing is off.

If it works for you (or others), great. I have no problem with a setup that works. I personally have had the best luck with the stock setup, but to each his own. If I were personally looking at the bus I'd make a mental note that I may have to replace the distributor. If I went through with the purchase and it ran great and the engine was cool, I'd leave it. That is all.

borninabus Wed Apr 11, 2012 12:21 pm

it looks like the "bacon strip" under the pulley tin is missing on the 3/4 side and the rear breast plate looks to be a hack-job.

the crank case breather hose is hooked up to the wrong port on the air cleaner.
it should go underneath the "snout" and the imaginary charcoal canister should hook up where your breather is right now.

Desertbusman wrote: sped372 wrote: I see a 009

So what? I saw it also and had no concern. Some of us do tremendous with them.

one of these days, Mike...
i'm going to give you an o19 so you can see what all the hubub is about, bub :)

asiab3 Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:53 pm

busdaddy wrote: Looks like heater hose though, I wonder if it collapses under suction?

The red "B" light on the dash was on and braking felt very mushy. The owner said the master cylinder needs bleeding. Do you think the issue is actually related to the hose type used?

After 45 minutes running last weekend the dipstick was warm but I could hold it. It didn't have a temperature gauge, but for 95+ degrees outside the engine temp seemed fine. Possible new dizzy on the perspective list anyway…

Is there an inherent issue with the stock pulley, or is that just a sign that the timing may have been neglected?

And just to make sure, the crank case breather hose should go where the red plug is, and the (future) charcoal canister will hook onto where the crank case breather is now?

I got such a warm and fuzzy feeling waking up to such great help this morning, thanks again!

busdaddy Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:05 pm

The B light indicates a pressure imbalance in the hydraulics, the hose won't cause that but bleeding it may help. The stock pulley is just fine if you know exactly which one it is (there's a thread to identify it, each year is differently marked) and have an advance dial in style timing light to make use of the TDC mark on the pulley when you find it. Correct on the breather hoses BTW.

Amskeptic Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:24 pm

busdaddy wrote: sped372 wrote: shouldn't the vacuum port on the left-hand manifold riser be connected to the brake booster on a '71?
No that's for the decel valve, the booster connects right under the carb and that hose appears to be present.

No decel valve on '71s. They switched to a little dashpot snubber after discovering that the 5*ATDC timing + 34Pict3 air circuit were doing quite well with reducing idle emissions.

busdaddy Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:06 pm

Amskeptic wrote: busdaddy wrote: sped372 wrote: shouldn't the vacuum port on the left-hand manifold riser be connected to the brake booster on a '71?
No that's for the decel valve, the booster connects right under the carb and that hose appears to be present.

No decel valve on '71s. They switched to a little dashpot snubber after discovering that the 5*ATDC timing + 34Pict3 air circuit were doing quite well with reducing idle emissions.
Well mines got both the snubber and the mystery gizmo :wink: by the LH tail light to control the dashpot just like the pics in the green book, care to splain that? :P

Amskeptic Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:57 am

busdaddy wrote: Amskeptic wrote:
No decel valve on '71s. They switched to a little dashpot snubber after discovering that the 5*ATDC timing + 34Pict3 air circuit were doing quite well with reducing idle emissions.
Well mines got both the snubber and the mystery gizmo :wink: by the LH tail light to control the dashpot just like the pics in the green book, care to splain that? :P

Absolutely.
See, you don't have a real '71. Heinrich was late to work on August 7th, 1970, and he, um, he was late and stuff, and he accidentally sent the 1970 bus you really have to the , to the , to the paintbooth for the '71s, and then and then it was really really late, see so he thought, I have to get home, so he threw a dashpot on and stuck it in the next day's 1971 model year lot, wait a minute you can not have both the throttle positioner and the dashpot. You might have the later two piece throttle positioner.


busdaddy Tue Apr 17, 2012 10:47 am

Just what are you trying to say Colin? :P

ccpalmer Tue Apr 17, 2012 2:04 pm

busdaddy wrote: Just what are you trying to say Colin? :P


Yes what is this? I always thought that was OG porn there. Are you telling me I've been gawking at non-OG equipment there?!?

asiab3 Tue May 01, 2012 9:17 pm

A few weeks have gone by, and due to some things that were pointed out to me (bondo/paint issues, AND the fact that this bus made the Whine thread for being too expensive,) I decided not to buy it.

that being said…

I have found a beautiful looking '69 that had a complete body restoration and this motor put in it:


IMG_0254 by asiab3, on Flickr

I feel like all the things I noticed before (fuel lines and filter, etc.) still need attending, I still need some noob advice.

The oil-bath air filter has been subbed, and while I've seen a lot like this, I still cringe every time. The engine was the coolest running I've ever felt, even though the oil bath filter 'large outlet air hose' hole is unplugged.

It's the first bus I've driven that starts up cold without giving it gas for a minute, and it's the first that hasn't rattled my teeth loose when starting from a stop. What other tests should I give this bus before (possibly) bringing it home?



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