TheSamba.com :: View topic - no dash lights (printed circuit board?) what do i do?

Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:01 pm

hey since i am having trouble trying to figure this out my self i thought i would post this and see if any one has had the same problem and has any solutions

my dash lights [/b]went out and i cant see my spedo when it gets dark out, my turn signal and high beam LEDs still work but the dash lights over my spedomator and the tach arnt working (my model dosnt have a tack but the fuel gauge is here), the light behind my heater controls still works and dims with the dial but no dash lights. im wondering if i have a tear in my 31 year old printed circuit ribon. does any one know how to solve this, is there another way to get light into these dark spaces or do i have to try to track down a new PCB ?

any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks

Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:07 pm

Sounds like just your bulbs went out. I've had this happen several times. They come off the foil by turning them 90 degrees and pulling them out.

Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:12 pm

both at once? they were working this morning, would both go out at the same time? i had the cluster off this morning to do some work and i fear that i was too rough with the printed board

Mon Apr 16, 2012 5:15 am

I had a similar problem after reinstalling the cluster I removed the 14 pin connector at back, sprayed some electrical contact cleaner (DetoxIT D5) reconnected and lights back on. Pin 1 is for the lightsm maybe the connecter was not inserted straight, who knows?

Mon Apr 16, 2012 5:34 am

Ok I did have the connector off at the rear, I will try to reinsert it with some contact cleaner thanks

Mon Apr 16, 2012 5:36 am

It's an 1981 by the way, would wiring on the circuit board be the same (pin 1 for lights)?

Mon Apr 16, 2012 5:38 am

I have had them both go out at the same time.

Mon Apr 16, 2012 5:48 am

No Pin 1 for lights is for a 85 and up. An 81 I think would be pin 3, but I wouldn't swear by that. You could remove the lights and test them with 12 volts.

Mon Apr 16, 2012 5:54 am

I'm gonna test the lights to rule out the simple fix then try to trace the contact back to the 14 pin connector, see if there is a break or if it's a bad connection in the connector

Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:14 pm

Had problems with mine (also an 81), found it to be at the fitting where the bulbs attached. It seems be very picky about how they are seated.

I did, a different time, get the LED replacements - I think from VanCafe, maybe - very, very nice.

Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:37 pm

Does the light for the fresh air controls work? What about the illumination of the cigarrette lighter? If not, maybe the rehostat section of the headlight switch died.

Sat Apr 21, 2012 5:12 pm

Ya the fresh air controls still light up which makes me think it's in the printed board

Sat Apr 21, 2012 5:24 pm

Check the connector of the ribbon board... I had several of the contacts peel back when I put on the plug the last time. Ended up using superglue to reattach them to the blue ribbon plastic.

Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:44 pm

This is from the Bentley. Application is 1981.

PIN #
1=Vacant, 2=Ground Terminal, 3=Instrument Lights, 4=High Beam Terminal, 5=Ground Terminal, 6=Vacant(air cooed), 7=Clock if not installed, vacant, 8=Fuel Gauge Sender, 9=Positive Terminal, 10=Oil Pressure Switch, 11=EGR or OXS (air cooled, water cooled, glow plug indicator ( 83 diesel only), 12=Vacant (air cooled, water cooled), glow plug indicator 82 diesel only, 13=Alternator Warning Light, 14=Indicator (turn signal).

Here are a few simple things you can do to chase down the problem.
1. Measure and verify you have proper voltage between terminal 2 and 3. You should have about 12 DC. NOTE. This measurement is taken on the plug side and NOT the instrument cluster side.

2. Verify the 14 pin connector is plugged in correctly. It can be plugged in 180 degrees out of turn. I know this for a fact. I did it.

3. Take the instrument cluster out of the vehicle. Carefully remove the 3 light bulbs. Using an ohm meter, check to make sure you have continuity. If you do not have an ohm meter simply hook a 12 volt DC battery to the bulb and see if it lights. If they do, then good. If not then replace the bad bulb/s. By the way this is a great time to replace all the bulbs with LEDs. They look and work far better than the 30+ year old type of bulb.

4. Next let's turn our attention to the ribbon cable you are looking at on the back of the instrument cluster. There were a couple of things wrong with mine. The fix is simple enough. 4 things you will need,
Number 1 is a set of jewelers tweezers (2) try to get some 3C's, Number 2 is a tube of Devcon home Weld-It all purpose adhesive, Number 3 is a pint of Denatured Alcohol, NOT Isophrophyl Alcohol (it has oil in it, not good for what you are doing), Number 4 is a box of Q-Tips. You can get these at Ace Hardware. Cut one end off a couple of the Q-Tips. These will be used for spreading the Devcon.

A flat copper wire is sandwiched between the two layers of plastic. If the two sides of the plastic have seperated they will have to be bonded with the Devcon. Using a Q-Tip dip it in the Alcohol and gently swab off both the insides of both peices of plastic. After they have dried put a small amount of the Devcon on the plastic. Hold both sides together. The Devcon will set up in about 30 seconds. Perform this operation to any areas that have become delaminated.

OK, at this point you are 80% finished. Next turn your attention to the holes in which the bulbs are placed. Is the ribbon nice and flat, kinda like a new sheet of tablet paper? Or is it crumpled up, kinda twisted and all mucked up? If it is crumpled up, kinda twisted and all mucked up you will have to straighten them out.

Here is how you do it.

Take your nice brand new shinny tweezers and carefully unfold the crumpled mess. They get this way by twisting the bulbs in and out. Take your time and do not be in a hurray. After you have them straightened out clean the back side of the plastic with a Q-Tip and some alcohol. Put a little Devcon on the back side of the plastic. Center it over the bulb hole in the instrument panel and push it (holding it) in place. 30 seconds should work.

Test fit the old/new bulbs by by gently twisting them into place. Under no circumstances do not force them. If they are a tight fit remove/trim the tight area. Finally put a very small amount of Dielectric Grease on the two contacts. Put the bulbs in and assemble the instrument panel. These plastic parts are old and brittle (kinda like me) so be careful when bending or twisting them.

You can do it.

Regards,

Michael

Sun Apr 22, 2012 8:48 pm

Syncroincity wrote: Check the connector of the ribbon board... I had several of the contacts peel back when I put on the plug the last time. Ended up using superglue to reattach them to the blue ribbon plastic.

I did this as well with good results.

Sun Apr 22, 2012 10:18 pm

Both my bulbs go out if I touch them. Some fiddling to get them to light. I have not removed the bulbs yet to see if I can improve the contact spot at the bulb, but they give a great chintzy funhouse atmosphere when I drive at night.

So turn the lights on and wiggle the bulbs as your first/fastest test. Mine's not a daily driver so I will get to this soon, but passing it along.

DougM

Tue May 01, 2012 2:12 pm

same exact problem keep posted on the fix 1980

Sun Jun 24, 2012 7:44 am

I also had the speedo and clock/temperature lights quit after removal a nd reinstall. Looks like my pin three is delaminated and needs attention. In continuity testing, I discovered that one node on the bulb cable shows zero ohms to pin3. Surprising part is that the same node shows only 16 ohms to pin 2 (infinity to all other pins). Is this normal? Anybody have the Pinot diagram to this part for an 84 vanagon?

Thanks,
Dave[/img]

Sun Jun 24, 2012 12:24 pm

that flexy blue PC board is a mess - yet another poor design from the VW cost-cutting team

IIRC< someone either made up or offered to make up a wired replacement - you still have the crappy connector to deal with